Calendar
of holidays
There are TONS of local celebrations
and festivals that occur throughout the year. Some are only celebrated in one
town. Others are celebrated throughout Andalusia, or throughout Spain. The
major holidays of the year are described below. National holidays are
indicated, because schools, stores, and businesses will be closed on national
holidays. Local holidays may be celebrated only in certain regions of Spain, or
just in certain towns. Sometimes, if a holiday falls on a particular date and
it happens to be a Tuesday or Thursday, the Spanish will have a 4-day weekend
to celebrate the holiday. Other times, if the holiday date falls on a weekend,
the school and business closings will be on the closest Monday.
For more information about local
celebrations, go to Rota’s tourism page (in English): http://www.turismorota.com/ENG_13/.
Or you can visit El Puerto de Santa
Maria’s page:
http://www.turismoelpuerto.com/.
January
1: New Year’s (National Holiday)
Like many countries, Spain celebrates with
a countdown and fireworks at the capital. The Puerto del Sol plaza in Madrid is
the focus of the celebrations, and at midnight every eye turns to their clock
tower. However, the Spanish have a unique tradition to celebrate the New Year.
As the clock chimes midnight, people across the country attempt to eat 12
grapes, one on each chime, to bring them 12 months of luck the following year.
It is an amusing and somewhat challenging practice, which the Spanish make
easier by peeling and de-seeding their grapes ahead of time. The traditional
drink is cava, which is like
champagne. In Rota there is a big party with music in the Plaza d’España, but
it all starts after the countdown.
January
6: Three Kings’ Day (National Holiday)
The
feast of the three kings, also known as Epiphany, is on January 6. This is a
huge celebration for Spanish families, because it is the day children receive
their Christmas gifts. Christmas Day is usually a day to share a huge meal with
family, but the gifts are exchanged on January 6. Spanish children do not
celebrate Santa. Instead, it is the three kings from the Bible who brought
gifts to baby Jesus that continue to bring gifts to Spanish children. In the
weeks leading up to Three Kings’ Day, figures dressed as one of the kings will
appear at malls and town centers for photo opportunities. Children write
letters to the three Kings, then a Royal Postman collects and delivers them by
ship. On January 5, each local town has a Three Kings’ parade, where the figures
move through town on floats and throw candy to children. Correction: they pelt
children with tons of candy. It can actually hurt! But the Spanish children
love it, and it is a fun celebration. Depending on what day January 6 falls,
the Spanish typically have several days off work for this holiday.
February
28: Andalusia Day
Andalusia
Day is celebrated every February 28. It was this day in 1980 when the area of
Southern Spain called Andalusia became an autonomous community of Spain.
Schools and businesses are usually closed, and school
children will do some cultural activities or events to prepare for the day. The
Andalusian flag is two green stripes and one white horizontal stripe, so you
will see this everywhere. Some local towns have parades or cultural events to
mark the day.
Carnaval
The
date for this celebration changes each year, because it is the week (or weeks)
leading up to Ash Wednesday. Usually it is in late February or early March. In
the United States, New Orleans is known for their Mardi Gras celebration. In
Spain, Cádiz is the center of Carnaval activities. Carnaval is a riotous
celebration of music, costumes, and of course food and drink. For a week or
more, there are public and private celebrations in every town. Everyone dresses
up in crazy costumes, similar to an adult Halloween party. There are parades,
comedic musical performances, food tastings, and costume competitions.
Transportation like busses and ferries run all night long to transport drunken
revelers to and from the events. It is not a particularly child-friendly event,
and in Cádiz especially there are huge pressing crowds. But there are smaller
parades and celebrations in all the local towns, so you don’t have to go to Cádiz
to join in some great fun. Rota and Puerto both have small celebrations, and
Chipiona’s is particularly well-known and family-friendly.
Semana
Santa
(Thursday
and Friday are National Holidays)
The
opposite of Carnaval, this is the somber celebration of the Holy Week before
Easter. Again, the date changes each year, depending on Easter, but is usually
in April. The celebration begins on Palm Sunday (the week before Easter) with parades
that go from the churches throughout the town. On Holy Thursday and Good
Friday, there are solemn, silent processions that begin and end at the church.
During these processions, groups of men called brotherhoods carry enormous
platforms on their shoulders, bearing the weight of the church’s treasured
statures of Jesus and Mary. It is a huge honor to carry the platforms, and
brotherhoods train together for the event. The penitents wear tall pointed
caps, which to Americans look like the Ku Klux Klan outfit.
However, in Spain, they date to the Inquisition period, and designate someone
who is doing penance to earn forgiveness for his or her sins. Crowds from the
town will turn out for these processions and carry candles. Children collect
balls of wax from the candles as souvenirs. Schools are closed all week, and
businesses are closed Thursday and Friday.
April
Running of the Bulls
The
most famous festival with a running of the bulls is San Fermines in Pamplona,
in Northern Spain, and occurs in July. This is what Hemingway wrote about in
his novel The Sun Also Rises. However,
there are still a few places in Andalusia that will host a smaller event. Arcos
and Vejer de la Frontera have a running of the bulls every April. At least one
large bull is released into the street, to thunder past the crowds of
spectators. Men who attempt to outrun the bull usually wear white clothes and a
red sash. However, military personnel are not allowed to participate in the
running. They may only be spectators. Not all Spanish people support the activity,
or bull fights. It is an old tradition, but modern Spaniards have very divided
feelings about these events.
Feria
Right
after Easter, cities throughout the south of Spain (Andalusia) host a week-long
celebration called Feria, which is
often translated as ‘Spring Fair.’ Any good Spanish celebration involves
drinking and music, and Feria is the ultimate festival: carnival rides, food,
music, dancing, all-night drinking, horse shows, and fancy dresses. What's not
to love?! The first Feria is traditionally in Sevilla, the regional capital, in
April. After that, each city has their own week-long celebration. So Feria
season actually stretches from April until October. Spanish don’t always go to
Ferias in other towns, but during the week it is in their town, they celebrate
until dawn, and the Monday after Feria is often a holiday for a “recovery day.”
The
tradition of Feria began in 1847, in Sevilla. It was originally a livestock and
agricultural event. But in typical Spanish tradition, they turned business into
a party, and it became a popular annual event. While Feria is no longer an
agricultural fair, horses still play an important role in the celebrations. The
Andalusian horses that are bred in this region are famous for their graceful
form and elaborate training. In Sevilla, horse-drawn carriages still bring the
wealthy to the Feria grounds. In Jerez (the center of the breeding and training
activities) it is called the Feria de Caballos, and presents horse shows and
carriage rides for Feria attendees.
Feria
attire: The Spanish love to dress up for Feria, particularly the women. The
bright, ruffled dresses are the traditional dress, not only for Flamenco
dancing, but for any Feria event. Most dresses feature polka dots and bright
colors, although there are more 'modern' designs with stripes or other
patterns. But... mostly polka dots. Spanish women have their dresses tailored
each year so that they are perfectly form-fitting. Or they buy a new dress each
year, depending on budget. New dresses cost from 100-400 Euros, but you can get
them used at a discounted rate. The traditional attire for men is related to
the 'cowboy' garb of the 1800's: dark pants, sometimes with spurs, a vest, a
white shirt, and a flat, black, wide-brimmed hat, but you usually only see
performers wear this outfit. Women take great care to coordinate their
accessories, which include a shawl, a flower in the hair, sometimes a large
comb in the hair, and of course the shoes. It is also common to see siblings or
families with coordinated dresses. Wearing these dresses, women will break into
the traditional Sevillanas dance.
This is a beautiful dance with set steps and hand motions. Children often learn
it in school, and classes for adults are offered on base and throughout the
area. It is worthwhile to learn how to dance Sevillanas so that you can fully participate in the Feria
activities. But if you don’t dance, you can still enjoy the rides, games, food,
and people-watching!
During
the Spanish Civil War, Feria was supposed to be cancelled, but the Sevillians
held it anyway, in defiance. During the 1920's it evolved into the gaudy,
carnival atmosphere that you see today. Each city has its own Feria
ground, which is a dirt area that is primarily used during this one week of the
year. The entrance to the Feria is constructed anew each year, and is an
elaborate gate, modeled off the entrance to the Feria in Sevilla. Over the
Feria grounds, hundreds of lights hang in decorative arches. At night, they are
lit up in many colors, adding to the festive atmosphere. Once you enter the Feria
grounds, the area is lined with 'casetas,'
which in some cities are temporary tents, and in others are permanent
buildings. The casetas are another
product of the original agricultural fair. Tents were thrown up to provide
shade for business transactions, and allow farmers to get a drink or something
to eat. Now, each caseta is a
complete restaurant, with a kitchen, bar, and dance floor. Each caseta is owned and operated by a
different family, fraternity, or brotherhood, and the semi-private parties there
continue overnight into the morning. Typical dishes available in the casetas are: fried squid, fried peppers,
tortilla, jamón, and cheese.
Once
you pass the dirt Feria grounds, there is another part of the Feria celebration
that is basically a carnival. There are rides such as Ferris wheels, carousels,
and bumper cars. Each ride has its own ticket stand, so there are few lines.
The rides are surprisingly long, lasting up to 5 minutes. But they should be,
since each ride is 3 Euros, per person! Thursday is Family Day at most Ferias,
and the rides are half price. There are typical carnival games and food.
Spanish fair food consists of hamburgers and chicken nuggets, falafel
sandwiches, cotton candy, ice cream, and lots of donut stands. There are
carnival games with prizes like stuffed animals, large balloons, etc.
Whether
you go during the day with children, or at night with friends, Feria is a
wonderful event for the whole family to enjoy. There are plenty of babies in
strollers and young children there to enjoy the rides, as well as groups of
teens hanging out together, and parents dancing and singing into the wee hours
of the morning.
May
1: Labor Day (National Holiday)
May
1st is the Labor Day holiday, and is a holiday throughout the country. Stores and
businesses will be closed, and most Spanish will spend the day with families.
El
Rocio
Every year, the week before
Pentecost (usually late May), about 1 million people from all over Andalusia
gather in the town of El Rocio to celebrate Nuestra
Senora del Rocio, Our Lady of the Dew. The pilgrims, or Romeros, have been making this journey
annually since the 17th century. It takes four days or more to travel across
Andalusia, because they ride on horses and pull colorfully-decorated wagons to
carry their supplies as they camp and make their way towards El Rocio.
The tradition of Our Lady of El
Rocio goes back to the 13th century, when a hunter found a statue of the Virgin
in a densely wooded area of the modern-day Doñana Park, and built her a chapel
on that site. On the night of Pentecost, the town of El Rocio has a huge
celebration and procession of the statue of Mary, carrying her from the chapel
of one brotherhood to the next. Devotion was originally a local event, but in
the 17th century, other cities began to form groups, or brotherhoods, to make
the pilgrimage together. Now, each town in this region sends their own
brotherhood. The groups travel together riding horses, wearing traditional
attire: short traje jackets and
wide-brimmed hats for the men, and colorful ruffled feria dresses for the
women. They are followed by wagons and modern caravan homes, which they
sometimes camp in overnight, Some groups have large tractors pulling trailers
of supplies. One essential supply is... wine! There are huge plastic barrels of
manzanilla wine to fortify the Romeros on their journey. This is a joyful
event. During the day, they pray and sing songs. At night, they make campfires,
drink, pray, and sing. The pilgrimage is a family affair, with children riding
in the wagons and caravans.
There are several routes the
pilgrims can take, but they all eventually come to the Doñana National Park,
which is a protected wildlife area. People are not allowed to travel though
this park unaccompanied, so the Rocio pilgrimage involves lots of police
watching the route and protecting against forest fires. To reach the Doñana
Park, the pilgrims must cross the Guadalquivir river, so they all come together
at the town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda to board ferries and enter the park. For two
days, brotherhoods line up at designated times to board the ferry together. If
you go, you will enjoy the festive atmosphere, with locals filling the
riverfront restaurants and singing in the streets.
All Summer: Bullfight Season
The Spanish tradition of
bullfighting began in the 1700’s, when nobles mounted on horseback would train
by hunting bulls. The sport became very popular, and bullrings were constructed
in towns throughout Spain. The bullring in Ronda is the country’s oldest, and
the one in Madrid is the country’s largest. Bullfighting continues to be
popular throughout Andalusia and in some other parts of Spain. During the
summer months, you can attend a bullfight at the rings in El Puerto de Santa
Maria, Sanlúcar de Barremeda, Ronda, or Sevilla. Each fight features three
different matadors of varying skill levels, each usually fighting two bulls.
Some have become so popular that they have achieved celebrity status in Spain.
You can purchase tickets either for the sol
(sunny) or sombre (shaded) side
of the arena. The sun tickets are cheaper, because they are hotter and the sun
is shining in your eyes during the fight. At a fight, you will first see the
matador and his entourage parade into the ring. Then the bull is released and
tested with a series of elaborate cape movements. Then, picadores mounted on horses chase after the bull and stab him with
lances, which weaken him. The bleeding bull will charge the horses, but they wear
padding to protect them from his horns. Next, the matador’s assistants try to
stick banderillas (sharp sticks) into
the bull’s shoulders. Finally, the matador approaches him on foot and begins
the art of bullfighting. He uses a sword and a short red cape called a muleta, and encourages the bull to
charge in a series of passes. The matador’s movements are very close to the
bull’s horns and body, and can be quite exciting to watch. The fight concludes
when the matador kills the bull with his sword, ideally with a single thrust.
(In Portugal, the bulls are not killed in the ring, but in Spain they are).
Please note that Spanish people
currently have mixed views about the ‘sport’ of bullfighting. In some parts of
the country, the practice is outlawed because it is bloody and demonstrates
animal cruelty. The bulls are bred for the ring, and prepared for their fight
with cruel treatments that border on torture. However, supporters argue that it
is an artistic element of Spanish culture and should be preserved as a cultural
event. Whether or not you choose to attend a fight, or watch one on TV, you can
appreciate the importance of the bulls in Spanish traditions.
June 23: Feast of San Juan
The night of June 23-24 is a unique
celebration. This is the shortest night of the year, and is a festival that
mixes light and darkness, fire and water. At beach towns throughout the region,
people spend the whole evening on the sand eating and drinking around bonfires.
Many people will attempt to jump three times over the fire, in what used to be
a pagan superstition about purifying and burning away problems. At midnight, everyone jumps into the ocean,
to wash away evil spirits. Some towns even have fireworks on this night. It is
a fun and festive occasion not to be missed.
July 15: Fiesta del Carmen
This is the feast of Our Lady of
Mount Carmel, the patron saint of fishermen. So in ports throughout Spain and
in coastal towns like Rota, Puerto, and Cádiz, there will be special activities
and flotillas of boats in the harbor that carry an image of Mary.
Early August: Horse Races in Sanlúcar
Every August, in the nearby town of Sanlúcar
de Barremeda, there is a series of horse races on the beach. The races, called carreras
de caballos de Sanlúcar, have been held at this location since about 1845,
so they are one of the oldest horse races in Spain. They are held on two
different weekends and scheduled around the low tide on the Guadalquivir river,
around 6:30 pm, and last until sunset, around 10 pm. The races are about 1
mile, so they only last a few moments, but there is a new race every 45 minutes.
This is a great free event for the whole family. Enjoy a day at the beach, a
beautiful sunset, and some thrilling horse races! More info in Part IV of this
book.
August 15: Assumption (National
Holiday)
This is the feast of the Assumption
of Mary into heaven. Catholics believe that after her death, Mary’s body and
soul were taken into heaven. This is a religious feast celebrated throughout
Spain and in other Catholic countries. Spanish churches will hold special
Masses and events, and a majority of Spanish will attend Mass on this day. If
it falls during the week, stores and businesses will be closed.
Mid August
Every year, the town of Chipiona holds a wine festival in
mid-August featuring their signature white wine, Moscatel. This festival is
unique to Chipiona (about 20 minutes from base) and lasts about one week with
tasting and wine education events, as well as promotions at local restaurants.
September 8: Virgin of Miracles
The feast of Virgen de los Milagros,
the Virgin of Miracles, is a celebration in Puerto and a few other towns in
Spain, but not in other local towns besides Puerto. The Virgin of Miracles is
an alabaster statue with an interesting history.
Mid September
The town of Jerez de la Frontera
celebrates their Festival de Otoño (Autumn Festival) every September when the
grapes ripen for sherry production. This is a wonderful festival featuring
everything that is unique to Jerez: sherry, flamenco, bulls, and horses. For a
week there will be concerts, winery tours, sherry tastings, horse and flamenco
shows. There will also be bullfights, but these can be found at various towns
throughout the summer season.
October 7: Our Lady of the Rosary
This is the Feast of Our Lady of the Rosary, which is the
patron saint of the town of Rota and Cádiz. It is a feast in Rota, but will not
be celebrated in other local towns. In Rota, the feast is celebrated with a
week of activities, parades, and a ceremony that crowns a young woman “queen”
of the celebration. Up to twenty other young women in festive dresses will be
recognized as her court, and there will be a parade and a dancing celebration
in the Plaza d’España. There has always been one lady representing the Spanish
Navy, and another lady to represent the American military (usually a high school
student). The whole community can be involved in this event.
October 12: DÍa de la Hispanidad
(National Holiday)
This is the feast of the Virgen de Pilar, Our Lady of the
Pillar, patroness of Spain and the Hispanic world. It is a religious feast that
is still celebrated nationally and called Día de la Hispanidad. There is a
special military parade in Madrid. It also coincides with Columbus’s discovery
of the New World, so some people celebrate Columbus Day instead of the
religious holiday. Either way, expect schools and businesses to be closed.
November 1: All Saints’ Day
(National Holiday)
This is a religious feast celebrated
throughout the Catholic world. On November 1, the feast of All Saints, most
Spanish will attend church. On November 2, the Feast of All Souls, the Spanish
will visit graveyards to leave flowers or gifts on the graves of their
ancestors. Observation of the actual holiday with school and business closings
is usually on one of these two dates.
December 6: Día de la Constitutión
(National Holiday)
This National Holiday recognizes the passage of the modern
constitution on this date in 1978. After the death of dictator Francisco
Franco, a new constitution was needed to recognize the newly-formed Parliament.
This marks the beginning of Spain being a democracy and a constitutional
monarchy. There are institutional events at all town halls and schools. Schools
and businesses will be closed so people can enjoy time with their families. The
holiday can sometimes be observed on the closest Monday or Friday.
December 8: Inmaculada Concepción
(National Holiday)
This is a religious feast celebrated
throughout the Catholic world. It recognizes the Church teaching that Mary, the
mother of Jesus, was conceived without sin. Most Spanish will attend church on
this day, and there will be parades and processions around the main cathedrals.
Because it falls so close to the celebration of Spain’s Constitution Day, the
two holidays are often celebrated as one long weekend, with people getting off work
on both Friday and Monday. This long weekend is considered the beginning of the
Christmas season in Spain. It’s the weekend when Spanish families set up their
nativity scenes, which are even more important to families than Christmas
trees. Typically, you will not see decorations or Christmas activities until
this date.
December 25: Christmas/ Navidad
(National Holiday)
Like much of the world, the Spanish
celebrate Christmas Day as a vacation from work, to enjoy time with family. The
King delivers a message on TV around 9 pm on Christmas Eve. It is typical to
attend church together on Christmas Eve, and then enjoy a long meal most of the
night. Sometimes people return to have lunch with their families on Christmas
Day, the 25th. However, gifts are not traditionally exchanged on this day.
Adults may exchange gifts, but children’s gifts are saved until January 6, and
delivered not by Santa, but by the Three Kings.
There are several wonderful
Christmas traditions that can be found throughout Spain for most of the month
of December. The first is the Christmas Markets. Germany might be
world-renowned for its hand-crafted items and crowded Christmas Markets, but
Spain shares in this tradition too. Small towns like Rota will have a small
market lasting only one weekend, which is like an outdoor fair. Vendors set up
wooden stalls selling everything from fresh baked goods, jamón and cheese,
hand-crafted jewelry, antiques, candy, and toys. There are usually a few rides,
games, or activities for children. Larger cities like Sevilla will have several
large markets in locations throughout the city, with much more food and
handicraft options. Popular items include carved Nativity sets or religious
figurines, and you can eat churros (fried sugary dough) with hot chocolate.
Markets are closed during siesta, but reopen with well-lit stalls and rides
that last into the night.
Another great Spanish Christmas
tradition is the Zambombas. These are
musical performances of Spanish Christmas carols, usually accompanied by flamenco
dancers and the unique zambomba drum. Sometimes they take place in an
auditorium, on a stage, with tickets sold in advance. Other more casual
zambombas are in bars and open to anyone who walks by. Or they can be sung with
friends together at home.
Finally, a unique tradition in Arcos
de la Frontera and Medina Sidonia every December is the living nativity. For
one day and night in December (usually the weekend before Christmas), the
entire town will be transformed into a re-enactment of Bethlehem at the time of
Christ’s birth. Truckloads of dirt fill the town square to turn a parking lot
into a dusty version of Palestine. Citizens of these towns set up stalls, fire
pits, and action scenes with authentic costumes representing 1st century Jews,
Roman soldiers, and all the main Biblical characters. Whether you go during the
day or night, it is an impressive experience, but one that comes with lots of
crowds and uphill walking.
All of the above info is an excerpt from the book, 'Welcome to Rota,' published by Lizann Lightfoot in 2014.
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