Cordoba Part 2: the Castle of the Christian Kings

The Alcazar in Cordoba was the palace of King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella, after the Catholic reconquest of Cordoba. There was a former Visigoth fortress on the site, but construction on the current palace structure began in 1328. Over the years, it was used as a fortress and a prison. While excavations are underway in some areas, the castle itself has not been fully restored. But the gardens are the real draw for visitors. One can spend at least an hour wandering through the carefully organized gardens, with cultivated flower beds and gorgeous fountains.

Entrance fee is 8 Euro for adults. The Alcazar is open from 10am-3pm, and again from 5-7pm. Admission is FREE on Wednesdays. Bring some water, because the gardens can get quite sunny, and Cordoba in general is hot in the spring and summer months. 

The gardens of the Alcazar are a beautiful example of Moorish and Spanish design. The Moors always built central fountains to cool their patios and gardens, and also to provide the delightful sound of splashing water. These gardens were more impressive than those at the Alcazar in Seville because of the elaborate planning of irrigation. The major pools and fountains were laid out in a stepped pattern, each level slightly lower than the previous, so that water could flow downhill to feed each area. The garden has multiple pools, each surrounded by different colors of flowers, with each flower bed being irrigated through tubes in the ground.

Where does all the water come from? Even before the Christian kings built the Alcazar, the Moors has developed the ability to irrigate by using water wheels on the nearby Guadalquivir River. This water wheel, near the Roman bridge, is a replica of the ones used during Moorish times. At first, we thought it was used to grind olives or wheat, but closer inspection reveals that the buckets are designed to lift the water up, not to push it around. While there were other wheels designed for grinding, this particular one was used for irrigation, to pump water into the thirsty gardens of the Alcazar. The Moors had also developed the system of cisterns and trenches to move water throughout the garden. The result is a lush, cooling paradise in the middle of a rather hot, dry land. I don't know if the Christian kings had much water pressure in their fountains, but on the day we visited, there was a computer set up near one of the main pools, and the fountains put on a show with the water splashing at incredible heights, and alternatively 'dancing' higher and lower. It was quite impressive, and the kids enjoyed it.

In case you are wondering whether palace gardens are a suitable place to take small children, I assure you they had a great time watching the fountains splash, running through the rows of hedges and flowers, and climbing on the castle walls. Of course they got a little hot and tired, but we are always prepared for that with juice and snacks. This particular garden had several interesting details that they enjoyed. At the beginning, there were coy in the pond, and they came back to that several times just to sit for a few minutes and watch the fish. Later in the garden, one of the cyprus hedges was whimsically trimmed into a tree house, with windows, imitation stairs, and an area to hide inside. Finally, they enjoyed the tile designs of sea monsters in one of the pools, since my Dad (who was visiting and traveling with us) had been telling them stories about the 'Monster in the Pond.' Danny got very excited and exclaimed, "Look guys, I found the Monster in the Pond!" 

Our whole family enjoyed visiting the Alcazar, and the admission fee is well worth the opportunity to stroll through the gardens and pick your own favorite area. This tranquil pool, surrounded by blue flowers and tall, slender cyprus trees, was one of my favorites.

Although the castle itself is not nearly as impressive as the glittering Alcazar in Seville, it is still possible to tour some of the rooms, including the chapel, towers, and the castle walls. Climbing to the top of the Tower of Lions provides wonderful views of the remains of the fortress. You can look out over the gardens, or look down to the castle wall below. At the other end of the wall is the famous Inquisition tower, which was used as a prison during the Spanish Inquisition. In fact, the Alcazar became the headquarters of the Inquisition in 1482. Visitors can enter one of the tower rooms and see the high, narrow window slits, and the bolts in the wall that held chains and prisoners. Boabdil, the last Moorish King of Granada, was a prisoner here. When he refused to surrender the city of Granada, Ferdinand and Isabel attacked it, and successfully conquered the city in 1492.

If that date sounds familiar to Americans, it's because 1492 is when Columbus discovered the Americas. He had spent several years petitioning the monarchs of various European courts, but no one was willing to finance his quest. After King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella defeated the Moors at Granada in 1492, they were flush with war winnings and low on enemies, so they met with Columbus at Cordoba's Alcazar to commission him for his first voyage. This statue in the palace gardens commemorates that event.

Final note about Cordoba: the city is also famous for its Festival of the Patios, which occurs every May. We were visiting just after this event, so we did not get to enter any private patios and see the amazing blooms and tile decorations. But there are numerous patio-style restaurants in the area around the Mezquita and the Alcazar where tourists can enjoy shade, refreshments, and typical Cordoban flowers and decor. We stopped for lunch in one such place,and got to introduce my parents to such Spanish essentials as gazpacho, grilled swordfish, and tuna pizza. I'm so glad we got to experience this beautiful city with them. We had a wonderful visit!