We just can't get enough of the Spanish horses. Last week, I wrote about the horse races in Sanlucar. Today, I will share a trip that we took earlier in the summer, when my sister was visiting. My sister Marie always liked horses, so I knew she would love a chance to see the Andalusian horses. There are two options for this. Option 1: the 'dancing horses' show in Jerez. This is supposed to be quite a show, and a wonderful exhibition of the training and discipline that makes these horses world-famous. Only drawbacks: it is rather pricey, and several hours long, so not kid-friendly. Option 2 was the Carthusian horse farm in El Portal. This is the farm where the horses are bred, and they literally control the entire breeding line of Andalusian horses. The horses are not trained here, for the most part, only bred. So the focus is on their health and comfort. They are open regularly for tours of the grounds, but every Saturday at 11AM they do a special tour and show for the public. So, on a bright Saturday in July, that is where we went!
The ranch is called Yeguada de la Cartuja (Ranch of the Cartujano horses). The horses are named after the nearby Carthusian monastery, which handled their breeding and protected the bloodline for hundreds of years, until the ranch was somewhat recently transferred to the direction of a non-Carthusian, Hierro del Bocado. You can see the monastery from the ranch grounds, and I believe it can be visited during certain hours, but the monks and nuns are no longer involved with the horses. In this picture of a breeding mare, you can see the brand of the ranch on her rump.
The Saturday tours begin at 11 AM, and will take you around the somewhat small stable and show area. Tours are available in English, Spanish, French, or German. (and sometimes Italian). You should make reservations in advance, and arrive prior to 11am to pick up your tickets. A family package is available throughout the summer. Tickets are usually 10 Euros per person, but the family package lets you pay for 2 adults and 1 child, and then all additional children are free! During the tour, you can pet any of the approximately 100 horses poking their heads over their stall doors, and you can see the breeding mares in their field. You will also get to see this area, the veterinary clinic and surgery area for the horses. It is just like a human operating room, with an anesthesia mask, table, and equipment. In the back, however, is the padded room where they put the animals to sleep prior to a procedure. It is rarely used, but these horses are worth so much that the ranch will sometimes resort to surgery for treatment.
On the grounds, you can also visit the carriage house, which has a great collection of approximately a dozen different coaches of various sizes and styles. The Cathusian horses, with their long slender bodies, are not designed to be cart-horses. So they cannot pull a heavy coach. They are more often used for racing coaches, or for elegant event like bridal carriages, and taking tourists around the numerous cities in Southern Spain. 
The walking tour lasts less than an hour. As you tour the grounds, there will be horses walking, pulling carriages, and displaying their skills in the outdoor dirt area near the stables. Don't be too concerned about photo ops at that time, because you will have plenty of opportunities to see the exact same horses in the indoor arena for the show. In addition, kids will have an opportunity to ride the coaches for free after the indoor show.
The arena seating is on bleachers, and they will be covered in dust from the performance, so dress accordingly. There is no need to pay for the "special seating" because there are only about 4 rows of seating in all arena areas, and they all have great views of each event.
The show will begin with the heart-pounding experience of the mares entering the ring to the sounds of vibrant flamenco music. These mares, pictured here, are the spoiled divas of the farm. They are gorgeous creatures: sleek, low to the ground, and very long. They are well-fed and well-disciplined. Without any reins or bridles, they responded to the sound of a cracking whip, and ran rapidly in a circled in one direction, then simultaneously wheeled and reverse direction. It was truly beautiful and amazing!
The show is broken into segments each several minutes long. So after the herd of mares has run their circles and displayed their obedience, there will be a demonstration of a carriage. Each horse demonstration is followed by a carriage demonstration, doing dressage formations. So you will get to see about 10 different techniques of horse stepping, and 10 different types of carriages. Explanations of each event are given in Spanish and English, accompanied by vibrant music. This is the Spider coach, an American-style racing coach from the 18th century.
Although the farm focusing on breeding, not training, they are still able to demonstrate some of the unique aspects of the Carthusian horses by including some well-trained horses in the show. This stallion was brought in on a lead, but then released and did his entire performance by responding to verbal commands. He leaped, whirled, RAN, and changed direction. The horses are more closely related to mustangs than to the racing Thoroughbreds we see in the Kentucky Derby, so their movements and actions are light and graceful.
You will also see a traditional exhibition of 8 mares on a line, wearing bells. Each mare is harnessed to the one beside it, but they are still able to run in circles and change direction simultaneously. Apparently, this was the traditional way of showcasing mares to potential breeders. They are led by a caballero (cowboy) in traditional clothing. You can see that the indoor arena has seating all around, and it is shaded and comfortable.
One of our favorite demonstration was 2 caballeros who led their horses in an elaborate coordinated dressage event. The horses bounced, jumped, and essentially danced to the music. Toward the end, the music changed to a militaristic march, and the horses did a high-step march down the center of the arena. I imagine if you went to the show in Jerez you would see more of this type of dancing, so we will have to check that out sometime. But this show, which lasted about an hour and finished around 1PM was heart-pounding and fun. The kids loved it and even thanked me for taking them! I packed a lunch, since only snacks, sodas, and beer (of course!) were available for purchase at the area.El Portal is a small town located only about 25 minutes from base. You begin by heading toward Jerez, but at the traffic circle with the Bodega barrels, you take the first exit towards El Portal. In 5 km, you will begin to enter the town of El Portal. Just before the first traffic light, turn right at the sign for the Yeguada. Follow for another 5 km, and just as you go under an overpass bridge, the entrance to the ranch will be on your left, clearly marked as the Yeguada de la Cartuja. Then just follow the road back to the dirt parking lot.The farm is stroller-friendly. Even though it is built on a steep hill, there are ramps beside all the stairs.
Finally, as an added bonus, if you go in June or July, you will pass fields of blooming sunflowers. It seems to be the thing to do here to take pictures of the beautiful landscape here in Southern Spain. The fields are all over this region. If you drive towards Jerez or south towards Barbate you will encounter them. Pull over, and take a few minutes to stop and smell the flowers! Local farmers won't mind (as long as you respect their crops, which are used for seeds and for sunflower oil). So I hope you get a chance to witness the excitement and beauty of the Carthusian horses soon!
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