Field Trip to Puerto de Santa Maria

We just came back from a field trip to Puerto de Santa Maria! Puerto is a town just north of base, larger than Rota. I heard that the Fleet and Family Services Center offered field trips a few times each month to nearby towns, and they provide bus transportation, all for free! So of course I signed up the kids and I to go! Just so you know, you can put carseats on a coach bus. :-)

We drove about 15 minutes to get to the center of Puerto, and the first place to see was the bullfighting arena. This is one of the oldest bull rings in this area, but it was built in 1880. Our guide said it took almost 100 years to complete! They still do bullfights throughout the summer, and use it for ballet and other performances in the off-season. They no longer have a running of the bulls in this area, because it just became too dangerous with too many drunks wandering into the streets. But apparently the reason people used to do it is that they all ran toward the stadium, and once the bulls were in they closed the doors. So those who ran in front got in for free! Those who ran behind the bulls had to pay for tickets. There is also this very anatomically correct statue/fountain in front of the arena. This was Danny's favorite part, because it actually shows the matador fighting the bull. So he kept walking through town looking for more guys fighting bulls.

Next we walked a few blocks to the Cathedral. I was not expecting the High Gothic style! I guess I am used to French cathedrals, built in the very beginning of the Medieval period (1200's). But Spain was still occupied by the Moors at that time, so the Catholic period didn't start until much later. This church was built in the 15th century. Some parts of it were never finished, because they ran out of funds. So the carvings around this door, for example, are incomplete. On the inside, there are numerous chapels dedicated to our Lady, who is always attired like a Queen. They are doing a massive restoration project, so some of the chapels have been restored to their original bright glimmers of gold, whereas other chapels are sooty from centuries of smokey candles. There are still red candles burning in most of the chapels, and we saw several locals there to make their morning prayers. The kids were very interested in the candles, and I realized we never took them to the side chapels in our parish church before, so this was their first time being in a cathedral. Danny immediately said, "Wow, this church is old!" And Sophie thought it was like a castle to Mary.




I am so glad we did our first field trip with a group, because we were the only ones with children, and everyone was extremely welcoming and helpful. Most of us were new to the area, since this was more of a "beginner level" field trip. We met a retired couple who wanted to get their grandchild fix, so they willingly pushed my strolled around most of the morning! Sophie was thrilled to have a surrogate grandmother to talk to, so they chatted away, sang songs together, and had a great time. Danny did an amazing job walking all day! I carried him on my back a few times, and he had to be watched carefully so he didn't wander off into the street, but overall he was a pretty cheery guy. Alex spent the whole trip in the baby carrier, which worked out great. He was happy, I had free hands, and I could bounce him or give him toys or snacks easily.

 Even though I felt like my kids were eating snacks the entire morning, I could tell they were starting to drag a little by 11:30. It was also starting to drizzle a little. Of course, the first day we have seen rain since we got here! But luckily, the group decided to stop at a "bar" which acts as a cafe in the mornings. The kids got to have their first taste of chocolate con churros! The hot chocolate here is extremely rich and thick--almost like hot pudding! Churros are fried dough, not thick like funnel cake, but light and crispy, like a sweet french fry. You dip the churros into the chocolate...

 and enjoy! It is delicious! They both really enjoyed it! Danny was a little upset at first that his was so hot, but once he learned to dip and then let them cool (the chocolate is so thick it doesn't drip off!) he was a happy guy.
 We walked a little farther down a pedestrian/shopping street, until we got to a large panaderia. It was a bakery called the Holy Shepherdess. The kids were enthralled by the elaborate cakes and treats on display. I got them some cookies to nibble while they walked, and some soft bread loaves for our dinner. Can't wait to try them! I certainly fell in love with Parisian bakeries, so I hope the ones in Spain will be just as good. 

 As we walked some more, our guide explained how bullfighting is such an important part of the culture. Matadors are famous and respected, just as some of our most well-known professional sports figures. There are several bars in this town run by retired matadors, and people go for the fame more than for the food or atmosphere. We also saw the courtyard of a former matador's home, which was decorated with some elaborate tile, including these pictures showing different styles of passes to make at the bull. I haven't see a bull fight yet, and I don't think it is very high on our priority list, because most Americans are completely turned off by the blood and gore. But I do realize that the Spanish see it as an art, or a professional skill.

 Towards the end of our trip (when it was starting to rain steadily), we passed the Castillo de San Marco. It's a beautiful castle, and the kids really wanted to go inside, but we didn't have time for that today, so we promised to come back later--hopefully with Daddy! It's s cool that the kids can walk down the street to a castle! I didn't get much history of this castle (I actually missed most of what the tour guide told us because, ummm, 3 kids) but I think that this is where Christopher Columbus first petitioned for money to go on his maiden voyage. He ended up living in Peurto for a little while (we passed his house!) and then in Rota, before going to the Huelva area where he finally got the money. He departed from this town though, so Columbus Day (Oct. 12) is actually a Spanish national holiday. They thought Americans celebrated it on a different day, but we explained that we just celebrate on the closest Monday. :-)

 The final stop was a bodega where the huge barrels of wine and sherry are stored. We did not do a tour or tasting today, but they are offered here. Sherry is a major product in this area, and the locals buy it by the liter in large plastic jugs which they store at home and refill when needed. Danny immediately said the barrels are like what Bilbo Baggins rode in The Hobbit when he was going down the river. Aunt Marie would be so proud! :-) He had fun trying to lift the heavy barrels. We were all getting a little wet and tired, so it was nice to get out of the rain before our last little trek to the bus!

Overall, it was a stupendous visit! It's wonderful that all of this is in the next town over, just a few minutes outside the gate! Peurto is the same town I went to lunch in the other day, but I was in a suburb called Peurto Sherry. Today we were in the downtown area. I am not sure I could find my way around alone without a map, but at least now I know what I am looking for, and we have tons of reasons to go back! Ole!