Sevilla Part 2: the Real Alcazar and gardens

One of the most stunning buildings in Sevilla, and possibly in Spain, is the Real Alcazar, or royal palace. Note: Real is actually pronounced 'Ray-al' and it means Royal, in Spanish. Alcazar has an accent on the 2nd a, meaning it is pronounced 'al-CA-zar' but I don't know how to make the accents on my computer.

It is one of the oldest castles still in use in Europe, since the upper level is still used by the Royal Family when they are in town. It is also one of the best surviving examples of the Mudejar style of architecture, which is the Moorish style of elaborate carvings and inscriptions in tile work and stucco. Pictured at left is the Courtyard of the Maidens (El Patio de las Doncellas), with its graceful Moorish arches, and detailed stucco work. But every single door and window in the palace is a unique work of art.

Fans of the TV show "Game of Thrones" may recognize the palace from scenes of the Dornish Water Palace in Season 5. The show came to Sevilla and filmed on site in Fall 2014.

 

The palace site was originally a Moorish fort, but in 1364 the Christian King Pedro I ordered the construction of the royal residence that is there today. The finest craftsmen of Toledo and Granada were enlisted to make a palace that amazes and glitters at every turn. The tiles at right show Islamic inscriptions, as well as the castle and lion figures, which represent Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand, and are present throughout the castle. We were completely unprepared for the breathtaking intricate artwork. At every doorway we said, "Oh wow!" and at every courtyard we just sighed in amazement. 

The Real Alcazar was, in my opinion, the most outstanding sight in Sevilla, and I would certainly take visitors to see it.

Entrance fee: 8.50 Euro per adult

Summer Hours: 9:30am- 7pm, Tuesday-Saturday, closes at 5 pm Sundays

Winter Hours (Oct-March): 9:30am- 5pm Tuesday-Saturday, closes at 1:30 pm Sunday

 Several important marriages occurred here, as well as several important births. It also became the central point through which all trade with the New World was conducted, and Isabella met with Columbus in the chapel here. The ceilings throughout the palace were designed to recognize some of these momentous events, and each one is unique. You are continually looking up at bright geometric designs, carved wood inlaid with gold, and gorgeous symbols. But the most impressive ceiling is certainly the one in the throne room. This dome, directly over the king's throne, is carved wood inlaid with pure gold. The stars represent the heavens, and demonstrate that none but God is higher than the king. The throne room and adjacent Hall of Ambassadors are made to impress visitors to the court of Spain. The Peacock Doorway, pictured here, is what ambassadors would pass through to enter the throne room. The triple horseshoe arches are used throughout the palace, and are typical Islamic style. Every surface is covered in gold or azuletes (blue tiles). It is interesting to see a Christian palace built by Islamic artisans, but the result is truly amazing.

After the splendor of the palace, the gardens are a refreshing respite. Of course, most of the palace is open-air and the complex is interwoven with spacious cooling courtyards. But the actual gardens are behind the Alcazar, and contain several pleasant paths going to various fountains, pools, and outlaying structures. They are well-maintained, and have some poetic verses and statuary scattered throughout. At left is the pond you see upon entering the gardens. It was originally a Cistern, used to collect rainwater from the roofs. The rain spout still works, and you can see the water on the left side of the picture. But it has now been modified into a still pond stocked with fish. 

I think our favorite area was this walkway, where Cyprus trees have been trained into arches to provide ornamental shade. The Spanish gardens are very structured, geometric, and beautiful. It is easy to picture the women of the Court in the 1400's spending their mornings or evenings there, enjoying the splash of the fountain and the cool breezes. And perhaps that is why this and other palace sites will continue to be preserved as witnesses to the Golden Age of Spanish history.