Sevilla Part 2: the Real Alcazar and gardens

One of the most stunning buildings in Sevilla, and possibly in Spain, is the Real Alcazar, or royal palace. Note: Real is actually pronounced 'Ray-al' and it means Royal, in Spanish. Alcazar has an accent on the 2nd a, meaning it is pronounced 'al-CA-zar' but I don't know how to make the accents on my computer.

It is one of the oldest castles still in use in Europe, since the upper level is still used by the Royal Family when they are in town. It is also one of the best surviving examples of the Mudejar style of architecture, which is the Moorish style of elaborate carvings and inscriptions in tile work and stucco. Pictured at left is the Courtyard of the Maidens (El Patio de las Doncellas), with its graceful Moorish arches, and detailed stucco work. But every single door and window in the palace is a unique work of art.

Fans of the TV show "Game of Thrones" may recognize the palace from scenes of the Dornish Water Palace in Season 5. The show came to Sevilla and filmed on site in Fall 2014.

 

The palace site was originally a Moorish fort, but in 1364 the Christian King Pedro I ordered the construction of the royal residence that is there today. The finest craftsmen of Toledo and Granada were enlisted to make a palace that amazes and glitters at every turn. The tiles at right show Islamic inscriptions, as well as the castle and lion figures, which represent Queen Isabella and King Ferdinand, and are present throughout the castle. We were completely unprepared for the breathtaking intricate artwork. At every doorway we said, "Oh wow!" and at every courtyard we just sighed in amazement. 

The Real Alcazar was, in my opinion, the most outstanding sight in Sevilla, and I would certainly take visitors to see it.

Entrance fee: 8.50 Euro per adult

Summer Hours: 9:30am- 7pm, Tuesday-Saturday, closes at 5 pm Sundays

Winter Hours (Oct-March): 9:30am- 5pm Tuesday-Saturday, closes at 1:30 pm Sunday

 Several important marriages occurred here, as well as several important births. It also became the central point through which all trade with the New World was conducted, and Isabella met with Columbus in the chapel here. The ceilings throughout the palace were designed to recognize some of these momentous events, and each one is unique. You are continually looking up at bright geometric designs, carved wood inlaid with gold, and gorgeous symbols. But the most impressive ceiling is certainly the one in the throne room. This dome, directly over the king's throne, is carved wood inlaid with pure gold. The stars represent the heavens, and demonstrate that none but God is higher than the king. The throne room and adjacent Hall of Ambassadors are made to impress visitors to the court of Spain. The Peacock Doorway, pictured here, is what ambassadors would pass through to enter the throne room. The triple horseshoe arches are used throughout the palace, and are typical Islamic style. Every surface is covered in gold or azuletes (blue tiles). It is interesting to see a Christian palace built by Islamic artisans, but the result is truly amazing.

After the splendor of the palace, the gardens are a refreshing respite. Of course, most of the palace is open-air and the complex is interwoven with spacious cooling courtyards. But the actual gardens are behind the Alcazar, and contain several pleasant paths going to various fountains, pools, and outlaying structures. They are well-maintained, and have some poetic verses and statuary scattered throughout. At left is the pond you see upon entering the gardens. It was originally a Cistern, used to collect rainwater from the roofs. The rain spout still works, and you can see the water on the left side of the picture. But it has now been modified into a still pond stocked with fish. 

I think our favorite area was this walkway, where Cyprus trees have been trained into arches to provide ornamental shade. The Spanish gardens are very structured, geometric, and beautiful. It is easy to picture the women of the Court in the 1400's spending their mornings or evenings there, enjoying the splash of the fountain and the cool breezes. And perhaps that is why this and other palace sites will continue to be preserved as witnesses to the Golden Age of Spanish history.

 

Seville Part 1: the Cathedral and Giralda

We recently had the opportunity to visit the city of Seville... without children! We did a baby-sitting exchange with our neighbor, so that each couple was able to do some child-free traveling. We had an amazing day, and were able to see so much more than we ever would with tired cranky little ones tagging along. We enjoyed the Plaza d'Espana, the Archaeology Museum, the Cathedral, and the Alcazar Palace... as well as delicious tapas and drinks! So I actually have to break Seville into several blog posts to do it justice. First up is what was, for me, the focus of the trip-- the Cathedral. 

Entry fee to Cathedral, which includes access to Giralda, Treasury, etc: 8 Euro per person 

Seville's cathedral, like many in Spain, is built on the site of a former mosque. Most of the mosque was destroyed in an earthquake before the Christian site was constructed, although the Orange Courtyard remains essentially the same, you can still recognize the Moorish architecture in the domes of the building and the arches and windows. And of course, the famous Giralda bell tower is the former minaret of the mosque. The Giralda was added onto and re-decorated in several stages, but it is clearly the minaret that used to call Muslims to worship.

 

The cathedral was constructed between 1402 and 1506. During that time, Spain discovered the New World and enjoyed its Golden Age, and most of the gold from the New World flowed through the city of Seville. The cathedral was intended to be a display of wealth and beauty that would be considered almost crazy. When it was completed, it replaced the Hagia Sophia in Turkey as the largest cathedral in the world.  The nave (main aisle) is the longest in Spain, and the 3rd largest in the world. The ceilings are high (42 meters) intricately carved and decorated. The building is fairly dark inside, due to very few stained glass windows. It also has a somewhat complicated design, since it is laid out in the shape of a cross, and gives the impression of being as wide as it is long. There are 80 chapels, all with their own theme and unique artwork! The picture here shows the view down just one side aisle.

 Inside, there are numerous works of art, ridiculously ornate carvings, and an entire chapel covered in gold. There were so many details to catch our attention, but I will highlight just two here: the ornate altarpiece behind the choir, and the tomb of Christopher Columbus. The altarpiece covers the entire back of the choir area, and uses various colors of marble with carvings, bas-relief, and paintings depicting scenes from the life of Christ. Apparently it was the life's work of one artist: Pierre Dancart. 

Columbus's tomb is actually carried by 4 figures, wearing the lion heraldry of King Ferdinand and the Castle symbol of Queen Isabella. Although he died in somewhat a state of disgrace, having been rejected by the Caribbean islands as an inhumane governor, Christopher Columbus is still a hero in Spanish history because he obviously discovered the Americas and brought enormous wealth to Spain. During the Golden Age, Seville was the economic capital of Spain, and all imports from the New World were sent directly upriver to this inland city. The lion and castle images are all over the city, and throughout the Cathedral as well.

If you climb the Giralda (which we did!) you will have spectacular views of the city and the Cathedral itself. The inside of the bell tower is actually filled with a series of ramps (about 32 of them) which make for a somewhat breath-taking and crowded climb. You see different aspects of the Cathedral from each side of the Giralda. From this angle, the cross layout is clear, even though from the street it looks like one enormously long building. However, the dome is not where you expect it--in the center. Instead, the main dome is off to the side of the Giralda. The dome collapsed almost immediately after the church was constructed, and then again after the Earthquake of 1888. 

Looking down into the Orange Courtyard from the Giralda, you can see the Moorish arches that surround this part of the complex. The trees provide shade and fragrance, which were essential elements to Moorish patios, and there are several small fountains among them to provide additional coolness and the refreshing sound of water. The lines you see on the pavement are in fact small irrigation trenches that run to every tree. It is so interesting to see Muslim influence on such an impressive Cathedral. But it is a beautiful structure, and certainly worth a visit! I hope you get to see it sometime soon!

SimplySpanish Dinner party

Last week, my parents came to visit. :-) In the picture on left, Dad is on far right, and Mom is on far left. They only had a few days here, so I wanted them to get some great Spanish culinary experiences. But I also wanted to be able to enjoy my time with them and not spend a whole day shopping for ingredients and cooking, with children underfoot.
So I was excited to come across an ad in our Coastline newspaper for SimplySpanish Food, a new company located in Rota that offers cooking classes and catering services. They will offer classes at their site, or come to you. I contacted them about the possibility of hosting a dinner party at my house, and they worked with me to develop a 3-course menu. There was a discount for inviting more people, so we invited some friends who also had parents in town, and enjoyed an evening of wonderful food, plenty of wine, and great company!

SimplySpanish Food is run by two lovely Spanish women-- Fiona and Marijol. Their English is excellent, and they clearly love Spanish food and teaching others to prepare it. We met them at the Rota gate and had to escort them onto base. (You should always contact Security ahead of time when doing this). When they arrived at my house, they immediately began to set the table, and organize the food and tools they brought with them. They did all the grocery shopping for the meal, and the groceries were included in the overall cost per person. They also brought 2 bottles of sherry and 2 bottles of wine. So as they set up, I was free to put my kids to bed, greet my guests, and enjoy some wine. Dinner is not usually a relaxing time for me, so it was very refreshing to have someone else taking care of all the preparations! (Note that on base we use 110 appliances, and their company uses 220, so it is good to discuss ahead of time which electronics they need, and what you own. They asked in advance to use my mixer, which was easier for everyone.)

It was difficult to choose a menu from their list of delicious-sounding options, but we settled on Garlic Prawns as the appetizer, Fid'eu Seafood Pasta as the entree, and Chocolate Mousse for dessert. The first step was to peel the prawns, and save their shells to boil into fish stock. The men jumped right in and helped with the peeling. Then the women took turns popping in and out of the kitchen to observe, ask questions, and enjoy the delicious aromas. SimplySpanish provided a list of recipes for each participant, so we could ask questions about ingredients, and any of the cooking steps. I learned a lot of interesting things:

- To make fish stock, you can use any seafood shell, bring it to a boil, let it rest, and then strain out the shells from the stock
- Spanish garlic is much stronger than garlic from other countries, so they adjusted the recipes for us to use "American garlic". 
- Peeling fresh tomatoes before cooking in a paella or pasta dish gives the dish a smoother texture. They sell special tomato peelers for this purpose. Or you can use a sharp knife. But you don't want to boil the tomato first (as I usually do) because this will ruin the flavor.
- Pimenton is a Spanish spice which is often translated as Paprika. But we learned that Pimenton dulche is actually the same as McCormick Smoked Paprika, and Pimenton picante is like chili powder.
- Chocolate mousse is best prepared with dark chocolate, but not EXTRA dark. It has to be slowly melted, then folded into whipped egg whites.
- In this region, Fid'eu is made with noodles that look just like macaroni, except they are a little thicker. In Valencia and other Eastern areas, Fid'eu is prepared with straight broken spaghetti noodles.
- You can use any kind of seafood in Fid'eu, which is like a noodle paella. Ours had squid and monkfish, which gave it a very rich, creamy flavor. You can also use clams, mussels, shrimp, etc.

All the food was so delicious! The garlic prawns were delightful in a garlic butter sauce; the Fid'eu was rich and flavorful, and the chocolate mousse was so thick and rich that the spoon literally stood up in the bowl! SimplySpanish brought many of the serving dishes, and served us each dish once it was prepared. They even did the dishes while we ate, then caught a cab back to the gate after dessert was prepared, so that we could relax and enjoy the rest of the evening. It was so wonderful to relax with my family, not have to worry about cooking and cleaning like I do every other day, and to learn how to prepare some authentic Spanish dishes on my own! We all enjoyed a night of adult conversation and fancy food, without having to worry about designated drivers or babysitters. The price per person for our menu started at 45 Euros per person, but with the 'Large Group' discount, it became 40 Euro per person. We all thought this was a good deal for the quality that SimplySpanish offered. I would highly recommend them to anyone, and am already thinking of a next event: Girls Night In? Group Cooking class when my in-laws visit? Date Night with my husband? The possibilities are endless! :-)

I am not paid to advertise for SimplySpanish. But they are an excellent company and did high quality professional work, so I don't mind putting in a good word for them. To contact Fiona and Marijol, email simplyspanishfood@hotmail.com, or call them at 653 834 065 or 650 053 621. Enjoy!

El Rocio Pilgrimage

Every year, the week before Pentecost, about 1 million people from all over Andalusia gather in the town of El Rocio to celebrate Nuestra Senora del Rocio, Our Lady of the Dew. The pilgrims, or Romeros, have been making this journey annually since the 17th century. It takes 4 days or more to travel across Andalusia, because they ride on horses, and pull colorfully-decorated wagons to carry their supplies as they camp and make their way towards El Rocio.

The tradition of Our Lady of El Rocio goes back to the 13th century, when a hunter found a statue of the Virgin in a densely wooded area of the modern-day Donana Park. At first, the hunter tried to carry the statue back to his home town. But it became so heavy that he stopped to rest, and when he awoke, the statue was missing. He found it once again in its original place, several miles behind him, and realized that the Virgin intended for her chapel to be built on that site. On the night of Pentecost, the town of El Rocio has a huge celebration and procession of the statue of Mary, as she is carried from the chapel of one brotherhood to the next. Devotion was originally a local event, but in the 17th century, other cities began to form groups, or brotherhoods, to make the pilgrimage together.

Now, each town in this region sends their own brotherhood. The groups travel together riding horses, wearing traditional attire: short traje jackets and wide-brimmed hats for the men, and colorful ruffled flamenco dresses for the women. They are followed by wagons and modern caravan homes, which they sometimes camp in overnight, although some groups have large tractors pulling trailers of supplies. One essential supply is... wine! There are huge plastic barrels of manzanilla wine to fortify the Romeros on their journey. Because this is a Spanish pilgrimage, it is basically one long party. During the day, they drink and sing songs. At night, they make campfires, drink, and sing more songs. The pilgrimage is a family affair, with plenty of children riding in the wagons and caravans.

There are several routes the pilgrims can take, but they all eventually come to the Donana National Park, which is a protected wildlife area. Typically, people are not allowed to travel though this park unaccompanied, so the Rocio pilgrimage involves lots of police watching the route, and protecting against forest fires. To reach the Donana Park, the pilgrims must cross the Guadalquivir river, so they all come together at the town of San Lucar de Barrameda to board ferries and enter the park. For 2 days, brotherhoods line up at designated times to board the ferry together. The kids and I, along with some friends, were lucky to be able to go to San Lucar and watch the festivities while at the ferry crossing.

Although it was a little chilly and drizzly, I am glad that we got to travel to San Lucar (which is only a half hour from base) to see this event. The children enjoyed watching the horses travel through the streets and line up to get on the ferry. Andalusian horses are beautiful-- mostly brown or white, with such graceful lines. We enjoyed the festive atmosphere, as locals filled the riverfront restaurants, sang in the streets, and enjoyed the event with us.



My favorite part of the day was probably chatting with a local woman named Lola, who first came over to admire our children (my friend and I had 4 young children between us, and the Spanish can't resist cute kids). She began telling us--in Spanish-- how beautiful the children were, and how we should treasure them because they will grow up so quickly. She had 3 grown children of her own. Next thing we know, she is showing us pictures of her grandchildren, and inviting us to go to her family's caseta (pavilion) during their Feria, which was the following weekend! Of course we didn't take her up on the offer, but she completely expected that we would just show up at her caseta and introduce her to the rest of our family. My friend speaks better Spanish than I do, but we were both able to follow the conversation and appreciate Lola's compliments. To me, she demonstrated so many of the positive traits of the Spanish-- the openness to strangers, their generosity, love of children, love of life, and love of celebrations. And of course it was refreshing to be complimented on Spanish and feel a little bit of accomplishment after so many mistakes and struggles.

My other favorite detail of the day was visiting the local chapel, which was right on the riverfront in San Lucar. This tiny chapel was a stopping point for some people on the pilgrimage, and was filled with candles and fresh flower bouquets. It was dedicated to our Lady, "Queen of the Sea and Queen of Heaven." Of course, since San Lucar is a fishing town, there is a strong dedication to our Lady to protect all ocean activity. The symbols and images were so interesting: anchors, ship's wheels, drowning sailors, and even blinking lights around Mary's head. The kids enjoyed it, and as I sat there and prayed a Hail Mary with them, I was happy to be a part of this interesting Spanish tradition.

Feria: How the Spanish celebrate Spring

Right after Easter, cities throughout the south of Spain (Andalusia) host a week-long celebration called 'Feria,' which is often translated as "Spring Fair." Any good Spanish celebration involves drinking and music, and Feria is the ultimate festival: carnival rides, food, music, dancing, all-night drinking, horse shows, and fancy dresses. What's not to love?! We have spent the last month attending Feria events on base, in Rota, and in Jerez. For the Spanish, Feria is the most wonderful time of the year. The first Feria is traditionally in Seville, the regional capital, in April. After that, each city has their own week-long celebration. So Feria season actually stretches from April until October. If you are ever in Spain during that time, you must attend a Feria! It is like an explosion of Spanish culture.






The tradition of Feria began in 1847, in Seville. It was originally a livestock and agricultural event. But in typical Spanish tradition, they turned business into a party, and it quickly became a popular annual event that has continued every year since. While Feria is no longer an agricultural fair, horses still play an important role in the celebrations. The Andalusian horses that are bred in this region are famous for their graceful form and elaborate training. In Seville, horse-drawn carriages still bring the wealthy to the Feria grounds. In Jerez (the center of the breeding and training activities) it is called the Feria de Caballos, and presents horse shows and carriage rides for Feria attendees. On base, we were given a demonstration of the Andalusian horses. Their routines are set to Flamenco music, and they are trained to side-step, prance, spin, and basically DANCE to the music. It is quite beautiful and stunning.

 Music is a huge part of the Feria celebration. In Southern Spain, there is a unique form of flamenco music that is called "Sevillanas," because it was created by the people of Seville. The Sevillanas can be danced to any flamenco song, but it is always a 4-part dance, which is supposed to represent 4 stages of a romantic relationship--meeting, getting acquainted, falling in love, and fulfillment. Each part is 1 minute long, and contains its own set formula of steps and movements. Spanish children begin to learn Sevillanas as soon as they can walk. Our children learned it in their preschool class at the CDC (Child Development Center) on base. The CDC then hosted a Feria Day, where each classroom dressed up and danced with their teachers. They really enjoyed it!

Feria attire: The Spanish love to dress up for Feria, particularly the women. The bright, ruffled dresses are the traditional dress, not only for Flamenco dancing, but for any Feria event. Most dresses feature polka dots and bright colors, although there are more 'modern' designs with stripes or other patterns. But... mostly polka dots. Spanish women have their dresses tailored each year so that they are perfectly form-fitting. Or they buy a new dress each year, depending on budget. New dresses cost from 100-400 Euro, but you can get them used at a discounted rate. The traditional attire for men is related to the 'cowboy' garb of the 1800's: dark pants, sometimes with spurs, a vest, a white shirt, and a flat, black, wide-brimmed hat. (Men in general do not wear this, only those performing at feria. In contrast, ALL women dress up, even those not performing.) Women take great care to coordinate their accessories, which include a shawl, a flower in the hair, sometimes a large comb in the hair, and of course the shoes. It is also common to see siblings or families with coordinated dresses:

During the Spanish Civil War, Feria was supposed to be cancelled, but the Sevillians held it anyway, in defiance. During the 1920's it evolved into the gaudy, carnival atmosphere that you still find today.  Each city has their own Feria ground, which is a dirt area that is used primarily during this 1 week of the year. The entrance to the Feria is constructed anew each year, and is an elaborate gate, modeled off the entrance to the Feria in Seville. Over the Feria grounds, hundreds of lights hang in decorative arches. At night, they are lit up in many colors, adding to the festive atmosphere. Below is the main entrance to the Feria grounds in Rota.

<------  And this is the main entrance to the Feria grounds in Jerez. Because Jerez is a larger city, their Feria grounds are much larger than Rota's. They have many more carnival rides, and more activity. But the basic layout and celebration is the same in any city.








Once you enter the Feria grounds, the area is lined with 'casetas,' which in some cities are temporary tents, and in others are permanent buildings. The casetas are another product of the original agricultural fair. Tents were thrown up to provide shade for business transactions, and allow farmers to get a drink or something to eat. Now, each caseta is a complete restaurant, with a kitchen, bar, and dance floor. Each caseta is owned and operated by a different family, fraternity, or brotherhood, and the semi-private parties there continue overnight into the morning.

Once you pass the dirt Feria grounds, there is another part of the Feria celebration that is basically a carnival. Like American carnivals, there are numerous rides like Ferris wheels, carousels, and the bumper cars (pictured here). Each ride has its own ticket stand, so there are few lines. The rides are surprisingly long, lasting up to 5 minutes. But they should be, since each ride is 3 Euro, per person! Except on Thursday, which is Family Day at most Ferias, and the rides are half price.





There are also typical carnival games and food. Spanish fair food consists of hamburgers and chicken nuggets, falafel sandwiches, cotton candy, ice cream, and lots of donut stands. There are also curious stands of fresh coconut and nuts, with streams of cold water running over them.  The Rota Feria has a small section, one street, of these stands.






The Jerez Feria is much larger, taking up several city blocks. So the restaurants and eating choices are much larger, with areas to sit down at tables under tents outside. There are carnival games like shooting balloons, ring toss at rubber ducks, etc. You can win prizes like stuffed animals, large balloons... or completely inappropriate things like pillows with sexual organs printed on them.






Finally, Jerez's Feria has a section that is not present in Rota's Feria: a gypsy market that extends through several streets. They sell all kinds of Feria dresses and accessories, such as these roses for the hair. But you can also find wood carvings, jewelry, candy, and interesting gift ideas. Feria is a wonderful event, for the whole family to enjoy. There are plenty of babies in strollers and young children there to enjoy the rides, as well as groups of teens hanging out together, and parents dancing and singing into the wee hours of the morning. Feria season has been lots of fun, and we look forward to going again next year!

Baelo Claudia: Roman ruins in Southern Spain

Spain was once an important part of the Roman Empire. Some of the oldest cities in this area were first settled by the Phoenicians, then later conquered and rebuilt by the Romans. Just over an hour southeast of Rota is a well-preserved Roman city: Baelo Claudia. This site is still being excavated, but most of the major portions of the city have been uncovered and partially restored, including the Basilica and Forum, Theater, temple of Isis, baths, and fish drying buildings. It is the most comprehensive Roman town excavated on the Iberian Peninsula (Spain and Portugal). Our family recently enjoyed a pleasant morning exploring the site, and there was plenty to entertain my history-buff husband, as well as our toddler.

Baelo Claudia is located on the coast just southeast of Tarifa, in the small town of Bolonia. We were able to locate the city easily with our GPS, and then there were several signs leading to the historical site. It was about one and a half hours from base. There is free parking onsite, and admission to the site is also free for EU residents. We simply showed our EU drivers' license as identification, and saved the 5 Euro fee adults typically would pay. Be advised that this coast is always windy (the wind surfing capital of the world!) so even on warm days bring a jacket or sweatshirt.

We first entered a small museum, which I was not expecting. It was a pleasant surprise, because there were displays and videos in English and Spanish explaining a lot of background about the site and providing details on how objects are recovered, cleaned, and restored. Even though our children can't appreciate the significance of Roman history, they enjoyed watching some of the videos on stone carving, and getting up close to some of the artifacts. 

I enjoyed seeing the variety of artifacts in the museum (which is basically 2 large rooms on 1 floor) ranging from a tall marble column, a headless goddess statue, several Roman coins, and this picture, which is actual Roman plumbing. Roman engineering amazes me, particularly their ability to control and direct running water in ancient times. So I was again pleasantly surprised when our first view of the ruins upon exiting the museum was...

This, an intact section of the aquaduct, which once stretched about 5 km, and brought fresh water to this coastal city. Apparently there were originally 3 aqueducts. Even though it was on the outskirts of the Roman Empire, Baelo Claudia was laid out exactly the same way as any other Roman town, and had all the amenities you would find in a town the same size in Italy during that time. The entire city was surrounded by a wall, parts of which have been reconstructed to stand about 5 feet tall.

You enter the site through the original West Gate of the city, and walk on some of the original cobblestone streets. In other areas, wide modern gravel avenues make the ruins easy to explore. The visitor path is clearly marked, and there are informational signs in English and Spanish at all the major parts of the town. And if the ruins themselves aren't impressive enough, there is a gorgeous ocean view to enjoy. The ruins are literally right next to the beach. On a clear day, you can actually see the coast of Africa (Morocco) across these waters! In fact, Baelo Claudia was an important town because it was one of the harbors used to launch ships to trade with Africa.

The town was also famous for its tuna salting and a fermented fish paste called garum which was exported throughout the Empire. This picture shows Sophie checking out the fish salting area. Located right next to the harbor, it is where each day's catch would have been salted and preserved. The square holes are salting vats. This area is still famous today for its' tuna population, and apparently tuna was the main diet in Roman times as well. In fact, it is the Romans that invented the process of catching tuna in the almdraba nets, and apparently that is still the same style of netting that is used in the region today. So this was once a bustling harbor, and the 'industrial' portion of the city.

This wall, next to the harbor and the fish salting area, was probably the highest rebuilt wall on the site. The free-standing columns of the Basilica have all been rebuilt, as you can see below, but most of the stone walls were very low, or you were looking at foundations and trying to imagine what buildings, houses, and shops must have stood on top. I liked the doorway and windows that were in this wall, because there weren't any other windows on the site.





The central focus of the site is, of course, the pillars of the Basilica and the open Forum behind them. The Basilica and Forum are located at the center of town, at the intersection of the 2 main streets. This is true for all Roman towns, becuase they were all laid out exactly the same way. The word 'Basilica' does not mean any kind of church. Instead, it was a political center of law and government. The statue in the center is Emperor Trajan. The city of Baelo Claudia got its name from Emperor Claudius, who ruled from 10 BC- 53 AD, and granted the city the distinction of municipium (a title affecting the way local inhabitants became Roman citizens). But Emperor Trajan followed Claudius, from 54- 117 AD, so it is his statue that was in the city at its peak of growth. But Baelo Claudia was destroyed by an earthquake in the 2nd century AD, and abandoned by the 6th century.

The entire Basilica area is easy to visualize, because almost all the columns have been restored. It was a long, open hall, with the staue of the Enperor as the focal point at one end. The streets around the Basilica were the market area (which is mostly rubble now).

This is one of the rooms from the bathhouse. There were 4 major areas: a cold room for bathing, a hot room (sauna), a shallow pool for splashing, and an area for exercise. These are the 'pipes' undeneath the floor of the sauna, which were used to bring in hot water and control the temperature. It was very intricate, and very impressive. Bathing was a big part of Roman culture, and most citizens went to the bath house every day in the afternoon.

The major focal point at the north of the city is the theater, or amphitheater. It was not a Colosseum for sports; rather, a theater with a stage and an orchestra pit for musicians, as well as a curved seating area that was built into the natural slope of the hill. The building is mostly restored, with all the different areas very obvious, and closely resembling a modern theater or music hall. 

The theater was fun, because you were actually allowed to walk through one of the original 8 entrances and stand on a platform looking over the whole structure. The kids are looking across the orchestra pit to the stage area. From this inside view, you could see how the natural acoustics would amplify a spoken or musical performance. Most of the other ruins are understandably blocked off by fences a few feet away, so the kids enjoyed climbing up old steps and getting up close and personal.

This is one of the original 8 entrances to the theater. Most of the rocks on the site were hauled from a nearby mountain, but some of them we recognized as harvested coral. All the rocks were carefully cut and placed with Roman attention to detail. So much to be impressed with and marvel at!

We spent a few hours total at Baelo Claudia, then went to one of the beach restaurants next to the site for a lunch of grilled fish with gorgeous beach views. It was a wonderful day trip, and I highly recommend it! You could spend the afternoon on the beach which is just a few steps from the ruins. We took the scenic route home, through Tarifa, and along the beach where you can look at the cliff with the Trafalgar monument. If you still have time and energy, the old town of Vejer de la Frontera is on top of the cliff, and is somewhat famous for its' town walls dating from Moorish times, and a Cathedral and Castle. Maybe more about that next time! For now, we will keep on enjoying the beaches and history here!