Paris is one of my favorite places on this Earth. I spent a semester living there for a study-abroad program in college, and the experience was truly life-changing. I knew 6 months would go quickly, so I pushed myself to go/see/do EVERYTHING. As a result, I fell in love with the city, the people, the food, the museums...Ten years later, I was finally able to return, as a last hurrah trip before I had baby Mary Catherine. It was just my husband and I, without kids. Magical! It was wonderful to return to a city I already knew so well, and share it with my husband, who had never been there. I took him to some of my favorite places, and we even visited my former host family!
Since then, I frequently get questions from Americans traveling to Paris for the first time. They want to know what to do, where to stay, how to save money, and what to eat. In an attempt to share several months worth of experience in one blog post, here is my advice...
WHEN TO GO:
Paris is amazing any time of year. But my favorite time is Spring---the chestnut trees are full of fresh green leaves, the air is warm, and the sunlight is golden. Fall is a close second, with all those leaves changing and so many beautiful afternoons. Summer is quite hot and muggy, and full of tourists. And winter can be very cold, rainy, gray, and dreary. So if you plan a winter trip, try to limit your walking, and plan lots of indoor activities (and be aware that churches aren't usually heated!) If possible, go in April or May.
WHERE TO STAY:
First of all, you need to look at a map of Paris. It is a large city, and the main attractions are somewhat spread out. As with most European towns, the oldest area is in the city center, on the islands in the middle of the River Seine. Paris is divided into Arrondisements, or neighborhoods, that are numbered from 1-20. They begin at the city center, and spiral outward like a snail's shell. Each neighborhood has its own personality and attractions, but you don't need to visit them all. My favorites, and the ones I always recommend to friends, are the 5th (Latin Quarter) and the 6th (St. Germain). These neighborhoods are centrally located, very safe, and easy walking distance to Notre Dame, the Louvre, Luxembourg Gardens, and many other sites. They are also somewhat affordable, since they are the students' district, so there are many simple hotels and apartments to choose from. (We use the sites AirBnB.com or FlipKey.com to reserve apartments when we travel with family, but on our trip we were actually able to stay in a hotel! We found a great deal at the hotel Fontaines de Luxembourg.) The best things about these neighborhoods is that they have a huge variety of cafes and restaurants, representing many different kinds of world cuisines, and many offering casual affordable meals. We had breakfast at a little crepe shop every morning, and the taste of pastry and chocolate still lingers in my dreams. :-)
Why not stay close to the Eiffel Tower or the Arc de Triomphe? In a word, location. Both those sites are on the Western edge of the city, a little removed from the center. If you stay there, you will be doing even more walking to get to other places, and trust me--you will already be doing miles of walking through museums! Also, the neighborhoods around those two attractions are very expensive, and have more stores than restaurants. So my recommendation is to stay near the center, then use a cab, the metro, or the Hop On/Off buses to get over to sites like the Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, and Montmartre.
LEFT OR RIGHT BANK?
These terms are used to describe the two sides of the River Seine. Facing west, the way the river flows, the Left Bank is the Southern part of Paris-- the artsy neighborhoods of the Latin district, St. Germain, Montparnasse. This is my favorite area--full of cafés, medieval streets, and affordable places to eat and stay. The Right Bank is the Northern side of the city, generally wealthier, fancier, and full of elite shopping districts and beautiful architecture. Sometimes these neighborhoods are considered more quiet and peaceful, while the Left Bank neighborhoods can be noisier and filled with a younger crowd. But honestly, you can find wonderful, romantic, classy areas in any corner of Paris, so this is not a big determining factor when planning your visit.
GETTING AROUND:
Now you need to look at a metro map. Since you are most likely flying into the city, you first need to know how to get from the airport to your lodging. If you use RyanAir, they arrive in the Paris Beauvais airport, which is actually over an hour by bus from the city. But they do offer the shuttle bus to get you there somewhat conveniently. Other airlines fly into Charles de Gaul airport in the northeast, or Orly Airport in the South. In either case, you don't need to get an expensive cab ride into the city. The RER trains are like express metro trains. Each of those airports has an RER stop on the B line (blue), where you can purchase a ticket into the city center. The automated ticket machine will ask you which zones you need a ticket for. The airports are out at the farthest zones, so you need to buy 1 ticket that covers all 5 zones. The RER connects with the metro in multiple locations, so you can seamlessly go from the airport RER, get off at the metro line closest to you lodging, and then ride on the metro probably to within a few blocks of where you are staying. Just be sure to inquire about the closest metro stop before you leave! Once in town, the metro and taxis are an easy way to get around. Most metro stops are in Zone 1, so you can just buy individual tickets (T+) for 1.80 Euro a piece, or a pack of 10 (un carnet) for 14 Euros. Be forewarned that the metro is not very stroller friendly. Most stops have quite a few stairs to get underground. There is usually an elevator from street level, but you need to push the button and wait for the attendant somewhere in the metro to respond on the loudspeaker and open the doors. Sometimes they simply don't respond, so try to use baby backpacks or a very lightweight stroller.
Oh, and my French family's advice for estimating the time of a metro ride? Calculate 2 minutes for each stop on the map, and 5 minutes each time you change trains at a station. (This is generally true for the Metro, but NOT for the RER, where stops are much farther apart and you often wait much longer for trains!)
DO I NEED A PARIS PASS? There are several tourist package bundles available to you. Some can save you money, but do your research and choose the correct one for your trip. The Paris Museum Pass was great for us, since my husband and I wanted to cram in as many sights as possible during our brief child-free visit. The best part is that the pass not only covers your entrance fee into the major museums, but also lets you skip lines and go straight into places like the Louvre and Arc de Triomphe, saving you valuable time. I highly recommend this one if you are traveling with adults, but with kids it might not be as beneficial because you will probably go to fewer locations each day. The 2-day pass is 42 Euro per adult. Another option is the Paris Visite Pass, which offers unlimited use on the Paris public transportation. Prices vary based on number of days and how many zones you choose. 1 adult's 1-day metro pass for Zone 1 (almost all of touristy Paris, except the airports) is about 12 Euros. Metro tickets purchased individually are about 1.80 Euro per person per ride. A final option is the Paris Pass, which includes all of the above (free museum entrances, no lines, and metro travel), as well as free entrance onto the River Cruise and the Hop On/Off Bus. The two-day adult pass is 117 Euros. Again, this can still be a deal if you do the River Cruise and use the bus, it just depends how much hopping around you do.
WHAT TO SEE:
Ahhhhhh, so much! Certainly way more than you would be able to cover in a weekend or even a week, but let me try to pick my favorites...
Eiffel Tower
Of course, this is the must-see site when you visit Paris! But you have choices how/when you see it. In my opinion, the long lines to go to the top are simply not worth it. I've done it, and the view is wonderful, but you can also get great views from the Arc de Triomphe or Notre Dame Towers without wasting hours in a line. It's wonderful to walk right up to and underneath the tower to see the bones of this interesting ironwork structure that was created for the World Fair in 1889. You also get great views from across the river, at Trocadero. If you want to see it sparkle, be in view during the first 5 minutes of any hour from sunset (8 PM)- 1 AM. The light show is a newer event since the year 2000. If you catch it, it is truly a magical experience, one that you will not forget!
Another amazing Paris experience would be to eat in the gourmet restaurant on the middle levelof the tower. Of course it is expensive, but the food is top-quality and all shaped like the tower. Dinner reservations at the Restaurant Jules Verne also let you skip the lines and get a world-class view. :-)
Arc de Triomphe and Champs Eysées
This famous Arc was built in the 1800's to honor everyone who died in the French Revolution and the Napoleonic Wars. It is in the center of the Place d'Etoile, which is a 12-lane traffic circle in the Northwest of Paris. The Arc stands at the end of the famous Champs Elysées street, and has a straight view all the way to the Louvre. Climbing to the top gives you amazing views in every direction! You are supposed to cross the street underground through a tunnel, but one of my favorite memories was running through the circle with my husband! (Traffic was stopped for the weekly procession of the French Legionaires to renew the eternal flame at the tomb of the unknown soldier, which is directly below the Arc.) Strolling down the Champs Elysées (which means Elysian Fields) you will see the flagship stores of every luxury brand of clothing, purses, perfume, and accessories. It's like 5th Avenue in New York City, but much classier. You can also find a Movie Theater here that plays movies in English if they are an American film marked VO (Version Original).
Louvre
The Louvre Museum is one of the largest museum in the world. The interior corridors contain literally miles of paintings, sculptures, and sketches. When I lived in Paris, I took an art history class where we went to the Louvre once each week, and spent an hour in a different section each time. I'm still not sure I have seen everything there! So... it is honestly way too much to take in during one visit. Most people make the loop to see the top 3 attractions: Mona Lisa (La Jocunde), which is actually really small; Venus de Milo, which is gorgeous, and the Winged Victory/ Nike. If you like Renaissance art, then you will be in heaven here. So many enormous paintings, and a great variety of collections from Egypt, Roman Empire, Medieval Religious art, Napoleonic era decor, and even collections from Spain and Northern Europe. If you go downstairs, you can walk through the Louvre's original Medieval moat. It is exciting to realize that this was originally the palace of the French kings, so the building itself is as interesting and historically important as the art it contains. If you go, decide ahead of time how many hours you have available, and which sections you want to see most. You have to prioritize your visit to save you feet!
Museé d'Orsay
To be honest, I actually prefer this museum over the Louvre. It is the second largest art museum in Paris, but instead of focusing on Renaissance and Medieval art, it focuses on the 1800's styles, especially Impressionism. It also has an amazing sculpture gallery down the center of the museum. There is still a lot here, and you can easily spend a few hours inside, but it's not as overwhelming as the Louvre. And, it has Monet... and Manet... and many other of my favorites.
Notre Dame Cathedral
This world-renowned church was built from the 1100's-1300's, and is a truly amazing example of French Gothic architecture. The sturdy twin towers in the front are a famous sight, but to really appreciate the building, you need to view it from the garden behind it, or from the river. Then you can see the delicate flying buttresses that hold up the stone structure and make it so unique. Inside, 3 different enormous rose windows will take your breath away. You can go to Mass here in several languages, at different times on Sundays. To visit the towers and the treasury, go when Mass is not in session.
Other churches worth mentioning:
There are over 100 churches in Paris. Literally. Almost all Catholic. A unique church was built in each neighborhood, and many are centuries old. Not all remain places of worship, as some are now used for public events like lectures or concerts. When I lived there, I was studying Theology, so I visited as many as I could and got involved in multiple church events and activities. Some favorites are:
- St. Germain des Pres, which has a Sunday evening Mass and a very active Young Adult group
- Sainte Chapelle, which is a tiny church built to house Jesus's crown of thorns, and has the most brilliant, beautiful stained glass windows in the world! (photo at right)
- Sacré Coeur, the large white church on the top of the hill of Montmartre is a gorgeous 'modern' church, and has perpetual Adoration inside
- The Church of the Miraculous Medal (Notre Dame de la Medaille Miraculeuse) is on Rue du Bac, and Saint Catherine Labouré's body is preserved there.
- Saint Denis, on the Northern edge of the city, houses the tombs of many French kings. It's a little out of the way, but if you stay for a week, very worth a visit to see so many amazing and unique tombs stretching back over centuries.
Seine River
This river cuts through the center of Paris, and is crossed by numerous gorgeous bridges. A river cruise is the best way to take them all in without walking for hours (although I spent plenty of hours as a student strolling along the Seine and browsing through the green bookstands along the Left Bank!) There are a few brands of cruises, mostly leaving from the Eiffel Tower and making a round-trip loop. You can go on a Sightseeing Cruise, or even have dinner on the boat! At sunset, it is an amazing way to see the city, starting at 14 Euro per person.
Lock Bridge (Pont des Arts)
This is a fairly new tradition that has caught on with tourists at several bridges in Paris, and is even mentioned in some movies. Couples who visit the City of Love write their names on a padlock, then lock it onto the bridge, and throw the key into the river. The largest collection is on the Pont des Arts, just upstream (east) of Notre Dame.
Other Museums: Oh, there are hundreds to choose from, so if you have a favorite artist or interest, look them up in advance. They just may have a museum in Paris! Some of my favorites (these are probably not top visits on a weekend trip, but great ideas for a full week):
- Rodin has an indoor/outdoor museum where you can see his amazing sculptures like the Kiss (at left) and the Thinker.
- Monet (Marmottan), in the Western side of the 16th arrondisement has the best collection of Monet's work, from small detailed paintings to giant canvasses that cover an entire wall.
- The Chocolate Museum is relatively new, and presents an interesting history of the development of chocolate, as well as some delicious samples of hot chocolate at the end!
- Moyen Age, museum of the Middle Ages, is really cool because it has the ruins of Roman baths, which are the oldest thing in Paris. It is also known for the Unicorn Tapestries.
- Opera. You can tour the gorgeous Paris Opera House, setting of the fictional book Phantom of the Opera. If you are lucky, you can see a show in this amazing theater!
-Invalides (pictured at right) is the site of Napoleon's tomb, as well as the military museum. We went here at the request of my military history-loving husband, and discovered that it had tons of displays the kids would have enjoyed--full armor of knights, small battlefield replicas, army uniforms, cannons, etc.
Gardens: Paris has some amazing gardens! In good weather, this is where all of Paris turns out to relax in the sun, play with children, and enjoy each other's company. My favorite is the Jardins de Luxembourg, near the city center. It is elegant, and classically beautiful, with a large pool in the center and statues along the walkways. It is located just behind the Palace of Luxembourg.
Versailles:
Speaking of gardens, we must discuss the Palace of Versailles. This gilded palace of Louis XIV has the most gorgeous, formal gardens in France. Its fountains have amazing sculptures of Greek gods spurting showers of water. Inside, the palace is a breath-taking display of wealth, power, and opulence. Each room has painted ceiling murals, gold-gilded doors, and original period furniture and decor, which all culminates in the famous Hall of Mirrors. It is truly an amazing place. But... I wouldn't recommend it as a visit unless you have a full week in Paris. Getting to Versailles requires a 1-hour ride on the RER train (you need to purchase a special ticket to get to Zone 5) and some walking through the town of Versailles to reach the palace. Touring the palace will take at least an hour, and the gardens can take at least another hour. So it is a full daytrip, and you have to balance it into your trip priorities.
Montmartre: The 18th Arrondisement is the hill of Montmartre, and the location of the large white Basilica of Sacré Coeur (Sacred Heart). This used to be the artist's district, and you can still sit for a portrait or a caricature sketch in the main square. Now, the neighborhood is mostly filled with tourists, and the areas around it are a little seedy and less desirable, so even though this is a unique destination and popular with tourists, it is not my favorite. To get up the very steep hill, you can walk up some long stairways, or you can take a funicular tram up the hill. You can use a metro ticket for the funicular.
EuroDisney: Located just outside of Paris, this smaller version of Disney World caters to the European continent with multi-lingual characters, and representatives from a variety of movies and stories. Of course this is considered the kid-friendly thing to do in Paris, and I know many families that have enjoyed it. The park is smaller than Disney World and is just a 1-day trip. It looks fun and quaint, but (just my two cents here...) I think it is silly to spend a day in Paris at EuroDisney! We can wait until we are back in the States to consider planning a trip to the real Disney World.
Cooking Class: If you want to have a unique Paris experience, I recommend taking a cooking class! There are many to choose from, ranging from half-day classes that take you through the markets to purchase your ingredients first, to classes that are just 1 hour long and prepare 1 pastry. Some are perfect for couples, others are child-friendly. And many are in English! The best value and least time-consuming class we found was at L'Atelier des Sens.We were excited to find a Saturday evening class where you prepare (and then eat) a 3-course meal. However, we ended up changing our plans and going to a concert by the Parisian Orchestra instead. :-)
WHAT/ WHERE TO EAT:
Anywhere! It's all delicious! Truly, any café or brasserie will have delicious, simple, and usually affordable meals. Some common items that are at every café: Croque Monsieur, which is a grilled cheese sandwich. Croque Madame, which is a grilled cheese sandwich with an egg in the middle. Salad Niçoise, which is a fresh green salad with tuna fish and tomatoes. Plateau de Fromages, which is a platter with 3 different small cheese selections.
A patisserie is a bakery with all the fancy pastries, cakes, and tarts that Paris is famous for. The colorful cookies on the top shelf are Madelaines. They are light and creamy and each color is a different flavor. The chocolate cake is called Opera. All the fruit tarts are delicious. :-) If you just want a simple loaf of bread, a Boulangerie is the kind of bakery that makes bread. A loaf is called un baguette. It's wonderful to stop by a bakery and a cheese shop (fromagerie) and buy the ingredients for a picnic, then go enjoy them in a park. Hemingway called Paris a "Movable Feast," and there is something delicious to eat all the time!
Another cheap alternative for food is a grocery store. Monoprix is a large store like Carrefour or Super Wal-Mart, selling everything from groceries to clothes and accessories. It's an easy one-stop shop if your family needs some basic food or supplies.
If you are looking for traditional main dishes, I have several favorites. Moules Frites are mussels and French fries, pictured at right. The mussels are steamed in white wine, and enjoyed right out of the pot with a plate of fries. Another classic is Soup a l'Onion (French Onion Soup,) which is the perfect thing to warm you up on a cold day. Finally, I love a good French roasted chicken (poulet), which is usually served in a garlic-mustard sauce, with a small green salad on the side. Enjoy your trip, and eat well!
All photos are mine. :-) The black and white ones are from my old camera in 2004.
WHERE TO STAY:
First of all, you need to look at a map of Paris. It is a large city, and the main attractions are somewhat spread out. As with most European towns, the oldest area is in the city center, on the islands in the middle of the River Seine. Paris is divided into Arrondisements, or neighborhoods, that are numbered from 1-20. They begin at the city center, and spiral outward like a snail's shell. Each neighborhood has its own personality and attractions, but you don't need to visit them all. My favorites, and the ones I always recommend to friends, are the 5th (Latin Quarter) and the 6th (St. Germain). These neighborhoods are centrally located, very safe, and easy walking distance to Notre Dame, the Louvre, Luxembourg Gardens, and many other sites. They are also somewhat affordable, since they are the students' district, so there are many simple hotels and apartments to choose from. (We use the sites AirBnB.com or FlipKey.com to reserve apartments when we travel with family, but on our trip we were actually able to stay in a hotel! We found a great deal at the hotel Fontaines de Luxembourg.) The best things about these neighborhoods is that they have a huge variety of cafes and restaurants, representing many different kinds of world cuisines, and many offering casual affordable meals. We had breakfast at a little crepe shop every morning, and the taste of pastry and chocolate still lingers in my dreams. :-)Why not stay close to the Eiffel Tower or the Arc de Triomphe? In a word, location. Both those sites are on the Western edge of the city, a little removed from the center. If you stay there, you will be doing even more walking to get to other places, and trust me--you will already be doing miles of walking through museums! Also, the neighborhoods around those two attractions are very expensive, and have more stores than restaurants. So my recommendation is to stay near the center, then use a cab, the metro, or the Hop On/Off buses to get over to sites like the Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, and Montmartre.
LEFT OR RIGHT BANK?
These terms are used to describe the two sides of the River Seine. Facing west, the way the river flows, the Left Bank is the Southern part of Paris-- the artsy neighborhoods of the Latin district, St. Germain, Montparnasse. This is my favorite area--full of cafés, medieval streets, and affordable places to eat and stay. The Right Bank is the Northern side of the city, generally wealthier, fancier, and full of elite shopping districts and beautiful architecture. Sometimes these neighborhoods are considered more quiet and peaceful, while the Left Bank neighborhoods can be noisier and filled with a younger crowd. But honestly, you can find wonderful, romantic, classy areas in any corner of Paris, so this is not a big determining factor when planning your visit.
GETTING AROUND:
Oh, and my French family's advice for estimating the time of a metro ride? Calculate 2 minutes for each stop on the map, and 5 minutes each time you change trains at a station. (This is generally true for the Metro, but NOT for the RER, where stops are much farther apart and you often wait much longer for trains!)
DO I NEED A PARIS PASS? There are several tourist package bundles available to you. Some can save you money, but do your research and choose the correct one for your trip. The Paris Museum Pass was great for us, since my husband and I wanted to cram in as many sights as possible during our brief child-free visit. The best part is that the pass not only covers your entrance fee into the major museums, but also lets you skip lines and go straight into places like the Louvre and Arc de Triomphe, saving you valuable time. I highly recommend this one if you are traveling with adults, but with kids it might not be as beneficial because you will probably go to fewer locations each day. The 2-day pass is 42 Euro per adult. Another option is the Paris Visite Pass, which offers unlimited use on the Paris public transportation. Prices vary based on number of days and how many zones you choose. 1 adult's 1-day metro pass for Zone 1 (almost all of touristy Paris, except the airports) is about 12 Euros. Metro tickets purchased individually are about 1.80 Euro per person per ride. A final option is the Paris Pass, which includes all of the above (free museum entrances, no lines, and metro travel), as well as free entrance onto the River Cruise and the Hop On/Off Bus. The two-day adult pass is 117 Euros. Again, this can still be a deal if you do the River Cruise and use the bus, it just depends how much hopping around you do.
WHAT TO SEE:
Ahhhhhh, so much! Certainly way more than you would be able to cover in a weekend or even a week, but let me try to pick my favorites...
Eiffel Tower
Another amazing Paris experience would be to eat in the gourmet restaurant on the middle levelof the tower. Of course it is expensive, but the food is top-quality and all shaped like the tower. Dinner reservations at the Restaurant Jules Verne also let you skip the lines and get a world-class view. :-)
Arc de Triomphe and Champs EyséesThis famous Arc was built in the 1800's to honor everyone who died in the French Revolution and the Napoleonic Wars. It is in the center of the Place d'Etoile, which is a 12-lane traffic circle in the Northwest of Paris. The Arc stands at the end of the famous Champs Elysées street, and has a straight view all the way to the Louvre. Climbing to the top gives you amazing views in every direction! You are supposed to cross the street underground through a tunnel, but one of my favorite memories was running through the circle with my husband! (Traffic was stopped for the weekly procession of the French Legionaires to renew the eternal flame at the tomb of the unknown soldier, which is directly below the Arc.) Strolling down the Champs Elysées (which means Elysian Fields) you will see the flagship stores of every luxury brand of clothing, purses, perfume, and accessories. It's like 5th Avenue in New York City, but much classier. You can also find a Movie Theater here that plays movies in English if they are an American film marked VO (Version Original).
Louvre
The Louvre Museum is one of the largest museum in the world. The interior corridors contain literally miles of paintings, sculptures, and sketches. When I lived in Paris, I took an art history class where we went to the Louvre once each week, and spent an hour in a different section each time. I'm still not sure I have seen everything there! So... it is honestly way too much to take in during one visit. Most people make the loop to see the top 3 attractions: Mona Lisa (La Jocunde), which is actually really small; Venus de Milo, which is gorgeous, and the Winged Victory/ Nike. If you like Renaissance art, then you will be in heaven here. So many enormous paintings, and a great variety of collections from Egypt, Roman Empire, Medieval Religious art, Napoleonic era decor, and even collections from Spain and Northern Europe. If you go downstairs, you can walk through the Louvre's original Medieval moat. It is exciting to realize that this was originally the palace of the French kings, so the building itself is as interesting and historically important as the art it contains. If you go, decide ahead of time how many hours you have available, and which sections you want to see most. You have to prioritize your visit to save you feet!
Museé d'OrsayTo be honest, I actually prefer this museum over the Louvre. It is the second largest art museum in Paris, but instead of focusing on Renaissance and Medieval art, it focuses on the 1800's styles, especially Impressionism. It also has an amazing sculpture gallery down the center of the museum. There is still a lot here, and you can easily spend a few hours inside, but it's not as overwhelming as the Louvre. And, it has Monet... and Manet... and many other of my favorites.
Notre Dame Cathedral
Other churches worth mentioning:
There are over 100 churches in Paris. Literally. Almost all Catholic. A unique church was built in each neighborhood, and many are centuries old. Not all remain places of worship, as some are now used for public events like lectures or concerts. When I lived there, I was studying Theology, so I visited as many as I could and got involved in multiple church events and activities. Some favorites are:- St. Germain des Pres, which has a Sunday evening Mass and a very active Young Adult group
- Sainte Chapelle, which is a tiny church built to house Jesus's crown of thorns, and has the most brilliant, beautiful stained glass windows in the world! (photo at right)
- Sacré Coeur, the large white church on the top of the hill of Montmartre is a gorgeous 'modern' church, and has perpetual Adoration inside
- The Church of the Miraculous Medal (Notre Dame de la Medaille Miraculeuse) is on Rue du Bac, and Saint Catherine Labouré's body is preserved there.
- Saint Denis, on the Northern edge of the city, houses the tombs of many French kings. It's a little out of the way, but if you stay for a week, very worth a visit to see so many amazing and unique tombs stretching back over centuries.
Seine RiverThis river cuts through the center of Paris, and is crossed by numerous gorgeous bridges. A river cruise is the best way to take them all in without walking for hours (although I spent plenty of hours as a student strolling along the Seine and browsing through the green bookstands along the Left Bank!) There are a few brands of cruises, mostly leaving from the Eiffel Tower and making a round-trip loop. You can go on a Sightseeing Cruise, or even have dinner on the boat! At sunset, it is an amazing way to see the city, starting at 14 Euro per person.
Lock Bridge (Pont des Arts)This is a fairly new tradition that has caught on with tourists at several bridges in Paris, and is even mentioned in some movies. Couples who visit the City of Love write their names on a padlock, then lock it onto the bridge, and throw the key into the river. The largest collection is on the Pont des Arts, just upstream (east) of Notre Dame.
Other Museums: Oh, there are hundreds to choose from, so if you have a favorite artist or interest, look them up in advance. They just may have a museum in Paris! Some of my favorites (these are probably not top visits on a weekend trip, but great ideas for a full week):- Rodin has an indoor/outdoor museum where you can see his amazing sculptures like the Kiss (at left) and the Thinker.
- Monet (Marmottan), in the Western side of the 16th arrondisement has the best collection of Monet's work, from small detailed paintings to giant canvasses that cover an entire wall.
- The Chocolate Museum is relatively new, and presents an interesting history of the development of chocolate, as well as some delicious samples of hot chocolate at the end!
- Moyen Age, museum of the Middle Ages, is really cool because it has the ruins of Roman baths, which are the oldest thing in Paris. It is also known for the Unicorn Tapestries.
- Opera. You can tour the gorgeous Paris Opera House, setting of the fictional book Phantom of the Opera. If you are lucky, you can see a show in this amazing theater!
-Invalides (pictured at right) is the site of Napoleon's tomb, as well as the military museum. We went here at the request of my military history-loving husband, and discovered that it had tons of displays the kids would have enjoyed--full armor of knights, small battlefield replicas, army uniforms, cannons, etc.Gardens: Paris has some amazing gardens! In good weather, this is where all of Paris turns out to relax in the sun, play with children, and enjoy each other's company. My favorite is the Jardins de Luxembourg, near the city center. It is elegant, and classically beautiful, with a large pool in the center and statues along the walkways. It is located just behind the Palace of Luxembourg. Versailles:Speaking of gardens, we must discuss the Palace of Versailles. This gilded palace of Louis XIV has the most gorgeous, formal gardens in France. Its fountains have amazing sculptures of Greek gods spurting showers of water. Inside, the palace is a breath-taking display of wealth, power, and opulence. Each room has painted ceiling murals, gold-gilded doors, and original period furniture and decor, which all culminates in the famous Hall of Mirrors. It is truly an amazing place. But... I wouldn't recommend it as a visit unless you have a full week in Paris. Getting to Versailles requires a 1-hour ride on the RER train (you need to purchase a special ticket to get to Zone 5) and some walking through the town of Versailles to reach the palace. Touring the palace will take at least an hour, and the gardens can take at least another hour. So it is a full daytrip, and you have to balance it into your trip priorities.
Montmartre: The 18th Arrondisement is the hill of Montmartre, and the location of the large white Basilica of Sacré Coeur (Sacred Heart). This used to be the artist's district, and you can still sit for a portrait or a caricature sketch in the main square. Now, the neighborhood is mostly filled with tourists, and the areas around it are a little seedy and less desirable, so even though this is a unique destination and popular with tourists, it is not my favorite. To get up the very steep hill, you can walk up some long stairways, or you can take a funicular tram up the hill. You can use a metro ticket for the funicular.
EuroDisney: Located just outside of Paris, this smaller version of Disney World caters to the European continent with multi-lingual characters, and representatives from a variety of movies and stories. Of course this is considered the kid-friendly thing to do in Paris, and I know many families that have enjoyed it. The park is smaller than Disney World and is just a 1-day trip. It looks fun and quaint, but (just my two cents here...) I think it is silly to spend a day in Paris at EuroDisney! We can wait until we are back in the States to consider planning a trip to the real Disney World.
Cooking Class: If you want to have a unique Paris experience, I recommend taking a cooking class! There are many to choose from, ranging from half-day classes that take you through the markets to purchase your ingredients first, to classes that are just 1 hour long and prepare 1 pastry. Some are perfect for couples, others are child-friendly. And many are in English! The best value and least time-consuming class we found was at L'Atelier des Sens.We were excited to find a Saturday evening class where you prepare (and then eat) a 3-course meal. However, we ended up changing our plans and going to a concert by the Parisian Orchestra instead. :-)
WHAT/ WHERE TO EAT:
A patisserie is a bakery with all the fancy pastries, cakes, and tarts that Paris is famous for. The colorful cookies on the top shelf are Madelaines. They are light and creamy and each color is a different flavor. The chocolate cake is called Opera. All the fruit tarts are delicious. :-) If you just want a simple loaf of bread, a Boulangerie is the kind of bakery that makes bread. A loaf is called un baguette. It's wonderful to stop by a bakery and a cheese shop (fromagerie) and buy the ingredients for a picnic, then go enjoy them in a park. Hemingway called Paris a "Movable Feast," and there is something delicious to eat all the time!Another cheap alternative for food is a grocery store. Monoprix is a large store like Carrefour or Super Wal-Mart, selling everything from groceries to clothes and accessories. It's an easy one-stop shop if your family needs some basic food or supplies.
If you are looking for traditional main dishes, I have several favorites. Moules Frites are mussels and French fries, pictured at right. The mussels are steamed in white wine, and enjoyed right out of the pot with a plate of fries. Another classic is Soup a l'Onion (French Onion Soup,) which is the perfect thing to warm you up on a cold day. Finally, I love a good French roasted chicken (poulet), which is usually served in a garlic-mustard sauce, with a small green salad on the side. Enjoy your trip, and eat well!All photos are mine. :-) The black and white ones are from my old camera in 2004.
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