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Friday, April 26, 2013

Top Tapas competition

There is a new food competition on base, and you probably know by now that my husband and I love foodie experiences, so we jumped at the chance to attend the Top Tapas competition earlier this week. MWR is going to host tapas competitions once per quarter, and this was the first event. This month, the competitors were hotels in Rota. Future competitions may be between ventas, or even the little churicha stands by the beaches. At each competition, participants will sample tapas from 4 similar competitors. Then there is a 3-course dinner, including free wine, sherry, and dessert. At the end of the evening, the winner is announced and awarded with a large trophy to display in their restaurant. The competition is held here on base, at La Plaza, but it is an excellent way to explore some of the opportunities that are available off-base. We had a wonderful evening, made some new friends, and of course got to eat plenty of delicious food-- all at a reasonable price! We were very impressed and will definitely attend the competition next quarter.

In case you are not familiar with 'tapas,' they are basically a Spanish appetizer. They are little bites, designed to accompany a glass of wine or sherry at a tapas bar, which is a casual--often tiny--restaurant where you nibble your tapas while standing at the bar. The ones displayed below are rather high-class tapas. Typically, they are served more casually, on napkins or toothpicks. The word 'tapas' means lid, or covering, and the belief is that tapas were originally pieces of bread placed on top of beer, to keep the flies away. Then they started putting food and seasoning on the pieces of bread, and now tapas have evolved into culinary works of art. I am sure you are all drooling and eager to hear about some of the tapas that were offered. I am here to indulge you! In fact, I even have a recipe for the one that was our favorite! So if you want to experience Spanish food vicariously through me... read on.

I will begin with our least favorite. These are fried chicken wraps, filled with ham and olives, in a mushroom sauce,  and accompanied by mashed potatoes. They were prepared by the chef from the Hotel Caribe, in Rota. It sounds and looks quite good, but honestly it was a disappointment. The seasoning was incredibly lacking and we all found the dish quite bland. The chicken looked like fried eggrolls, at first, but it was actually plain chicken pieces, pounded thin, and rolled up with the ham and olive. This gave it a strange rubbery texture, which combined with the lack of salt or flavor, made it a very mediocre dish. We all felt a little bit guilty, like the judges from 'Chopped' or some other cooking show, when we declared it, "tough, under-seasoned, and unpleasant."

The next up was the tapas prepared by the Hotel Playa de la Luz, one of the largest hotels on the Rota boardwalk. These are 'Tiny Shrimp Omelettes,' or fried shrimp cakes, with sides of lettuce and potato fries. It's not the cakes that are 'tiny,' it's the shrimp! The chef explained that they are not baby shrimp, they are actually fully grown shrimp, of a variety that only grows to be a few centimeters long. You can see the whole shrimp if you look closely. The flavor was good and very simple--just shrimp, onion, and parsley. Many tapas around here are fried and use seafood, so this felt very traditional Spanish, and had a good flavor. But, it was also a little too simple and forgettable to stand up to the competition.   

The next one really stood out. This little beauty was created by Club Elba in Costa Ballena (just north of Rota). I don't even know what to call it, because there was an amazing cacophony of flavors on this little plate! The photo doesn't even do it justice. On the bottom was a shrimp and avocado cake, topped with the crispy cracker, which was then topped with a light, savory squeeze of what tasted like creme fraiche, as well as lime zest and toasted celery grating. On the side, there were some bean sprouts that added a little texture, and 4 tiny dots of caramel and spiced mayonnaise. It was delicious and unique, and I commented to our table that I would eat a whole meal with those flavors. However, several people decided that all the flavors were a little too conflicting and confusing. It tasted like so many different things at once that some of the flavors competed with each other. Also, since the bottom layer was soft and the cracker stacked in the center was crispy, it was difficult to eat and became smashed when you attempted to eat it with a fork. Again, we felt like the judges on Iron Chef, who are offered a dish that is well presented and tasty, but still aren't sure what to make of it. 

I have saved the best for last. This 'Farmer's Bread with Iberian Ham and Salomorejo' was made by the Hotel Duque de Najera, at the boardwalk point near Rota's lighthouse. Iberian ham is the higher quality jamon, which is dried ham. Salomerejo is a traditional tomato-garlic sauce, which is made with the same ingredients as gazpacho, but a little thicker.  The bread was fresh and soft, and topped with a drizzle of olive oil. The distinct taste of Iberian ham paired wonderfully with the creamy, garlicky salomerejo. Every bite was delicious, flavorful, and full of all Spain's traditional cooking ingredients. Everyone at our table loved this dish and was impressed that one chef prepared all 100 plates on his own. We were rooting for him to win.

After a delicious dinner of salad, pot roast, and ice cream, it was announced that the winner was...

the fancy shrimp/avocado/cracker/creme fraiche/lime/caramel tapas from Club Elba in Costa Ballena! (pictured 2nd from right, just before the announcement was made).

We were a little disappointed that our first choice wasn't the winner, but we could certainly understand why his dish gained so many votes. It was very creative, very flavorful, and in some ways a cut above the rest. Not only did he win a huge trophy to display in his restaurant, but he will also be the one to design the 3-course dinner menu that will be served during the next tapas competition. His flavors were very light, citrus-y, sweet, and delectable, so I for one am sure I will enjoy that dinner. I look forward to the next round of Top Tapas!

And for your added enjoyment, here is the recipe for our favorite:
Farmer's Bread with Iberian Ham and Salomerejo. (makes 1 tapas serving)
2 slices fresh bread
50 grams (1.7 oz) tomatoes, probably 2 thick slices
5 grams (.1 oz) garlic, probably 1 clove
olive oil (20 grams or .7 ounces)
salt (pinch)
stale bread (25 grams or .88 oz)
Iberian ham (50 grams or 1.76 ounces), 2 thin slices

Toast the bread. Prepare the salomerejo by putting tomatoes, garlic, stale bread, and olive oil in a food processor until smooth. Spread the salomerejo on the bread. Place the Iberian ham on top, then sprinkle with salt and olive oil. Enjoy!







Friday, April 19, 2013

Sunny Spanish Beaches... and a little culture shock

Summer has arrived in Southern Spain! I feel a little sorry for my East Coast family and friends who are just recently thawing out from a snowy winter. But here, it is in the 70's and sometimes 80's during the day now. The rainy season has ended, and every day is sunny and dry with clear blue skies. It's perfect weather for... the BEACH!

The kids are still in school, but only in the mornings, so on Wednesday we planned to join some friends and make a short trip to the beach after school. We are truly spoiled here--there are so many beautiful beaches to choose from! Apparently, I went to a different one than my friends, but no worries--the kids and I had a wonderful time! It was my first time at the beach not holding a baby, and I was so happy and relaxed watching the children play at the water's edge. I love the Puerto Sherry beach because it is flanked by beautiful restaurants on one side...

And an ancient wall on the other. The wall has broken and crumbled in some area, due to erosion, but I believe it is part of a Moorish building, which makes it at least 800 years old! It is so amazing to me that we can play and soak up the sun in the shadow of so much history.The kids, of course, were oblivious to their historic surroundings, but I didn't mind. In fact, it is probably a good thing that the kids are a bit oblivious to what is going on around them...
Because this--like most Spanish beaches--is a topless beach. And boy did I see some tops! Or rather, a lack thereof. The Spanish are certainly relaxed about letting it all hang out. Even though I was aware of this cultural difference, it is still a little shocking to see it in person. Young, old, slender, fat, it didn't matter. The sun was out, so tops were off. And even though everyone on this beach was wearing some kind of bottom (there are some completely nude beaches here) I was still surprised by the amount of butt cheeks everywhere. Yep, almost every suit is a thong. Except for the men, of course, who wear equally disturbing and tight Speedo bottoms, regardless of age or weight. I was a little shocked when we first arrived, not only by the clothing, but by the fact that there were so many people on the beach! We have been to those restaurants a few times throughout the winter, and only saw a handful of people and dogs on the sand. On this Wednesday in April, at 1 PM, there were probably 200 people sitting, eating, and laying out to soak up the sun. I guess the beach is a popular destination for lunch and siesta, even this early in the season! It wasn't crowded at all, but I can only imagine what July will be like here.

As usual, Americans stand out. My children--with a sun hat on the baby, a t-shirt and baggy trunks on the 3 year old, and sunglasses on all of them--certainly got some attention. It could have been because of their delightful squeals and laughter as they ran back and forth out of the freezing water. But I assume it was because of their fair skin and the fact that they were wearing clothes. Spanish children, apparently, go to the beach completely naked. I saw little boys and girls playing in the sand, and splashing in the water--nude--and this is completely normal. I haven't even gotten a swim suit for myself this year, so even in shorts and a tank top, I was the most clothed person on the beach. 
The nudity doesn't bother me. I know it is part of their culture, and once I got past my initial wide-eyed stare (from behind sunglasses!), I could carry on politely. I was only uncomfortable because I didn't want to have a discussion right then and there if my children started asking questions... or if my children wanted to take off their own clothes. I wouldn't care from a moral standpoint if my children played naked. They are children, and they are innocent. As long as their actions aren't attracting pedophylic stares, I wouldn't mind. However, the reason I put so much clothing and sunscreen on my children is for medical, not moral reasons. We are of Irish decent, and burn easily. The Spanish sun is strong, and skin cancer is high here. Especially this early in the season, when we are just starting to spend more time outside, they need gradual sun exposure. The Spanish, with their olive complexions, already look tan to me. They don't burn as easily, and apparently don't care much about skin cancer, even though it is rampant in their population. So, for at least a little while, we will continue to suit up and enjoy the Spanish sun and beaches! Because it will be summer for the next 6 months here! :-)







Sunday, April 7, 2013

All about sherry

We happen to live in the "sherry triangle" region of Spain, which is famous for the production of sherry wines. Sherry is unique in the way it is harvested, fermented, and aged. There are a variety of sherries, ranging from light to dark, bitter to sweet. Some pair well with cheese and nuts, others with seafood, and some can even be poured over ice cream! Sherry has a distinct flavor, which most agree is an acquired taste. I confess that I have not quite acquired it yet. I have had some sherries that are smooth and delicious, while others are just harsh and bitter to my palate. Nevertheless, here are some of the ways that sherry making is unique:

Sherry has been made in this region since the Phonecian times, before the Roman Empire! Of course the process was different then, but the region became known to the Romans because of the unique alcohol being produced here. Even during the Moorish period (600- 1492), the Muslim Moors did not drink sherry, but introduced distillation and used it for medicinal purposes. The nearby town of Jerez (pronounced Her-eth) means 'sherry' and the substance has been continually made here for several thousand years.

Dry sherries are made from Palomino grapes, which are usually harvested at the beginning of September. The grapes are pressed into 'must'. The 1st pressing, from minimal pressure, is used to make the lighter Manzanilla and Fino sherries, which will fermented to 15% alcohol content. The 2nd pressing makes the richer Oloroso sherry, which is fermented to 17%. Sweet sherries are made from Moscatel and Pedro Ximenez grapes, which are actually dried in the sun, which raises the sugar content and gives the sherry a strong raisin-y flavor. The sweet sherries are only partially fermented, so they can maintain their sweetness.





Sherry is aged differently from wine. It goes through biological aging, where the yeast forms a solid layer called 'flor' or a floral veil, that protects the sherry from oxidization and also interacts with the sherry. Lighter colored sherries have a slightly lower alcohol content that allows the flor to remain intact. darker color sherries have a higher alcohol content, which kills the flor and allows some oxidization, which gives them their darker color. The sherry is aged in huge oak barrels, called botas, which are not completely filled, and the valve on top is left open to let air in. To serve the sherry, a special instrument called a 'venencia' is used. It is so slender that it will not disrupt the flor, but requires a skilled practiced hand to pour it into tiny sherry glasses.




















Bodegas are the buildings where sherry is aged, stored, and sold. Some are large and well-known, like Tio Peppe or Osborne. Others are quite small. But all have rows of barrels stacked in 2 or 3 layers, called a solera. Usually not more than 3 layers, because the bottom barrels would not be able to bear more weight. During aging, the sherry is rotated from the top layer (the younger sherries) to the lower layers (older sherries), and mixed to achieve a balanced flavor. So sherry bottles do not generally have a particular age or year, since they contain products from a variety of years in one bottle. Sherry is usually served after several years, but some rare sherry is 20 years old, and there is a small controlled quantity that is at least 30 years old.



Disclaimer: the above photos and opinions are mine, but most of the facts are gleaned from articles written by Virginia Miller and published in the Coastline newspaper.

Friday, April 5, 2013

Chef Angel Leon's seafood magic

Last week we had an amazing opportunity to attend a cooking presentation by one of Spain's top chefs: Angel Leon. The base is hosting a series of "Foodie Tours" to sample Spanish specialties, and it kicked off with an evening of food and sherry, prepared by Angel Leon and his staff from Aponiente. Of course my husband and I, amateur foodies, jumped at the chance to attend. His staff prepared and plated food in their "kitchen stadium" while he showed us a PowerPoint demonstrating the philosophy behind his cooking. He presented in Spanish, with an American translator.

 I had heard that Angel Leon was a seafood specialist, but I had no idea that there was so much science and philosophy behind his cuisine. He was born and raised in this area, Cadiz, and believes in showcasing the seafood that is caught locally. In fact, he opened his flagship restaurant not in Madrid or New York, as he could have, but instead right in El Puerto de Santa Maria, the town just outside base, because that is where his cuisine experience is rooted. (And because Spaniards are ridiculously faithful to their home province!)

His entire menu is seafood, because he has found ways to replace any part of a pig, sheep, or cow with different varieties of sea life.   But not just famous, well-known fish. Instead, he prefers to find creative ways to use fish that are often rejected because they are not widely recognized at market. Or he uses unique ingredients--like olive pits--to impart a smoky, unusual flavor to the fish. His anchovies smoked over olive pit flames were delicious!
So, for example, he makes fish sausage, and a fish pate that tastes just like chorizo with the smoked pimenton flavor. They were different from anything I have ever tasted, and had a strong fishy flavor, but once you accepted that, the food was delicious!

His philosophy is to use the entire ocean food chain, beginning with plankton. So he served us plankton risotto, which is the one dish that is never taken off his menu. It was smooth, tasty, perfectly rich... and green. He said that most people complain that plankton tastes like fish, when, in reality, it is fish that tastes like plankton. Plankton is apparently a great source of oils, vitamins, and nutrients, but his restaurant is the only one in the world that serves it! He learned to grow his own plankton in a laboratory because it is impossible to harvest enough to cook with.

The final picture, above, is a raw crab leg marinated in beet juice. I enjoy sushi, so have no aversion to raw fish, but this was much more tender, juicy, and flavorful than any sushi I have had. Even the green leaf decoration was carefully selected to match the beet flavor-- it is a local vegetable with a high acidity, almost citrus-like. When eaten after the crab, it was a fresh burst of flavor that cleansed the palate. Very enjoyable!

We had a wonderful time and enjoyed trying food that is certainly outside our typical fare. It was very interesting to learn about Angel Leon's philosophy and some of his seafood magic tricks. And it was certainly enjoyable that different sherries were served with each course. But more about sherry in my next post... :-)