A day in Gibraltar

In September, we were excited to have a visit from the kids' Grandparents, my husband's parents. They had never been to Spain before, so we tried to combine simple local outings with fun weekend excursions. One of our favorite trips was spending a day in Gibraltar. This small town, just 1.5 hours from base, is huddled around the base of the famous Rock of Gibraltar (perhaps you recognize it from Prudential commercials?) The colony is actually part of the British empire, so they speak English and serve British food. It is very much like traveling to the Cliffs of Dover, except much more convenient, and much sunnier!

Because Gibraltar does not belong to Spain, you cross an international border when you go from the Spanish town of La Linea (the line) to the British peninsula of Gibraltar. And because England is not part of the EU, this border crossing can be more complicated than going from Spain into Portugal or France.  At the moment, there is political tension between Spain and Gibraltar, so Spain is threatening to impose tariffs on everyone crossing into Spain, and there are long lines of traffic for those who choose to drive across the border. Currently, the easiest option is to simply pull into the large public paid parking lot right before the border, pay a few Euro to park there for the day, and walk across the border into Gibraltar. You do need to bring a passport and go through customs, but there are virtually no lines for foot traffic, and you pass through customs in just a moment, without even stopping to complete paperwork or get a stamp. You will then walk across the actual runway of Gibraltar's airport (the peninsula is so small they had to build the runway extending into the bay, but it was tactically necessary to have an airstrip during World War II). 

Gibraltar has been a strategic location for its entire existence, and it amazing how much of the town's history is influenced by warfare. Originally part of Spain because of geography, Gibraltar was ceded to the British by the Treaty of Utrecht "in perpetuity" in 1713. In exchange, Spain gained the territory of Florida from the British. Of course, Spain assumed that they could take back the city of Gibraltar at any time, and in 1726 they attempted to do so by a land blockade, which was anticipated and repelled by the British. 

The Spanish tried once again to reclaim Gibraltar during the Great Siege from 1779-1783. This time, they blockaded the town from the land and surrounded it with the British Navy. But Gibraltar dug the famous Siege tunnels into the Rock, and placed cannons there to repel the British fleet. The sheer Rock was difficult to attack, and a landing was almost impossible, so after a British sally at night against the Spanish fleet, the Spanish were once again defeated.

During World War II, Gibraltar once again became a contested territory. Franco, the dictator of Spain, was officially neutral, but supported Hitler during World War II. Gibraltar, as a British territory, was one of the few Allied toeholds into "fortress Europe." Hitler was eager to attack Gibraltar from Spain, and paid Franco a large bribe to allow his Nazi troops to move through Spain against Gibraltar. Franco accepted the bribe money, but then refused to allow the troops entrance, protecting Gibraltar from almost certain Nazi domination. During this time, the Allied troops rallied to defend Gibraltar, and built the airstrip across the narrow flat part of Gibraltar's peninsula. Numerous British naval vessels docked in Gibraltar's harbor, waiting for a Nazi attack. The airstrip and harbor are still of international importance today. The city is a major refueling point for ships of all nations heading into the Mediterranean. This photo is taken from the top of the Rock, looking down at the airstrip and the Spanish town of La Linea.

After walking across the airport, visitors then follow the main road into Gibraltar's town center, Casemates Square. It is about a 1 mile walk from the parking to the Square, but totally worth it to avoid traffic lines lasting 1-3 hours. There are currently no fees for pedestrians or cars to cross the border. Along the way, you will pass through the Landport Tunnel, which was originally the ONLY way to enter Gibraltar by land.

Once in Casemates Square, you magically step into a quaint British town. The square is surrounded by pubs serving fish and chips, bangers and mash, pot pies, or delicious curry dishes. Waiters all speak crisp British English, and you can pay in either Euros or Gibraltar Pounds. We were there on a Saturday morning, and a small band of volunteers were dressed as British soldiers and drilling on the Square. I was amazed how instantly relaxing it was to be in an English-speaking environment. I honestly could have sat at a restaurant all afternoon and not minded at all. But of course, more of the city was waiting to be explored, so with our bellies full we strolled through the rest of the town towards the famous cable car at the far end.

Gibraltar is a long, skinny town, with only one long Main Street stretching over a mile along the base of the Rock. It was beautifully restored in the year 2000 to colonial British glory, so the atmosphere is very quaint, but the stores are quite modern, and there is an excellent selection of British clothing, food, and electronic stores for those who want to do some shopping.

There are two ways to reach the top of the Rock: by cable car, or by private tour vans. We expected that the cable car was the cheaper, easier option, and at first ignored the signs for taxis we saw on the street. However, after talking to a tour guide, we quickly realized that the taxis are a much better option. They charge the same rates as you would pay to ride the cable car: 7 Euro to get to the top, and 7 Euro for entrance fees to the sights of St. Michael's Cave and the Great Siege Tunnels, for a total of 14 Euro per person. However, kids are free in the taxi van option, but would have to pay for the cable car. Also, the taxis make for a LOT less walking. The top of the Rock is longer than the town of Gibraltar itself, and there is additional walking to go through the Cave and Tunnels. So it would take hours to walk the top and see everything, but with a taxi you can do that whole trip and see everything at a leisurely pace in just over 1 hour. Finally, having a local tour guide was wonderful. He answered all of our questions, and gave some great insight into what it meant to grow up in Gibraltar. He literally knew the monkeys personally, could call them by name, and tell us which ones were the friendliest and safest to pet. So we felt taking the taxi was by far our best choice. (2015 update: the tours are now 30 Euro per person, kids free. According to the guide, it is still the same cost as the cable ride and combined tickets on the Rock. The town has imposed a new fee of 10 Euros to enter the game preserve, which applies whether you are in the taxis or on foot. And apparently there has been some inflation.) To get a taxi, either ask at the stand by the customs gate--if you want to go up directly before lunch), or walk down Main Street from Casemates square about 1 mile until you get to a small plaza with the taxi signs.

The taxi first took us to the Pillars of Hercules, at the southern tip of the Rock. This is Spain's southernmost point, and you can see Africa across the sea. In ancient history, Gibraltar was considered one of the Pillars of Hercules, with the other one being in Tangier, Morocco. Beyond these pillars, the ancients were not sure that there were any additional lands or civilizations. The pillars are still featured on Spain's coat of arms and national flag. It's a great place for a photo, and I love how my children look so nonchalant and relaxed in such a famous location!

The second location on the tour is St. Michael's cave. This is a natural limestone cave in the Rock. Over time, huge stalactites and stalagmites have formed. During the Great Siege, the cave was used as a bomb-proof hospital. Now, it is used for classical concerts. There are colorful light displays, and secure walkways and ramp areas for tourists. It is gorgeous, but of course, also quite dark in most areas. And we quickly discovered that 2-year-old Alex was afraid of the dark. He cried in a terrified voice most of the time we were inside. :-(  

But once we exited the caves, we saw the first of the Rock's most famous residents: the Barbary apes. These wild monkeys have lived on the Rock for centuries, supposedly brought over on ships from Africa. The locals are very fond and proud of them. The tour guides name them all, and our guide had known several since they were born. He insisted they are not actually apes, but monkeys, since apes have no tails and these creatures actually have short stubby tails. They are quite familiar with tourists, and will eagerly eat any snacks or candy you give them. Of course, they will also climb all over you and harass you, so some people are terrified of them. But our crazy Sophie LOVED them. She just couldn't get enough of the monkeys, and let them climb all over her and hold her hand. She stared at them lovingly and would have been happy staying with them all day. The central home of the apes is the Apes Den, at the crown of the Rock, but they can be found in areas all over the Rock.

The taxi took us to the Apes' Den, near the highest point of the Rock. From here, you can look down the sheer cliff on the east side of the Rock to the Mediterranean Sea below.  The weather is intense at the peak of the Rock: you can literally see the clouds rising on one side and hitting the clear air on the opposite side. The views are stupendous. To dip your toes in the Mediterranean below, however, you would have to get a car or taxi ride to the far side of the peninsula of Gibraltar.  The beach on the Mediterranean side is very narrow, with only a single road running on that side of the pennisula.

The final stop on the taxi tour, and one of the most important attractions at Gibraltar, is the Great Siege tunnels. These were carved by hand into the Rock during the Great Siege of 1779-1783. The tunnels allowed cannons to be brought up into the Rock, which could fire upon the Spanish Armada below. Several of the cannons are still present in the tunnels, and visitors can peak out the 'windows' into the harbor far below. There are also several historical displays and wax figures throughout the tunnels, showing how they were constructed and explaining the politics and military strategy used during the Siege. The tunnels stretch for over a mile inside the Rock. The walk is very interesting and very informative, giving a great sense of what makes Gibraltar so unique and so important.

In summary, our trip to Gibraltar was amazing. The grandparents loved the unique day trip, the kids loved all the fun new opportunities, and we loved experiencing a little piece of British culture. We highly recommend Gibraltar to anyone, and we will probably return several times during our stay in Spain. It is amazing to be only 1.5 hours from such a fun city with such interesting history.

Autumn in Southern Spain

I grew up in the Mid-Atlantic states on America's East Coast. So to me, "fall" means colorful leaves, chilly weather, apple picking, corn harvests, and hay rides. It smells like burning leaves, bonfires, and steaming apple cider, and it tastes like pumpkin bread, s'mores, and roasted turkey. Fall is back-to-school, Halloween, and Thanksgiving-- one long season of celebrating harvests and food, with field trips to the apple orchard and pumpkin patch, and parties with family and friends.

In Spain, fall is NONE of that. The Spanish literally would not understand a single element of the above paragraph, except back-to-school. That's it. Fall in Spain is simply the beginning of the school year and the end of the tourist season, when the locals get their beach towns back to themselves. It is slightly colder. We need jackets in the morning, but by afternoon it is back in the 70's and sunny, even in mid-November. Sometimes, autumn is the start of the rainy season, although this particular year has been sunny and beautiful with a whopping 3 days of rain all fall. It is just a more comfortable version of summer, with the necessity of sending children to school instead of to the beach.

The Spanish do not celebrate Halloween. It is essentially a British celebration, brought to America by early settlers. But All Hallows' Eve was never a holiday in Catholic Spain. They celebrate the next day, All Saints' Day, as a national holiday from work, and an opportunity to visit graveyards and place flowers on their relatives' graves. But jack-o-lanterns, costumes, and trick-or-treating are not part of the local culture or customs. Of course, in recent years, the towns around the Naval Base have watched the Americans celebrate this strange holiday, and many Spanish families come to base in costume on Halloween to get free candy from the Americans who live in base housing. To them, it is like Carnival--a day to dress up and act silly. But they can't comprehend our obsession with cooking, carving, and celebrating pumpkins. There is some Spanish squash, but no typical big orange pumpkins. (We buy ours at the commissary, and they are probably flown in from Germany). So of course there are no pumpkin patches, no hay rides, and certainly no bonfires--the burn ban can't be lifted until it rains a lot, which it hasn't...

The Spanish also don't celebrate Thanksgiving, for obvious reasons--it is an American celebration of the colonists surviving their first year in the New World. Turkey is not very common in this part of Spain, but at least the concept of gathering for a large family meal is not unusual. However, they would probably start their celebration at 10 pm, not mid-afternoon. And of course, the Spanish don't play football. Well, they might call it that, but it's soccer.

And finally, the Spanish don't start celebrating Christmas in October, the way American stores do. There is no mention of Christmas anywhere until, well, December. The Feast of the Immaculate Conception on December 8th is the official start of the Christmas season to the Spanish. So they have to ask the Americans to kindly wait until December to begin decorating their homes and looking for Christmas trees.

So this is probably the ONLY time of year when the Americans have more holidays than the Spanish. Sure, they have local religious celebrations and town festivals scattered throughout the Fall, but it is nothing compared to the never-ending festivities of Spring and Summer. This is also the one time of year when I feel most isolated from my homeland and more like a foreigner than usual. You never realize how much of your life is cultural until you live somewhere else. I thought "autumn" was a universal concept, but of course if I took the time to consider, residents of Florida or Arizona would not have the same sensory reactions to fall that I do. So it has been a good time to enjoy my family, enjoy events on base, and enjoy the culture I grew up with. Because hey, the Spanish don't have a monopoly on holidays. Americans have our own version of fun, too. And we find ways to celebrate our own customs and holidays even in a land of continual sun and palm trees.

1 year in Spain

Today marks one year that we have lived in Spain. What a glorious, adventure-filled, busy, and fulfilling year it has been!

One year ago today, we were getting off a plane, blinking in the strong Spanish sunlight, staring in awe at Rota's colorful buildings, and smiling at every palm tree. We were also immediately informed about the terrorist attack in Benghazi, and told that my husband would be swept away to work long shifts at work, while we were left to move, get settled, and find our way around mostly on our own.

The first month was hard. Very hard. Everything was a challenge. I learned to drive stick shift the day after we arrived, because that's what we had in the rental car. There was such an enormous amount of  paperwork, checking in, and registration to be done... And we had to do it all with 3 kids in the car. Everything I tried to get done seemed to take 2 or 3 more steps than anticipated, making for frustrated exhaustion over simple tasks like getting money from an ATM, using a phone, getting groceries. Our household goods didn't arrive for the first month of our stay, so we camped out in our huge empty house, desperately trying to entertain 3 children who weren't in school yet with a limited supply of books and toys. Insanity. Did I mention that my husband was working 12-hour shifts and sleeping at work? Yes, a year ago we were not having fun.

But...eventually we found our way, received our furniture and our minivan, bought a GPS, enrolled children in preschool, made friends, joined groups, developed routines... 

And travelled. 

Our first big trip was to Portugal at Christmas. We didn't really feel like we were in a settled routine until January. Then it was the cold rainy season, so we couldn't go anywhere until March. But since then, boy have we been busy! Visitors, and day trips, and family adventures together. Late dinners in town, walks along the beach, soaking in the sun, the culture, the tastes, the experience.

And it has been wonderful. 

I was thinking about making a list of things I miss, but it honestly isn't much. We have been blessed with family visits, and we keep in touch with phone calls and emails as well as we did when we lived in North Carolina. I miss some friends, but I have made some new ones. Occasionally I miss certain American food, but I can make most dishes with Commissary ingredients, and the food here is always good.

But things I have gotten used to? That is a longer list.

- roundabouts. Love them. Fewer traffic lights, more opportunities to find your exit.

- palm trees waving in the wind

- an ocean view during my runs

- going for walks on the boardwalk and getting ice cream

- watching the sun set over the Atlantic

- saying gracias, adios, vale, claro

- putting olive oil and salt on bread

- eating olives with pits for snack

- naked kids at the beach

- tiny narrow streets and parking spots the exact dimension of my van

- strangers touching my children in the street and saying 'Que guapo!'

- buying seafood that is still staring at me, then taking it home and cooking and eating it

- packing up snacks and activities, then taking my kids on exploring adventures of new cities

- living near 13th century churches, Roman ruins, and Moorish castles

- adding Sprite to wine to make instant tinto de verano

- no commercials on TV

- walking my daughter to and from school

- lots and lots of sunlight 

- telling my kids to 'ven aqui!' And hold my Mano.

So yes, it has been a pretty great year, and we are looking forward to 2 more! :-)

A weekend in Toledo!

The medieval city of Toledo, once the capital of Spain, is located in the center of the country, about an hour Southwest of Madrid. It is a gorgeous city, and we chose to spend a weekend there for our Anniversary a few weeks ago. Yes, most people see Toledo as a day trip from Madrid, and there are numerous trains and busses that run between Toledo and the capital every day. However, we have come to realize that our family does things at a slower pace, so a day trip for some people is a perfect weekend getaway for us. We preferred to spend one weekend relaxing in one place and enjoying the city, without driving back and forth to other points of interest (and there are many in that region! Segovia and Avila are each about an hour away. We considered adding them to the itinerary, but that would have been too much driving.) From Rota, Toledo is a straightforward 5 hour drive, and the only toll is the one near Sevilla.

Toledo is famous for several reasons. First, the city is surrounded on 3 sides by the Tagus River, so it has not expanded or changed much since the Middle Ages. The streets are still ridiculously narrow, designed for pedestrians long before motorized traffic. Therefore, it is NOT advised to drive in Toledo. Get very clear directions to your hotel, verify that there is parking somewhere, and then don't plan to use your car again until you leave. The upsides to this are that the city is very quiet, and still maintains huge amounts of Medieval charm. Besides, you can cover the whole city easily on foot, so there is no need for taxis. The second famous element is the Alcazar castle (pictured here at the top of the hill), which has been a stronghold for millenia--for the Romans in the 3rd century, the Moors in the 1000's, the Christian Kings in the 1500's, and it even withheld a siege of Republicans during the Spanish Civil War in the 1940's. It was mostly destroyed after that, and has been rebuilt, and is now an army museum. But it certainly dominates the skyline, just as it was painted by El Greco in the late 1500's.

Speaking of El Greco, he is one of the city's most famous inhabitants. The name means "The Greek," and was the nickname used by the famous painter Domenikos Theotokopoulos, who moved to Toledo toward the end of his career, in 1577. Although he struggled to gain approval from the Spanish court, and was criticized by his contemporaries for some of his unusual styles and ideas, he is now universally renowned for his use of light and color (he studied in Italy under Titian), and for his elongated human figures used in altar pieces. Toledo is quite proud of him, and has several places where you can view his work. His famous painting "The Burial of Count Orgaz" is an enormous work covering a whole wall in the church of Santo Tome. We stopped in to see it (paying 2 Euro per adult, kids free) and it was totally worth it to see the amazing details and use of color in the original setting. There is also the Museo El Greco, a recently restored and reopened museum on the Western edge of the city. 

The Museo El Greco is not at the location of the artist's actual home in Toledo, but the museum has been built to imitate his house as much as possible, and to give insight into wealthy households in the 1500's. No longer entered through the old stone doorway, the museum now has a fancy glass facade entrance. Entrance fees were about 5 Euro per adult, kids free. There are not a lot of Greco works here--his paintings have been scattered throughout the world. However, there is one long gallery with all the originals of his painting of Christ and the Apostles. Greco is famous as a portrait artist, and managed to put quite a bit of expression and personality into the Apostle's portraits. At the end of the room stands another famous work, "Peter in Tears." You can see by the bright colors, the light surrounding the angel at the left, and the shaft of sunlight over the saint's head that this is certainly a Greco piece. St. Peter's eyes are truly glassy ad shiny with tears, and it is thought that he is expressing repentance over his denial of Christ, while in the background the angel is announcing the news of the Resurrection to Mary Magdalene. Conveniently, my husband was able to use this as a project for an art class he is currently taking online. The kids did alright, but it was probably not the highlight of their trip.

Something the kids did enjoy immensely was window shopping, and Toledo is a perfect city for this. The two specialty products of Toledo are swords and damasque (the unique art of inlaying gold on burnished silver), and both can be viewed in almost every shop in every area of the city. The city was a center of sword-making since Roman times, when the weapons for the Punic Wars were forged here. (Although the swords in the picture are replicas from The Lord of the Rings movies, you can see plenty of traditional bejeweled swords in the shops as well.) The reason these beautiful art forms flourished here is that for several centuries of Moorish rule, the Muslims, Jews, and Christians all lived side-by-side peacefully in Toledo. It is called the "city of three cultures," because all three were allowed to thrive and influence each other. Damasque, for example, was an Islamic art form, that used gold provided by the Jewish community, and images and scenes provided by the Christian community. You can now see gorgeous damasque plates, jewelry, wall art, and medical tools because of the cooperation between the cultures. In this way, Toledo is unique among Spanish cities. In most places, once the Christians reconquered in the 1500's, Moorish buildings were destroyed and their culture erased. While the Jews and Muslims were eventually driven out of Toledo by a Christian majority, it was not a destructive removal, and the cultural respect remained. So you can see numerous Moorish mudejar style buildings, and their architectural influence is more evident than in most cities in Southern Spain.

Another fun thing to shop for in Toledo is pastries and marzipan. Marzipan is a sweet paste made from almonds and honey, which can be formed into almost any shape or design. Here, at one of the most upscale candy shops in the city, it was used to create a replica of the city gate! It is more frequently seen shaped into small fruits or animals, which can be dyed in bright colors. Frankly, it is not my favorite treat. It is sweet, but with an interesting gritty texture. The legend is that it was created by nuns during one of Toledo's many famines. They did not have any flour, so they ground up almonds (which grow plentifully in this region) and mixed them with honey to create a substance that was nourishing and supposedly saved the city. If marzipan is not your fancy, you can still find numerous other pastries and treats made by nuns and sold in pastry shops throughout the city. In addition to almonds and honey, citrus flavors are common, as well as cinnamon. A Toledana is a pastry roll filled with thick almond jelly.

One of our favorite activities in the city was going on the "train" ride. This is actually more like a trolley, shaped like a train, that drives on city streets and takes you across the river to get wonderful views from every side of the city. It makes a big circle from the Plaza Zocodover, and the trip lasts just under 1 hour. Their website is: Toledo Train Vision. I think adult fees were 6 Euro, and we only paid 3 Euro for our 5-year old (younger kids were free), so for 15 Euro the whole family got a break from walking, had some amazing views and photo opportunities, and we were even able to listen to historical information in English through their headsets. The headsets were probably the children's favorite part. They were so proud to each have their own. We all shared a long bench, so I sat on the right side to get the best pictures.

The train drove us around the Alcazar, then past the main gate and out of the city. We crossed the traffic bridge, and had excellent views of the pedestrian bridge, which was once the only way to enter the city. It was so cool to see the city from an outside perspective and hear some of the interesting history. We also got to see some of the villas in the hills around the city, which are impressive. About halfway through the tour, the train stopped at a beautiful overlook, near the place El Greco painted his skyline picture,where you could take the famous panoramic shots of the city.

It was funny for two reasons. First, I had been at this exact overlook during a high school trip to Spain in 2000. It was so cool to be sharing that moment with my family now, when I had once smiled and linked arms with high school girlfriends. Secondly, our apartment where we spent the weekend was right near the Cathedral, and had a gorgeous tower room, with 360 degree views of the city. From our tower, we could see the train stop every hour, and see people's camera flashes from the vista. So we took our own pictures and got a kick out of finding our apartment from the overlook. 



I have saved the best for last: Toledo's Cathedral. Dedicated to the Virgin Mary, of course, it is an amazing structure that took over 200 years to build--from the 1200's to the 1500's, which was Toledo's Golden Age. So you see every style of Renaissance art inside: Gothic, High Gothic, and Baroque. It is one of the most impressive Gothic cathedrals in Spain, and certainly a refreshing break from the simplistic brick churches in most of Southern Spain. So light and tall and airy!  The stained glass windows are gorgeous. There are more than 700 in the Cathedral, and their colors are phenomenal!


The best time to visit the Cathedral is probably in the morning, when the sunlight shines through the Transparente. This is a unique Baroque element in the Cathedral. In the 1500's, a huge hole was cut into the ceiling to allow more light to shine on the back of the altarpiece. The area around the transparente is decorated with painted Baroque saints and angels, as well as carved 3-D figures surrounding the hole, making it look like it is truly a window to heaven. A small hole is also present in the altarpiece, near the tabernacle, so in the morning the sun lights up the tabernacle from behind. In the photo at right, the transparente is in the upper-left corner, and you are looking at the outside of the elaborately carved wall that surrounds the altar on 3 sides. Peek through the wall, and you get a glimpse of the Gothic golden retable, or elaborate wall of paintings behind the altar, that stretch from floor to ceiling, and show important scenes from Jesus's life painted in bright colors on gold and silver backgrounds. It is truly gorgeous and breathtaking. We came on Sunday morning for Mass, and were disappointed to celebrate in the small Eucharistic chapel. When we returned in the afternoon for a tour, the lighting was much more dim.

The Cathedral has a number of other additional interesting sights. In the Treasury you can see an enormous monstrance,  over 10 feet tall, made from 18 kilos of gold and 183 kilos of silver! It is used in the city's Corpus Christi procession, in early June, which is their largest annual festival. Apparently the streets are decorated weeks in advance, and the monstrance is processed carrying the Body of Christ. The Treasury is located in one corner of the Cathedral, and admission is included with your general tour ticket. Tickets are 6 Euro per adult (kids free), and can be purchased in the shop directly across from the tour entrance, on the Southern side of the church.


We were also very interested to see the Chapterhouse, or Salla Capitular, in the Cathedral. This room, designed and built around 1500, serves as the meeting place for Spain's bishops. Although Toledo ceased to be the political capital of the country when the Kings moved to Madrid in the 1600's, Toledo is still the religious center of Spain. So the Cardinal here has authority over all the other Spanish bishops or cardinals. On all 4 walls are portraits of the Archbishops of Toledo, literally going from the present back to Saint Eugene in 300 A.D.! What a amazing piece of Church history, to see that the authority of the bishops can be traced back in an unbroken line for several millenia.


A final note: you will see the figure of the 2-headed eagle throughout the cathedral: carved on doors, carved into stone portals, and flown on flags. This image is the symbol of the city Toledo, and part of their crest. The 2-headed eagle is a mythical character. It is the same symbol used by Charles V, the Holy Roman Emperor, who was King Charles I of Spain. Traditionally, the arms of the kings were the symbol of the city of Toledo as well, so when a Spanish king became Emperor, Toledo retained his arms. The imperial crown is above the eagle's heads, and you will also frequently see them wearing a coat with the Lion image of King Ferdinand and the Castle image of Queen Isabella, the royal couple who defeated the Moors and commissioned Columbus to sail to the New World. Ferdinand and Isabella intended to be buried in Toledo, and built themselves a beautiful chapel overlooking the city's secondary (Eastern) bridge. However, after they successfully defeated the Moors in Grenada, they decided to be buried in Grenada instead, and that is where you will find them today.



In summary, Toledo is an amazing, gorgeous, enjoyable city, with tons of Medieval charm, and lots to entertain lovers of art, history, or shopping. Strolling around any area of the city, particularly the old quarter, is unforgettable. A note of caution: summer in central Spain is much hotter than the weather on the coast, so Toledo is usually 10 degrees (Fahrenheit) warmer than Rota. It was about 100 degrees each day during our August visit. Luckily, the Toledanos are used to this, and accommodate by shuttering their windows as soon as the sun comes up, and then leaving them open all night long. Of course they take a long siesta in the afternoons, and we did too. Walking around was not so bad either, because the roads are so narrow that the sun barely shines on most of the narrow alleys, so you can easily stay in the shade. The plus side to all this is that August is QUIET. Most of the Spanish are on vacation, and escape from the city if they can. Most of the tourists come in the Spring and the Fall, so while there were certainly tourists everywhere we went, there were no lines and few crowds. So as long as you have some air conditioning in your hotel or apartment, don't be intimidated! I highly recommend a weekend in Toledo over a weekend in Madrid, for anyone who wants to relax in a charming historic location, and just soak up hundreds of years of history. This town was totally our style, and we had a wonderful time!

Pros and Cons of living on base

As new families are moving to Rota, I frequently hear the question, "which is better: living in town, or living on base?" Well, each have their advantages, and downsides, and you will have to weigh how many sacrifices you are willing to make.

If you want to live in town, that is definitely the best way to become part of the culture, and the kids would learn a lot of Spanish. The military provides a housing allowance for anyone who lives off base, and the overseas calculation for our family would have easily covered monthly rent in most houses in this area. If you wish, there are houses with beach views, houses with built-in swimming pools, and houses with beautiful gardens maintained by the landlord, all a short commute from base. Spanish are extremely welcoming, and many Americans have great relationships with their landlords, being practically adopted by them and invited to family celebrations.

Becoming part of Spanish culture also has a lot of challenges. Not only do you have to learn the language, but it will also mean changing a lot of family routines. The Spanish are on a completely different daily schedule and eat their meals at much later times than Americans. They stay up much later, often until 1am, even with children! My husband works almost exclusively with Americans, on a more traditional American 9-5 schedule, so living in town would be a big adjustment for us.

I would have been up to the challenge of learning Spanish and putting in the work of becoming part of their culture, but I wasn't sure the rest of our young family was ready for the challenge. We enjoy Spanish food and culture, but we are more interested in being occasional tourists than in being continual residents in a foreign land. When we found out that we would qualify for the newly-renovated 4-bedroom houses on base, that made the decision easy for us. Our house on base is huge, with more than enough room and storage space for our family. We have a large driveway with plenty of parking, and a large fenced-in yard with automatic sprinklers. (Caveat: not all base housing is like ours. We are E-6 with 4 children. Many houses on base are smaller and older, which definitely make living in town more appealing.)

For the most part, we love it. There are times, especially in the beautiful summer, when some of my friends' houses seem to have a lot of perks. But to keep myself from jealousy, here are the top reasons I like living on base:

1. Free utilities. On military bases, electricity and water are provided at no cost. And without limitations. So we can use as much as we want without consequence. This is good, since children frequently leave the door open when the AC is running, or let the water run. Off base, utility bills are quite high, and can vary greatly from month to month, making it frustrating to budget. Some months, bills can be several hundred Euros in off-base housing. All we pay is $60 per month for our phone/Internet.

2. Heat and Air conditioning. You may not realize how important central heat and air are to you until you don't have them. In Southern Spain, the climate is fairly mild, so heating and AC are not standard in most houses. Sure, you can find it in some of the more modern expensive rentals, but for the most part off-base housing is quite cold in winter, and unpleasantly hot in summer. You can use space heaters and fireplaces, or fans, but when it gets up to 100 degrees, or down to 40 degrees F in winter, we are happy to hide inside.

3. Quiet. Our area of base is very deserted and quiet. We don't share a wall or a backyard with anyone. So there is usually very little noise, and we have no trouble letting the kids take naps at their usual time. In town, especially in summer, you should be prepared for a lot of noise all night from beach tourists, and from the local residents who regularly stay out late-- until 5 AM! Spanish kids nap from 3-5 pm, so if you have Spanish neighbors you should be respectfully quiet during those hours.

4. No line-drying. All base housing includes a full-sized washer and dryer. Americans take this for granted, but the washing system is very different in Spain. Most residents line-dry their clothing, either because their house doesn't have a dryer, or because the electrical costs are just so high. This is fine in summer, when it is sunny for 4-5 months straight, but very difficult to time during the winter rainy season. Some houses in Spain use cold water wash cycles only to conserve heating costs, or they use much smaller machines to conserve water. Of course you can discuss this with your landlord, but it is something to be aware of. And yes, there is always the option to use a Laundromat, which most people off-base have to do sometimes, but with a family of 6 that is not realistic for me!

5. Full sized kitchen. This is a picture of our kitchen in base housing. It includes a regular oven and stove, a dishwasher, a fridge/freezer, and even an additional stand-alone freezer. This is great for our family of 6 people. But Americans are spoiled. Most Spanish families make do with much less in the kitchen. Dishwashers are not standard, ovens and refrigerators are much smaller, and in general less energy is used. Again, this is a matter of your own needs and expectations. If you are willing to act more like the Spanish: shop for groceries daily, cook smaller portions, and hand-wash dishes, then you won't mind living in town. If you want American conveniences, then you might be happier on base. One big warning: ask how to use your stove before you move in! I see questions all the time from people who can't figure out the pictures on their oven!

6. Short commute. The base is small, only a few miles across. So even though housing is on one side and my husband's work is on the other, it is only 3 miles away. So he often bikes or runs into work, and I can walk or bike with the kids to many base activities. We like the active lifestyle, and the fact that my husband can easily come home for breakfast, lunch, or to pick up a needed item. The towns that border base are Rota and El Puerto de Santa Maria. You can easily find great housing about 15 minutes away from base in either of those towns. But after living off-base at our last station, we knew we would see my husband a lot less during the day if our house was any farther away from his work. Also, if you have kids involved in multiple activities on base, like school, sports, dance, etc, you will find yourself spending a lot of time on base anyway, and "killing time" between activities since there is no reason to drive home. I like being able to accomplish a lot of errands without spending much time driving.

7. Maintenance Free. All military housing is maintained by the base, so you don't have to pay for or worry about repairs. Usually, a call to the housing office can get things fixed within a few days. You are allowed to paint, but you must re-paint in white before checking out. Off base, maintenance is handled by a landlord. Sometimes this works out fine, but often Americans get fed up with the "manana" attitude the Spanish have about taking care of things 'tomorrow,' which rarely actually means tomorrow. Numerous holidays and a relaxed work attitude mean that Americans need to be very patient and flexible about maintenance. In addition, sometimes American's impressions of maintenance 'problems' differ from what the Spanish landlords perceive of as their responsibility, so it can be a touchy subject.

8. Compatible electric plugs. In the States, we have 110 volt electrical plugs. In most of Europe, the plugs have a different shape, and the outlets have 220 volts. Conveniently, the base housing for Americans has all American sized plugs, with 110 volt outlets. So anything you bring with you can be plugged in and work right away in your base housing. In town, you have to use not only an adjuster to plug American appliances into a Spanish wall, but you also have to use a transformer to step down the voltage so you won't fry your appliances. You will be provided with 2 transformers from housing, and you can buy more, but that means you have to be very conscious of only plugging 1 thing in at a time, and unplugging it once it is charged. A minor nuisance, but one that is avoided in base housing.

9. Convenience. The base has almost everything you need: American food at the commissary, clothes and home decor at the NEX, schools, gym, gas station, playgrounds, sports teams, music and dance lessons, and occasional entertainment. Of course, most of this is available in towns as well, just in Spanish. So each family has to decide if joining Spanish schools, sports teams, and local clubs is right for them. We like the convenience of having everything within a few miles or even walking distance. And we like the quality of American education and activities. We can go off base for Spanish food and culture whenever we WANT to, but we don't HAVE to for everyday errands. But if you are willing to be more involved in Spanish life, then living in town and being able to walk to the beach and numerous restaurants might appeal more to you.

10. Not affected by changing Overseas Housing Allowance. The OHA is calculated by rank, similar to BAH if you live off-base in the States. If you live on base, you don't receive this. However, whether you live on or off base, you will receive COLA (cost of living allowance) which is several hundred extra dollars per month to accommodate for the higher cost of living here than at an average American base.) If you live in town, you receive OHA to pay your rent and utility bills. The allotments are pretty generous, and are usually plenty to cover your rent and utilities, as long as you are savvy and don't waste electricity. (You do not receive any money back if you come in under your OHA, it is just a maximum figure.) However, with the uncertain budgets in the military, sequestration furlough cuts, and the possible changes in OHA next year, I would not want to be locked into a 1-year rental agreement in town. Just because your military benefits change does not mean your Spanish landlord will adjust your rent. So if you decide to live in town, make sure you can afford your rent, and have a comfortable cushion for unexpected salary changes.

So I hope this has helped anyone moving to Rota weighing their options about whether to live on base or in town. At least I hope you now know what to look for, and what questions to ask a potential landlord. And if you're already here and looking around in jealousy as more friends move off base, remember the next time you don't pay an electric bill or do laundry on a rainy day that there are a lot of blessings to living on base.

Up close and personal with Cathusian horses

We just can't get enough of the Spanish horses. Last week, I wrote about the horse races in Sanlucar. Today, I will share a trip that we took earlier in the summer, when my sister was visiting. My sister Marie always liked horses, so I knew she would love a chance to see the Andalusian horses. There are two options for this. Option 1: the 'dancing horses' show in Jerez. This is supposed to be quite a show, and a wonderful exhibition of the training and discipline that makes these horses world-famous. Only drawbacks: it is rather pricey, and several hours long, so not kid-friendly. Option 2 was the Carthusian horse farm in El Portal. This is the farm where the horses are bred, and they literally control the entire breeding line of Andalusian horses. The horses are not trained here, for the most part, only bred. So the focus is on their health and comfort. They are open regularly for tours of the grounds, but every Saturday at 11AM they do a special tour and show for the public. So, on a bright Saturday in July, that is where we went!

The ranch is called Yeguada de la Cartuja (Ranch of the Cartujano horses). The horses are named after the nearby Carthusian monastery, which handled their breeding and protected the bloodline for hundreds of years, until the ranch was somewhat recently transferred to the direction of a non-Carthusian, Hierro del Bocado. You can see the monastery from the ranch grounds, and I believe it can be visited during certain hours, but the monks and nuns are no longer involved with the horses. In this picture of a breeding mare, you can see the brand of the ranch on her rump.

The Saturday tours begin at 11 AM, and will take you around the somewhat small stable and show area. Tours are available in English, Spanish, French, or German. (and sometimes Italian). You should make reservations in advance, and arrive prior to 11am to pick up your tickets. A family package is available throughout the summer. Tickets are usually 10 Euros per person, but the family package lets you pay for 2 adults and 1 child, and then all additional children are free! During the tour, you can pet any of the approximately 100 horses poking their heads over their stall doors, and you can see the breeding mares in their field. You will also get to see this area, the veterinary clinic and surgery area for the horses. It is just like a human operating room, with an anesthesia mask, table, and equipment. In the back, however, is the padded room where they put the animals to sleep prior to a procedure. It is rarely used, but these horses are worth so much that the ranch will sometimes resort to surgery for treatment.

On the grounds, you can also visit the carriage house, which has a great collection of approximately a dozen different coaches of various sizes and styles. The Cathusian horses, with their long slender bodies, are not designed to be cart-horses. So they cannot pull a heavy coach. They are more often used for racing coaches, or for elegant event like bridal carriages, and taking tourists around the numerous cities in Southern Spain.

The walking tour lasts less than an hour. As you tour the grounds, there will be horses walking, pulling carriages, and displaying their skills in the outdoor dirt area near the stables. Don't be too concerned about photo ops at that time, because you will have plenty of opportunities to see the exact same horses in the indoor arena for the show. In addition, kids will have an opportunity to ride the coaches for free after the indoor show.

The arena seating is on bleachers, and they will be covered in dust from the performance, so dress accordingly. There is no need to pay for the "special seating" because there are only about 4 rows of seating in all arena areas, and they all have great views of each event.

The show will begin with the heart-pounding experience of the mares entering the ring to the sounds of vibrant flamenco music. These mares, pictured here, are the spoiled divas of the farm. They are gorgeous creatures: sleek, low to the ground, and very long. They are well-fed and well-disciplined. Without any reins or bridles, they responded to the sound of a cracking whip, and ran rapidly in a circled in one direction, then simultaneously wheeled and reverse direction. It was truly beautiful and amazing!

The show is broken into segments each several minutes long. So after the herd of mares has run their circles and displayed their obedience, there will be a demonstration of a carriage. Each horse demonstration is followed by a carriage demonstration, doing dressage formations. So you will get to see about 10 different techniques of horse stepping, and 10 different types of carriages. Explanations of each event are given in Spanish and English, accompanied by vibrant music. This is the Spider coach, an American-style racing coach from the 18th century.

Although the farm focusing on breeding, not training, they are still able to demonstrate some of the unique aspects of the Carthusian horses by including some well-trained horses in the show. This stallion was brought in on a lead, but then released and did his entire performance by responding to verbal commands. He leaped, whirled, RAN, and changed direction. The horses are more closely related to mustangs than to the racing Thoroughbreds we see in the Kentucky Derby, so their movements and actions are light and graceful.

You will also see a traditional exhibition of 8 mares on a line, wearing bells. Each mare is harnessed to the one beside it, but they are still able to run in circles and change direction simultaneously. Apparently, this was the traditional way of showcasing mares to potential breeders. They are led by a caballero (cowboy) in traditional clothing. You can see that the indoor arena has seating all around, and it is shaded and comfortable.

One of our favorite demonstration was 2 caballeros who led their horses in an elaborate coordinated dressage event. The horses bounced, jumped, and essentially danced to the music. Toward the end, the music changed to a militaristic march, and the horses did a high-step march down the center of the arena. I imagine if you went to the show in Jerez you would see more of this type of dancing, so we will have to check that out sometime. But this show, which lasted about an hour and finished around 1PM was heart-pounding and fun. The kids loved it and even thanked me for taking them! I packed a lunch, since only snacks, sodas, and beer (of course!) were available for purchase at the area.

El Portal is a small town located only about 25 minutes from base. You begin by heading toward Jerez, but at the traffic circle with the Bodega barrels, you take the first exit towards El Portal. In 5 km, you will begin to enter the town of El Portal. Just before the first traffic light, turn right at the sign for the Yeguada. Follow for another 5 km, and just as you go under an overpass bridge, the entrance to the ranch will be on your left, clearly marked as the Yeguada de la Cartuja. Then just follow the road back to the dirt parking lot.The farm is stroller-friendly. Even though it is built on a steep hill, there are ramps beside all the stairs.

Finally, as an added bonus, if you go in June or July, you will pass fields of blooming sunflowers. It seems to be the thing to do here to take pictures of the beautiful landscape here in Southern Spain. The fields are all over this region. If you drive towards Jerez or south towards Barbate you will encounter them. Pull over, and take a few minutes to stop and smell the flowers! Local farmers won't mind (as long as you respect their crops, which are used for seeds and for sunflower oil). So I hope you get a chance to witness the excitement and beauty of the Carthusian horses soon!

Horse Races in Sanlucar

Every August, in the nearby town of Sanlucar de Barremeda, there is a series of horse races on the beach! The races, called carreras de caballos de Sanlucar, have been held at this location since about 1845, so they are one of the oldest horse races in Spain. They are scheduled around the low tide on the Guadalquivir river, around 6:30 pm, and last until sunset, around 10pm. The races are about 1 mile, so they only last a few moments, but there is a new race every 45 minutes.This is a great event for the whole family. Enjoy a day at the beach, a beautiful sunset, and some thrilling horse races!




To attend the races, you do not need any tickets. Spaces on the beach are available on a first-come basis.
If you go anytime before 5pm, the Spanish will still be at siesta, so there will be plenty of room. On the other hand, if you are going with children and don't want to wait around for hours, you will still be able to squeeze in anywhere after 7pm. There are stands set up near the finish line, and for 10 Euro per person you can have an unobstructed view, plus enjoy some food and entertainment from the cassettas. But anywhere else on the beach is free. Bring some beach toys and snacks, or buy drinks and snacks from the vendors pushing wheelbarrows along the beach.

Parking is available at Sanlucar's main underground parking lot. Follow the feria grounds 2 blocks to the riverfront, and you will be near the starting line. Or, when the reach the river, turn left and walk up to one mile, and you will reach the finish line.






Once at the beach, you will see numerous home-made cardboard stands. These are betting booths, run by the Spanish children. The bets are small, usually just pocket change, but the kids take it very seriously. They issue tickets, and pay out dividends after each race. It's not everyday you see bookies looking so cute!









Before each race, the police will clear the beach. Then you'll see the jockeys walking their horses slowly down the beach toward the finish line. Some races only have about 4 horses, others have up to eight. But each race is a small batch. The prize money is very prestigious, up to several thousand Euros, so these are very qualified riders and horses.






This was our view of the starting gate. A tractor moved the gate in between each race, probably because of the changing low tide line. See all the boats in the water? They had a great vantage point. There was no starting bell or gunshot that we could hear. Just a huge cheer from the crowd, and then they were off!









You will hear a police siren, as a car races by to clear the way. Everyone rushes to the fence, because the horses are just seconds behind. There is a plastic netting fence set up, and the crowd presses in at least 4 or 5 people deep. If you want a good view, you have to be right on the fence. The horses go by in a blur!
(This isn't my photo. I stole it from a friend. I was standing further back watching my baby, whom I didn't trust near the fence.)





After each race, the netting comes down, and everyone can play in the sand and the water. You can see Sophie standing in the tracks where the horses ran by moments earlier. This is a fun time for the whole family. You will see fathers standing in the water, playing with their kids, with an alcoholic drink in one hand. The Spanish children are allowed to climb all over the starting gate. The atmosphere is relaxed, fun, and exciting. We were struck by how very Spanish this event is: children out late (past sunset) families talking and drinking together, and everyone just sharing the beach and enjoying an event together. This type of activity wouldn't work in the States. There would be tickets, preferred seating, greed, commercialization, etc.

 If you are just there for the horse races, you may be a little bored, because they are 45 minutes apart, and only about 3 races each night. But if you are there to enjoy a family evening on the beach, with the added thrill of horses running by, you will have a blast!



The best part is, if you are disappointed to have missed this event, it isn't over yet! The races go on two separate weekends, usually the 1st and 3rd weekend of August. So last weekend when we attended was the first set. But there will be more races each evening from August 16-18. I hear that the second weekend is an even bigger event, because it has larger prize money. So make plans to come out and enjoy a truly enjoyable and unique Spanish cultural event!