Cordoba Part 2: the Castle of the Christian Kings

The Alcazar in Cordoba was the palace of King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella, after the Catholic reconquest of Cordoba. There was a former Visigoth fortress on the site, but construction on the current palace structure began in 1328. Over the years, it was used as a fortress and a prison. While excavations are underway in some areas, the castle itself has not been fully restored. But the gardens are the real draw for visitors. One can spend at least an hour wandering through the carefully organized gardens, with cultivated flower beds and gorgeous fountains.

Entrance fee is 8 Euro for adults. The Alcazar is open from 10am-3pm, and again from 5-7pm. Admission is FREE on Wednesdays. Bring some water, because the gardens can get quite sunny, and Cordoba in general is hot in the spring and summer months. 

The gardens of the Alcazar are a beautiful example of Moorish and Spanish design. The Moors always built central fountains to cool their patios and gardens, and also to provide the delightful sound of splashing water. These gardens were more impressive than those at the Alcazar in Seville because of the elaborate planning of irrigation. The major pools and fountains were laid out in a stepped pattern, each level slightly lower than the previous, so that water could flow downhill to feed each area. The garden has multiple pools, each surrounded by different colors of flowers, with each flower bed being irrigated through tubes in the ground.

Where does all the water come from? Even before the Christian kings built the Alcazar, the Moors has developed the ability to irrigate by using water wheels on the nearby Guadalquivir River. This water wheel, near the Roman bridge, is a replica of the ones used during Moorish times. At first, we thought it was used to grind olives or wheat, but closer inspection reveals that the buckets are designed to lift the water up, not to push it around. While there were other wheels designed for grinding, this particular one was used for irrigation, to pump water into the thirsty gardens of the Alcazar. The Moors had also developed the system of cisterns and trenches to move water throughout the garden. The result is a lush, cooling paradise in the middle of a rather hot, dry land. I don't know if the Christian kings had much water pressure in their fountains, but on the day we visited, there was a computer set up near one of the main pools, and the fountains put on a show with the water splashing at incredible heights, and alternatively 'dancing' higher and lower. It was quite impressive, and the kids enjoyed it.

In case you are wondering whether palace gardens are a suitable place to take small children, I assure you they had a great time watching the fountains splash, running through the rows of hedges and flowers, and climbing on the castle walls. Of course they got a little hot and tired, but we are always prepared for that with juice and snacks. This particular garden had several interesting details that they enjoyed. At the beginning, there were coy in the pond, and they came back to that several times just to sit for a few minutes and watch the fish. Later in the garden, one of the cyprus hedges was whimsically trimmed into a tree house, with windows, imitation stairs, and an area to hide inside. Finally, they enjoyed the tile designs of sea monsters in one of the pools, since my Dad (who was visiting and traveling with us) had been telling them stories about the 'Monster in the Pond.' Danny got very excited and exclaimed, "Look guys, I found the Monster in the Pond!" 

Our whole family enjoyed visiting the Alcazar, and the admission fee is well worth the opportunity to stroll through the gardens and pick your own favorite area. This tranquil pool, surrounded by blue flowers and tall, slender cyprus trees, was one of my favorites.

Although the castle itself is not nearly as impressive as the glittering Alcazar in Seville, it is still possible to tour some of the rooms, including the chapel, towers, and the castle walls. Climbing to the top of the Tower of Lions provides wonderful views of the remains of the fortress. You can look out over the gardens, or look down to the castle wall below. At the other end of the wall is the famous Inquisition tower, which was used as a prison during the Spanish Inquisition. In fact, the Alcazar became the headquarters of the Inquisition in 1482. Visitors can enter one of the tower rooms and see the high, narrow window slits, and the bolts in the wall that held chains and prisoners. Boabdil, the last Moorish King of Granada, was a prisoner here. When he refused to surrender the city of Granada, Ferdinand and Isabel attacked it, and successfully conquered the city in 1492.

If that date sounds familiar to Americans, it's because 1492 is when Columbus discovered the Americas. He had spent several years petitioning the monarchs of various European courts, but no one was willing to finance his quest. After King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella defeated the Moors at Granada in 1492, they were flush with war winnings and low on enemies, so they met with Columbus at Cordoba's Alcazar to commission him for his first voyage. This statue in the palace gardens commemorates that event.

Final note about Cordoba: the city is also famous for its Festival of the Patios, which occurs every May. We were visiting just after this event, so we did not get to enter any private patios and see the amazing blooms and tile decorations. But there are numerous patio-style restaurants in the area around the Mezquita and the Alcazar where tourists can enjoy shade, refreshments, and typical Cordoban flowers and decor. We stopped for lunch in one such place,and got to introduce my parents to such Spanish essentials as gazpacho, grilled swordfish, and tuna pizza. I'm so glad we got to experience this beautiful city with them. We had a wonderful visit!

Cordoba Part 1: The Mezquita Mosque and cathedral

Cordoba, (pronounced with the emphasis on the first syllable) in Southern Spain is the capital of the Cordoba province, and was formerly the Muslim capital of the caliphate, when the Moors were in control of central Spain. The Moors exported wine and oil from Spain, just as the Romans had done before them. The city is landlocked between 2 major mountain ranges that run from East to West. But it is strategically located on the Guadalquivir River, which runs westward through Seville and to the Atlantic Ocean. During the peak of Moorish rule, Cordoba was a rival to Baghdad in wealth and culture. In the 10th century, it was one of the most populated cities of Europe, with a population of almost 1 million, a flourishing library and a famous university in the middle of the 'Dark Ages.'And the crown jewel of this wealthy city was the Great Mosque, or Mezquita.

Admission fee to the Mezquita is 8 Euros per person. It is FREE in the mornings from 8-9:30am. Morning Mass is celebrated daily at 9:30, so admittance is not permitted between 9:30 and 10am, and then you can enter the mosque area, but must wait for Mass to finish before entering the Cathedral. 

In 784, under the leadership of the caliph Abd-al Rahman, construction began on a great Mosque, that was built on the site of an old Visigoth church. The mosque was originally built in honor of his wife, and was oriented facing towards Mecca. The most striking feature is the numerous rows of red and white arches. In the original part of the mosque, these are made of brick and stone in alternating bands, and are remnants of the original Visigoth church. The moors stacked the Visigoth arches in a double layer to achieve the desired height. The rows of columns and arches are said to imitate palm and date trees in the middle of a desert oasis. The original design was a building full of light, but later renovations (including the construction of a Christian cathedral in the center of the structure) have made it rather dim and hushed in the interior.

 

Later Muslim successors expanded on the plan and layout of the mosque in every direction. In the newer sections, instead of using brick and stone, they simply painted the bands onto the arches. The layout of the mosque and some of the decoration are said to imitate the Great Mosque of Damascus. The red and white stripes imitate the interior of the Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem. The Muslim caliphs had wealth and power to import the best artisans and the finest supplies for the construction of the Mosque. This extravagance is most evident in the area called the Mihrab, which is the prayer 'niche' (more like a large area) in the Eastern wall which is aligned with Mecca. From the Mihrab, the imam would call Muslims to prayer, and read from the Koran. The area is decorated with solid gold tiles, and designed so that the reader's voice will carry out into the mosque to his audience.

When the Christians re-conquered Cordoba in 1236, the mosque was designated as a Christian church. By the 14th century, construction began on a Renaissance cathedral that literally rises out of the center of the mosque. To build the cathedral, numerous columns and arches were destroyed, and those that remained were decorated with crosses and Christian bas-relief sculptures. The conversion of the building probably saved it from destruction during the Inquisition, when many other mosques were destroyed. The cathedral is rather beautiful, and full of light, but it is in definite contrast to the rest of the building in which it is located. In fact, even though the Christian king Charles V gave permission for the cathedral's construction, he later commented upon seeing it, "you have taken something unique in all the world, and destroyed it to build something which could be found in any city."

I have to say my sentiments were similar. I am Catholic, and expected to like the cathedral. It is indeed pretty, but nothing really spectacular. The altar is pictured at left, and the choir at right. There is some fine craftsmanship, but it does seem very much in contrast to the surrounding building.




In fact, the contrast is not only architectural and religious, but it is still going on today. The Mezquita is officially designated as a Catholic place of worship. Mass is held there daily (in the cathedral) but Muslims are not allowed to pray on the premises. Islamic groups have been petitioning the Spanish government to have this changed, since the Mihrab prayer niche is still preserved, but so far the government insists that two religious groups cannot share the same building. It does feel a little bit of a shame that the Muslims who were tolerant of Christianity during their rule of Spain were so oppressed during the subsequent Inquisition that they were forcibly removed from the country, killed, or forced to convert. And now the Christians cannot be as tolerant during their rule. The Moors contributed greatly to Spanish architecture, science, medicine, and art during their Golden Age, and it is unfortunate that their accomplishments were ignored and almost wiped out.


Because really, who is to say which is a more fitting tribute to God:  a Renaissance ceiling, or a star-studded tile mosaic? A bell tower or a minaret?

The Mezquita is still a jewel of the city of Cordoba and is not to be missed. It takes about 3.5 hours to get to Cordoba from Rota, so if you decide to spend the night, then stayed tuned for Cordoba Part 2: The Palace of the Christian Kings!

Sevilla Part 3: Plaza d'Espana and Archaeology Museum

Think, for a moment, about the year 1929. In America, the 'Roaring 20's,' Prohibition, and gangsters were all coming to an end, and we were about to plunge into the Great Depression. In Europe, the Depressions that followed WWI (and led to WWII) were still raging in some countries, including Spain. Andalusia, in particular, suffered from poverty and joblessness. To assuage this economic situation and bring trade into the region, Spain organized the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition to be held in Sevilla. And to host such an international event, they had to construct a park and permanent pavilions in the Parque Maria Luisa, which the Princess of that name had donated to the city in 1893. What remains is arguably the most gorgeous part of Sevilla: the Plaza d'Espana.

 The Plaza, pictured in panoramic above, is a semi-circular building with tall towers at either end, enclosing a crescent-shaped pond with a plaza in the center. And a fountain, of course. The entire area is filled with tile work and hand-painted ceramics, so from handrails to lamp posts, everything here is a work of art. This is a wonderful place to take visitors and let them think, 'WOW, Spain is gorgeous!' And it's free and open to the public. I had read about the Plaza, even seen some pictures from friends, and still had no idea how beautiful and elegant it is.

For example, the guidebooks mention the 'benches' that surround the Plaza and represent Spain's provinces. Well, if by bench, you mean the enormous hand-painted tiles with custom paintings, then yes, each province has its own 'bench.' They are placed side by side around the entire semi-circle, in alphabetical order. Each province has a unique picture, and a map showing where in Spain it is located. There are 50 benches, one for each province, including the Canary Islands. It is fun to take some time and study each one, but beware of gypsies hawking their wares all around!

The Plaza d'Espana is surrounded by the Parque Maria Luisa, which is a beautiful leafy area that--to me--is like a much classier version of Central Park. From the Plaza, you can take a carriage ride from one of the many that line up there, or you can just stroll the shaded gravel boulevards and enjoy the garden fountains, statues, and flowers. There are also large bicycles for rent that will seat a family of 4 on their wide bench seats. We did not have the kids with us at the time, but I would go back just to spend an afternoon biking with them and enjoying the scenery.

Parking tip: On weekends, you can actually park directly behind the Plaza d'Espana on the streets that are marked for the University. Parking is available for up to 24 hours, and costs .20 Euro cents per hour, so we left the car there all day, and walked to the Cathedral, Alcazar, and other sites just a few minutes away. There is also underground parking a few blocks closer to the Cathedral, but it is much more expensive.

 If you wander to the South East of the Parque Maria Luisa, you will see some of the other pavilions that were constructed for the 1929 Exposition. They have since been converted into museums, but the buildings themselves are quite interesting. We were headed to the Archaeology Museum, which we really enjoyed. Admission is FREE to EU citizens (simply show your Spanish driver's license). The museum has several exhibits from Spain's pre-historic times, and from the Phoenician civilization, but of course the 'cool stuff' is from the Roman period. There are numerous mosaics, statues, and ruins from the Roman site of Italica, just outside Sevilla, including this larger-than-life statue and pillars from the Temple of Diana. The museum is 3 stories, but with most exhibits on the 2 main floors. The English guide pamphlet had useful information about each room, but the rest of the descriptions were in Spanish, so bring a dictionary to get the most of your visit.

There are also some very interesting artifacts from the period when the Moors controlled Sevilla (roughly 800's- 1200's). For the most part, the Moorish conquest was peaceful: Muslims, Jews, and Christians co-existed in most major Spanish cities during this time. This pillar, covered in Arabic and Moorish architecture, discusses the tolerance for Christians and how they would be allowed to continue to practice their religion. Obviously, the Christians did not return the favor when they re-conquer Spain and held the Inquisition! A lot of Moorish artifacts were destroyed during the re-conquest, but I find this period very intriguing, and like to learn about it.








The Archaeology Museum does not have much from the Renaissance, or more 'modern' time periods, unless you count the stone caskets of several knights, noblemen, and bishops on the porch outside.

A final word about Sevilla: tapas! I have written about tapas before, which are basically Spanish appetizers, or a small plate with just a few bites of flavorful food. But when you are eating in Sevilla, this is the way to do it! You will see plenty of cafes, restaurants, and bars all advertising their tapas of the day. It is a great way to break up a long day of sightseeing with a small salad, some tasty meat and cheese, and a cool drink. Plus, you can pretend to eat like a hobbit-- enjoy 11sies, lunch, second lunch, and teatime. Each dish will make you want to have just one more drink, and with that drink you'll want to order another dish... so go ahead and point to some unknown items on the menu, and see what delicious bites they bring you. 

Average cost per tapa in Sevilla appears to be about 3 Euro. More at some upscale places, but you should be able to get them around 3 Euro at the average streetside cafe. Mucho gusto! :-)

Sevilla Part 2: the Real Alcazar and gardens

One of the most stunning buildings in Sevilla, and possibly in Spain, is the Real Alcazar, or royal palace. Note: Real is actually pronounced 'Ray-al' and it means Royal, in Spanish. Alcazar has an accent on the 2nd a, meaning it is pronounced 'al-CA-zar' but I don't know how to make the accents on my computer.

It is one of the oldest castles still in use in Europe, since the upper level is still used by the Royal Family when they are in town. It is also one of the best surviving examples of the Mudejar style of architecture, which is the Moorish style of elaborate carvings and inscriptions in tile work and stucco. Pictured at left is the Courtyard of the Maidens (El Patio de las Doncellas), with its graceful Moorish arches, and detailed stucco work. But every single door and window in the palace is a unique work of art.

Fans of the TV show "Game of Thrones" may recognize the palace from scenes of the Dornish Water Palace in Season 5. The show came to Sevilla and filmed on site in Fall 2014.

 

The palace site was originally a Moorish fort, but in 1364 the Christian King Pedro I ordered the construction of the royal residence that is there today. The finest craftsmen of Toledo and Granada were enlisted to make a palace that amazes and glitters at every turn. The tiles at right show Islamic inscriptions, as well as the castle and lion figures, which represent Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand, and are present throughout the castle. We were completely unprepared for the breathtaking intricate artwork. At every doorway we said, "Oh wow!" and at every courtyard we just sighed in amazement. 

The Real Alcazar was, in my opinion, the most outstanding sight in Sevilla, and I would certainly take visitors to see it.

Entrance fee: 8.50 Euro per adult

Summer Hours: 9:30am- 7pm, Tuesday-Saturday, closes at 5 pm Sundays

Winter Hours (Oct-March): 9:30am- 5pm Tuesday-Saturday, closes at 1:30 pm Sunday

 Several important marriages occurred here, as well as several important births. It also became the central point through which all trade with the New World was conducted, and Isabella met with Columbus in the chapel here. The ceilings throughout the palace were designed to recognize some of these momentous events, and each one is unique. You are continually looking up at bright geometric designs, carved wood inlaid with gold, and gorgeous symbols. But the most impressive ceiling is certainly the one in the throne room. This dome, directly over the king's throne, is carved wood inlaid with pure gold. The stars represent the heavens, and demonstrate that none but God is higher than the king. The throne room and adjacent Hall of Ambassadors are made to impress visitors to the court of Spain. The Peacock Doorway, pictured here, is what ambassadors would pass through to enter the throne room. The triple horseshoe arches are used throughout the palace, and are typical Islamic style. Every surface is covered in gold or azuletes (blue tiles). It is interesting to see a Christian palace built by Islamic artisans, but the result is truly amazing.

After the splendor of the palace, the gardens are a refreshing respite. Of course, most of the palace is open-air and the complex is interwoven with spacious cooling courtyards. But the actual gardens are behind the Alcazar, and contain several pleasant paths going to various fountains, pools, and outlaying structures. They are well-maintained, and have some poetic verses and statuary scattered throughout. At left is the pond you see upon entering the gardens. It was originally a Cistern, used to collect rainwater from the roofs. The rain spout still works, and you can see the water on the left side of the picture. But it has now been modified into a still pond stocked with fish. 

I think our favorite area was this walkway, where Cyprus trees have been trained into arches to provide ornamental shade. The Spanish gardens are very structured, geometric, and beautiful. It is easy to picture the women of the Court in the 1400's spending their mornings or evenings there, enjoying the splash of the fountain and the cool breezes. And perhaps that is why this and other palace sites will continue to be preserved as witnesses to the Golden Age of Spanish history.

 

Seville Part 1: the Cathedral and Giralda

We recently had the opportunity to visit the city of Seville... without children! We did a baby-sitting exchange with our neighbor, so that each couple was able to do some child-free traveling. We had an amazing day, and were able to see so much more than we ever would with tired cranky little ones tagging along. We enjoyed the Plaza d'Espana, the Archaeology Museum, the Cathedral, and the Alcazar Palace... as well as delicious tapas and drinks! So I actually have to break Seville into several blog posts to do it justice. First up is what was, for me, the focus of the trip-- the Cathedral. 

Entry fee to Cathedral, which includes access to Giralda, Treasury, etc: 8 Euro per person 

Seville's cathedral, like many in Spain, is built on the site of a former mosque. Most of the mosque was destroyed in an earthquake before the Christian site was constructed, although the Orange Courtyard remains essentially the same, you can still recognize the Moorish architecture in the domes of the building and the arches and windows. And of course, the famous Giralda bell tower is the former minaret of the mosque. The Giralda was added onto and re-decorated in several stages, but it is clearly the minaret that used to call Muslims to worship.

 

The cathedral was constructed between 1402 and 1506. During that time, Spain discovered the New World and enjoyed its Golden Age, and most of the gold from the New World flowed through the city of Seville. The cathedral was intended to be a display of wealth and beauty that would be considered almost crazy. When it was completed, it replaced the Hagia Sophia in Turkey as the largest cathedral in the world.  The nave (main aisle) is the longest in Spain, and the 3rd largest in the world. The ceilings are high (42 meters) intricately carved and decorated. The building is fairly dark inside, due to very few stained glass windows. It also has a somewhat complicated design, since it is laid out in the shape of a cross, and gives the impression of being as wide as it is long. There are 80 chapels, all with their own theme and unique artwork! The picture here shows the view down just one side aisle.

 Inside, there are numerous works of art, ridiculously ornate carvings, and an entire chapel covered in gold. There were so many details to catch our attention, but I will highlight just two here: the ornate altarpiece behind the choir, and the tomb of Christopher Columbus. The altarpiece covers the entire back of the choir area, and uses various colors of marble with carvings, bas-relief, and paintings depicting scenes from the life of Christ. Apparently it was the life's work of one artist: Pierre Dancart. 

Columbus's tomb is actually carried by 4 figures, wearing the lion heraldry of King Ferdinand and the Castle symbol of Queen Isabella. Although he died in somewhat a state of disgrace, having been rejected by the Caribbean islands as an inhumane governor, Christopher Columbus is still a hero in Spanish history because he obviously discovered the Americas and brought enormous wealth to Spain. During the Golden Age, Seville was the economic capital of Spain, and all imports from the New World were sent directly upriver to this inland city. The lion and castle images are all over the city, and throughout the Cathedral as well.

If you climb the Giralda (which we did!) you will have spectacular views of the city and the Cathedral itself. The inside of the bell tower is actually filled with a series of ramps (about 32 of them) which make for a somewhat breath-taking and crowded climb. You see different aspects of the Cathedral from each side of the Giralda. From this angle, the cross layout is clear, even though from the street it looks like one enormously long building. However, the dome is not where you expect it--in the center. Instead, the main dome is off to the side of the Giralda. The dome collapsed almost immediately after the church was constructed, and then again after the Earthquake of 1888. 

Looking down into the Orange Courtyard from the Giralda, you can see the Moorish arches that surround this part of the complex. The trees provide shade and fragrance, which were essential elements to Moorish patios, and there are several small fountains among them to provide additional coolness and the refreshing sound of water. The lines you see on the pavement are in fact small irrigation trenches that run to every tree. It is so interesting to see Muslim influence on such an impressive Cathedral. But it is a beautiful structure, and certainly worth a visit! I hope you get to see it sometime soon!