Bullfighting in Spain

The Spanish tradition of bullfighting began in the 1700’s, when nobles mounted on horseback would train by hunting bulls. The sport became very popular, and bullrings were constructed in towns throughout Spain. The bullring in Ronda is the country’s oldest, and the one in Madrid is the country’s largest. Bullfighting continues to be popular throughout Andalusia and in some other parts of Spain. During the summer months, you can attend a bullfight at the rings in El Puerto de Santa Maria, Sanlúcar de Barremeda, Ronda, or Sevilla. (Click on each city to reach the link to their bullfight schedule, or search 'toros' or 'taurina' in each city's tourism website.)

Each fight features three different matadors of varying skill levels, each usually fighting two bulls. Some have become so popular that they have achieved celebrity status in Spain. You can purchase tickets either for the sol (sunny) or sombre (shaded) side of the arena. The sun tickets are cheaper, because they are hotter and the sun is shining in your eyes during the fight. At a fight, you will first see the matador and his entourage parade into the ring. Then the bull is released and tested with a series of elaborate cape movements. Then, picadores mounted on horses chase after the bull and stab him with lances, which weaken him. The bleeding bull will charge the horses, but they wear padding to protect them from his horns. Next, the matador’s assistants try to stick banderillas (sharp sticks) into the bull’s shoulders. Finally, the matador approaches him on foot and begins the 'art' of bullfighting. He uses a sword and a short red cape called a muleta, and encourages the bull to charge in a series of passes. The matador’s movements are very close to the bull’s horns and body. The fight concludes when the matador kills the bull with his sword, ideally with a single thrust. (In Portugal, the bulls are not killed in the ring, but in Spain they are). Warning: there will be blood, and the animal will be killed before your eyes.

            

 Please note that Spanish people currently have mixed views about the ‘sport’ of bullfighting. In some parts of the country, the practice is outlawed because it is bloody and demonstrates animal cruelty. The bulls are bred for the ring, and prepared for their fight with cruel treatments that border on torture. However, supporters argue that it is an artistic element of Spanish culture and should be preserved as a cultural event. Whether or not you choose to attend a fight, or watch one on TV, you can appreciate the importance of the bulls in Spanish traditions.

  

Excerpt from the book, 'Welcome to Rota.'

Festival of San Juan

June 23: Feast of San Juan

            The night of June 23-24 is a unique celebration. This is the shortest night of the year, and is a festival that mixes light and darkness, fire and water. At beach towns throughout the region, people spend the whole evening on the sand eating and drinking around bonfires. Many people will attempt to jump three times over the fire, in what used to be a pagan superstition about purifying and burning away problems.  At midnight, everyone jumps into the ocean, to wash away evil spirits. Some towns even have fireworks on this night. It is a fun and festive occasion not to be missed.

Excerpt from the book 'Welcome to Rota.' Please note that in 2015, the town of Rota did not allow bonfires due to a summer-long burn ban, and the town of El Puerto did not allow fires on many beaches. The beaches of Las Redes in Puerto were the best location for the celebration.

Visiting Vejer de la Frontera

 

Vejer de la Frontera is another ancient white village (pueblo blanco) perched on the top of a hill, about 1 hour South of Rota. It was a settlement during Phoenician and Roman times, then taken over by the Moors in the 8^th century, and remained in their control until the reign of the Christian kings in the 13^th century. Then Vejer became a frontier town for the war between the Christians and Moors, which is why it still has the title “de la Frontera.” The city walls, several churches, the old castle, and the beautiful fountain in the Plaza de España all show examples of Moorish architecture. From the highest points you can enjoy beautiful views of the ocean and the surrounding valleys stretching for miles in all directions. You can even see Morocco on a clear day! Much of the ancient city walls and gates are still intact, so this is a wonderful city to just wander through and soak up the history and culture of this region. Be prepared for lots of narrow streets and uphill walking. A large parking lot is available at the lower end of the town off the N-340 road. (GPS Coordinates:  36°15'21.9"N 5°58'03.2"W.) The tourist information center is located next to this parking lot. There is also a clearly-marked parking garage 1 block from the downtown Plaza d'Espana.

            Vejer is also well known for its running of the bulls, which takes place every year on Easter Sunday. There is no bullfight, but there are usually two runnings. One bull at a time is released into the streets on this day. Barricades are set up to protect onlookers, but anyone running in the streets will have to climb windows or run for cover when the bull charges through! Military personnel are not permitted to run with the bull, but they may watch the event, which has its own unique festival atmosphere.   

 

There are many great restaurant choices in Vejer, but the most popular and well-known is the Moroccan style restaurant beneath the hotel off the Plaza de España, called El Jardin del Califa. The building itself is a historic monument dating from the 1500’s, and the stone courtyard is an exotic location to relax and enjoy a great meal. The restaurant serves amazing selections of Moroccan dishes like tagine, kabobs, falafel, cous cous, barbequed meat, and salads.  Advance reservations can be done through their website, and are recommended, as this restaurant is very popular! It has been listed in the Michelin guide for the past few years.

           

Finally, there are several important landmarks to note nearby. The Roman city of Baelo Claudia is in the nearby town of Bolonia, and both cities can easily be visited in the same day. In addition, the famous naval Battle of Trafalgar was fought in the waters just off the coast of Vejer. During this battle in 1805, the British Admiral Lord Nelson achieved a crushing victory over the combined Spanish-French fleet, and did not lose a single ship from the British Navy. This is not a fond memory for the Spanish, since it marks the end of Spanish maritime superiority. However, there is a tall monument commemorating the battle on the top of Cape Trafalgar. 

(Text is mine from the book 'Welcome to Rota.' Photos are mine, except for photos from the Jardins de Califa website.)