Christmas in Spain

 CHRISTMAS MARKETS

There are several wonderful Christmas traditions that can be found throughout Spain for most of the month of December. The first is the Christmas Markets. Germany might be world-renowned for its hand-crafted items and crowded Christmas Markets, but Spain shares in this tradition too. Small towns like Rota will have a small market lasting only one weekend, which is like an outdoor fair in the Cathedral square. Vendors set up wooden stalls selling everything from fresh baked goods, jamón and cheese, hand-crafted jewelry, antiques, candy, and toys. There are usually a few rides, games, or activities for children. 

Important Note: Christmas Markets usually open around 10 AM, then close at 2 PM for siesta. They reopen at 6 PM, and remain open until at least 9 PM. Here, you can see that the one in Rota is quiet in the morning, but quite busy in the evening!

For a snack during the market, you can eat churros (fried sugary dough) with hot chocolate. There are also usually rides for children, such as a train ride or carousel.

 

Larger cities like Sevilla will have several large markets in locations throughout the city, with much more food and handicraft options. Popular items include carved Nativity sets or figurines,  ranging from religious to comedic. In Sevilla, the stalls around the Cathedral only sell Nativity figures, but the stalls at the fair in the Plaza Nuevo sell a wider range of toys and gifts. This picture, taken at a stall in Sevilla, shows Holy Week penitents in the Nativity scene, beside a nude beach-goer! 

 

Be warned, a popular Nativity figure in Spain, is the caganer, or pooper. This irreverent figure is especially popular around Barcelona, but can be found in plenty of local markets, too. It appeared in the 1700's, when the realism movement sought to cast a realistic light on idyllic stories like the Nativity. The idea is that when Jesus arrived as a baby, humanity carried on with their every-day tasks--some were making bread, some were selling fruit, and somewhere, someone was pooping. The traditional version is shown at right, but you can find figures of all kinds of athletes, moviestars, and politicians squatting and pooping.

NATIVITY SCENES

Detail of Belen in Arcos

Belen museum in Arcos

The outdoor Nativity in Rota's town square

The Spanish love Nativity scenes, and most families find this decoration more important than a Christmas tree. So you will find one in most Spanish homes, and in many public plazas. Miniature Nativity scenes (called Belen for Bethlehem) are also very popular. There is a year-round Belen museum in Arcos, but during December you can church-hop in towns like Rota, Cadiz, or Sevilla and see a different elaborate scene in each location! Many scenes are lit up and on a timer to display sunrise and sunset. In addition to traditional figures like the Holy Family and the Three Kings, there are also usually detailed scenes of daily life, complete with flickering fires in the ovens and running water at the village well. 

LIVING NATIVITY

 

 A unique tradition in Arcos de la Frontera and Medina Sidonia every December is the living nativity. For one day and night in December (usually the weekend before Christmas), the entire town will be transformed into a re-enactment of Bethlehem at the time of Christ’s birth. Truckloads of dirt fill the town square to turn a parking lot into a dusty version of Palestine. Citizens of these towns set up stalls, fire pits, and action scenes with authentic costumes representing 1st century Jews, Roman soldiers, and all the main Biblical characters. Whether you go during the day or night, it is an impressive experience, but one that comes with lots of crowds and uphill walking.

DECORATIONS

Traditionally, December 6-8 in is a National Holiday (the 6th for Constitution Day, and the 8th for Immaculate Conception.) This stretched holiday is called the bridge, or puente, and it marks the beginning of holiday decorations and events. Nativities will be put up in town squares, lights will be strung over the streets, and home will be decorated with images of the Three Kings. The Spanish do not use Christmas lights as much as Americans do, so you will see the best displays in larger towns like Cadiz, Sevilla, or Gibraltar rather than on individual homes.

  

ZAMBOMBA

Another great Spanish Christmas tradition is the Zambombas. These are musical performances of Spanish Christmas carols, usually accompanied by flamenco dancers and the unique zambomba drum. Sometimes they take place in an auditorium, on a stage, with tickets sold in advance. Other more casual zambombas are in bars and open to anyone who walks by. Or they can be sung with friends together at home.

THREE KINGS

The feast of the three kings, also known as Epiphany, is on January 6. This is a huge celebration for Spanish families, because it is the day children receive their Christmas gifts. Christmas Day is usually a day to share a huge meal with family, but the gifts are exchanged on January 6. Spanish children do not celebrate Santa. Instead, it is the three kings from the Bible who brought gifts to baby Jesus that continue to bring gifts to Spanish children. In the weeks leading up to Three Kings’ Day, figures dressed as one of the kings will appear at malls and town centers for photo opportunities. Children write letters to the three Kings, then a Royal Postman collects and delivers them by ship. On January 5, each local town has a Three Kings’ parade, where the figures move through town on floats and throw candy to children. Correction: they pelt children with tons of candy. It can actually hurt! But the Spanish children love it, and it is a fun celebration. Depending on what day January 6 falls, the Spanish typically have several days off work for this holiday.