A week in Western Ireland

Ireland is amazing, beautiful, breathtaking. To really experience the essence of Irish culture, music, and landscapes, you need to get away from the big cities and head West. We were lucky to spend a week in Western Ireland having a family reunion with my parents and siblings (most of us had never been to Ireland before). It was a wonderful vacation!

GETTING THERE: Of course you have to fly to Ireland. Most flights will land in Dublin, with a few options in Cork or Galway. Check airports like Jerez, Malaga, Sevilla, and even Gibraltar to get the most flight options. Use Skyscanner.com to compare rates, and set a price alert to get the best fares. From Dublin, you can rent a car, and basically drive all over the country. Ireland is not very large, so getting to Killarney in Western Ireland took about 4 hours of driving from Dublin, which is on the opposite side of the country. Speaking of the Opposite side-- DRIVING IN IRELAND IS ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE ROAD! So, the driver's seat is on the right side of the car, and the car is driven on the left side of the road. Also, roundabouts move clockwise, instead of counter-clockwise. It took some getting used to, but we found the roads to be mostly well-marked. Even though they were narrow in many places, it wasn't as bad as some of the tiny streets we have encountered in Spain!

WHERE TO STAY: 
DUBLIN: If you land in Dublin, of course you want to spend 1-2 nights there. It is an interesting city--lots of history, culture, and of course pubs. You won't get anything like it in Western Ireland, so enjoy it for a brief time. We didn't spend time in Dublin on this trip, because I had been before. To find apartments in Dublin, use a search site like AirBnB, or stay at a hotel.

The view from our rental house, 'Mangerton View.'

WESTERN IRELAND: We found it convenient to stay in Killarney the entire week, and explore Western Ireland as day-trips from there. Killarney itself is quaint and worth a visit, but the day trips included driving the Ring of Kerry, visiting Blarney Castle and Cork, hiking the Gap of Dunloe, and visiting the town of Dingle. Alternatively, you can stay at different locations each night and work your way around the country, but then you have to spend a lot of time coordinating with hosts, and packing suitcases. We found 1 home base to be convenient, relaxing, and it didn't limit our options. Again, AirBnB can get you great locations and connect you with locals for a wonderful experience. Any Bed and Breakfast in Ireland, especially one with great views and charming hosts, is guaranteed to be a memorable experience!

Our local host gave us a tour of his family's dairy farm!

WHEN TO GO:

Compared to Spain, Ireland is COLD. All the time. And windy. And rainy. So... really the best time to visit is in the summer. I know many people who have gone in the spring and still had a good time, but in Western Ireland the weather is really a factor. We were extremely lucky to have sunshine almost every day for one week in late June. The locals assured us that this was practically miraculous and almost never happens. So no matter when you go, be prepared for cooler temperatures than Spain. Pack sweatshirts and rain gear. Most tourists go in June, July, or August, when Ireland can offer refreshingly cooler temperatures than Spanish beaches. This is the best weather, but just beware that it also makes for more crowded tourist sites and longer lines.






WHAT TO SEE/DO:

DUBLIN: The Irish Museum of National History had great exhibits ranging from Iron Age burial sites all the way up to modern civil unrest. Trinity College and the Book of Keels inside it are of course a must. St. Patrick's Cathedral is gorgeous. The Guinness brewery tour is fun. And of course you can spend some time shopping and pub hopping. I went on a pub crawl tour, where local actors read segments from famous Irish writers and poets at each of those Irishman's favorite bar. (I'm an English major, so a literary pub crawl was a trip highlight for me!)  There are also some kid-friendly sites, like the Zoo or the Hop On- Hop Off bus.

Rock of Cashel

ROCK OF CASHEL: This is in the middle of the country, and you will drive right past it from
Dublin to Killarney. It is on a hill outside Cashel town. It was the ancient seat of the Irish kings, and is now the somewhat well-preserved ruins of a fortress and abbey from the 12th century. You can spend a few hours exploring the medieval site. More info about opening hours and ticket costs can be found HERE.





KILLARNEY: As I mentioned, Killarney can be an excellent central location for a visit to Western Ireland. But if you just spend a day in the city, go to the Muckross House and Farms. This is a very convenient location that has a little bit to please everyone, all in one convenient area. There is a section of traditional farms, where you can visit traditional cottages and witness what life was like several hundred years ago. There is a well-preserved and fully furnished manor house from the 1800's, along with beautiful gardens. From the Muckross grounds, you can also walk or take a horse carriage ride to the ancient Abbey, founded in the 1400's. And you can take the same carriage to visit Torc Waterfall. More about the Muckross Park HERE.

Muckross House

Muckross Abbey, from the 1400's. A hauntingly beautiful site.

Most of the gang on the carriage ride at Muckross House and Abbey

Torc Waterfall. You can hike from Muckross, or access it from the Park road.

Ross Castle

Killarney also contains a National Park, with many wonderful hiking trails. Notably, the most popular trail goes from Ross Castle around Ross lake, and gives gorgeous views of the surrounding mountains. Another amazing location is the Gap of Dunloe, a narrow gap between two mountains. Unfortunately, we attempted this hike on our 1 rainy day, so we didn't make it to the amazing views.








RING OF KERRY: The best attractions in Western Ireland are not man-made. They are the landscape that occurs when the cliffs meet the sea. The best way to witness and enjoy these views is by driving in a loop along the coastline of either the Kerry Peninsula (Called the Ring of Kerry) or the Dingle Penninsula (Called the Slea Head Loop). You can find guidebooks with details about every stop along the route, but some of our favorites in Kerry were: The Ladies View lookout point, the quaint town of Sneem, the ancient rock Staigue Fort (we had a picnic lunch there!) and the Skellig Islands. If you don't have a rental car, there are also many tour buses that make the loop from Killarney. It's a long, but beautiful day! Make sure you choose a day with decent weather, not only to get the best views, but also to have the least harrowing driving experience.

Ladies View, Ring of Kerry

Staigue Fort, a ring fort from the Stone Age!

Views from the tip of the Ring of Kerry

CLIFFS OF MOHER: These are several hours from Killarney, not quite possible as a day trip, but certainly worth a visit! They are one of the top attractions in all of Ireland! The cliffs are 700 feet of sheer black awesomeness. They are impressive. They are huge. They loom over everything else. The views are hard to describe, so just look at the pictures! They were actually used as the "Cliffs of Insanity" in the movie "The Princess Bride." And in the Harry Potter movies, they are the cliffs with the cave where Dumbledore takes Harry to find the Horcrux. They can also be reached from the Galway airport, after a few hours of driving. So if you can get to them, it is a definite must-see. Plan your trip HERE.

Sophie, age 6, kissing the Blarney Stone.

BLARNEY CASTLE: This is one of those must-see sites on a visit to Ireland. At first I was hesitant, thinking it would be touristy and not worthwhile, but it's actually a really cool castle and garden. Yes, there is a long line (over an hour to get to the top), but along the way you are entertained by ancient rooms, beautiful views, and amusing Irish signs. To kiss the Blarney stone, you have to lay down and bend backwards. It's a fun and memorable experience! The gardens were really fun to explore, with legends of a witch who lived in an ancient tree and was captured in a stone. Blarney is just over an hour from Killarney, and much closer to Cork, so you can spend a few hours there, then head to your next destination. Ticket info HERE.





CORK: We had spent almost a week in Western Ireland, seeing rolling mountains, quaint villages, and gorgeous scenery. My brother was starting to wonder if Ireland had any cities! So, we took him to Cork. It is one of the largest cities in Ireland after Dublin, and is a bustling University town. We walked through the downtown area, explored the English Market (and indoor market area), and stopped by the Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul. This is a good place for shopping, but not a very ancient or beautiful city.



DINGLE: If you want a quaint city with cultural history, beautiful views, wonderful music, and good seafood, then Dingle is the place for you! Dingle town is located on the Dingle peninsula, which is the peninsula north of Kerry. It is one of the few areas in Ireland where Gaelic has been preserved as the official language, so you will see more Gaelic than English on signs (but people speak both easily). The town itself offers numerous craft shops, seafood restaurants selling fresh catches from the bay, an Aquarium, and several smaller museums. There are plenty of pubs, and at night Dingle is the best place to hear traditional Irish music performances. From the town, you can drive around the Dingle peninsula in a breathtakingly gorgeous drive called the Slea Head Loop. Most of us preferred this over the Ring of Kerry because it had even better views, less traffic, and was a shorter trip. This was honestly one of my favorite places.Check it out HERE.

Cheese shop in Dingle

Gallarus Oratory, built in 700 AD, seen along the Dingle Slea Head Loop.

Other places to consider: Bunratty Castle and other castles around Limerick, Kinsale fishing village, Knock pilgrimage site, Northern Ireland, the Giants' Causeway. These locations were all a bit too far out of our way, but for someone using a different route, they would be well worth a trip. I'm not trying to replace a travel book, so do your own research to see what sites appeal to your family!



IRISH MUSIC:

Celtic Steps, the show in Killarney

If you love Irish music such as the fiddle, drums, and Celtic singing, you are probably thinking of "traditional" music, commonly referred to as Trad. Trad music performances are popular in many bars and pubs throughout Western Ireland, particularly around Dingle and the surrounding areas. Performances usually start at 8 PM. A pub with a good musical atmosphere is said to have good craic. This is the celtic word for 'fun, enjoyment.' So make a point to get to at least one trad performance during your visit! 
If you want to see Irish dancing as well, in a show similar to Riverdance, then so to the Celtic Steps show in Killarney. They perform nightly throughout the summer, and the show was amazing! It's not as big as Riverdance--only 4 dancers at a time-- but they showed a great variety of Irish dancing, different shoes, different styles, etc. The music and instruments were gorgeous, very traditional, very family-friendly, and highly recommended! This was one of the highlights of our trip!



There are so many wonderful things I could say about Ireland. I have never met anyone who travels there and doesn't like it. Ireland is arguably one of the most beautiful countries in the world. It has a history that stretches back farther than our minds can comprehend. It has culture, music, storytelling tradition, and some of the world's friendliest people. Oh yes, and beer. Really, what's not to love? I can't plan your trip for you, but ours was pretty much perfect, so I hope it can inspire you. Leave me a message if this was helpful! Or 'like' my Welcome to Rota Facebook page.
Go raibh maith agat! (Thank you!)

How to make Moroccan Mint Tea

Moroccan teapot and painted glasses, purchased in Tangiers

When we spent a day in Morocco, one of the most peaceful moments was when we went to a cafe at Africa's northern-most point, and enjoyed a glass of mint tea. I had heard of mint tea before, but didn't realize how delicious and refreshing it would be. Ours was served in the morning, with a small pancake covered in argan oil, almonds, and honey. It was a sweet and surprisingly energizing snack! And it turns out that the tea is very easy to make! I bought a Moroccan tea set while we were in Tangiers, and have been enjoying an afternoon tea ceremony with my daughter after school some days as a mother-daughter treat.

musical performance at a Moroccan tea house, mint tea on the table

Tea is popular in many Muslim countries, where alcohol is not publicly sold or consumed. So tea houses take the place of bars, and an afternoon tea ceremony is a traditional way for men to get together and enjoy conversation. Traditionally, three cups of tea are served, and the mint leaves are left in the pot the whole time, so the first glass has a weak flavor, while the last glass is the strongest.

RECIPE:
1 bag of green tea, plain, any brand
Fresh mint leaves
Honey

Moroccan mint tea is essentially green tea, brewed with fresh mint leaves (spearmint, not peppermint), and lots of honey. To make your own, boil water and steep a bag of green tea for several minutes. If you have a good teapot, you could boil the water directly in the teapot, but this recipe assumes you are boiling your water on the stove in a saucepan, or in the microwave. (Note: this is not the traditional authentic preparation, so I use a green tea bag instead of whole tea leaves. This makes it convenient and easy to do at home, and still tastes great.) You can either use whole mint leaves, and muddle them to release some oils, or you can coarsely chop the mint leaves. Throw the fresh leaves into the tea. Add honey to taste. The Moroccans like their tea VERY sweet, so to achieve similar flavor, use several Tablespoons per serving. Stir until the honey is dissolved. Then pour the whole concoction into a teapot to keep it warm.

Pour yourself a small glass of the sweet mint tea. (I notice that in my Moroccan teapot, the leaves are automatically strained out when I pour. You can enjoy it with or without the leaves in the glass.) Sip and enjoy. Close your eyes and imagine this scene: the sound of the waves where the Atlantic Ocean meets the Mediterranean Sea; a short lighthouse built in the 1800's by a French architect; the smell of jasmine flowers stirred by the strong ocean breeze; the warm sun on your skin; the sweet refreshing tea on your tongue. If you never make it to Africa, this can be a pleasant experience anywhere!

Be brave, explore, enjoy the little things!

While we have lived in Europe, we have had the opportunity to do some pretty amazing things--like spend a week in Ireland, or visit Portuguese beaches on a moment's notice.
Those dramatic adventures have been wonderful, and I write about many of them on this blog. But they don't tell the whole story. Enjoying Europe is not just about taking a plane to new countries and photographing famous monuments. It's also about taking time to enjoy smaller, sweeter moments that occur much closer to base. I honestly feel that almost anyone can buy a plane ticket and read a travel book about a major city. But it takes a lot more courage and energy to explore our local area, because there aren't any guidebooks (except maybe mine!), and you are all on your own for those local adventures. Yet that is what makes them so much more exhilarating, memorable, and rewarding.

What kind of adventures can you have locally? And how do you plan them? Some of the best ones happen unplanned. For example: yesterday I went to a new French bakery with a friend. (It's called Le Croissant Francés, in Puerto). The pain au chocolat was so delicious that I dreamed about it all night, and immediately made plans to take my children there this weekend. Even though my husband is gone, I figured I could pack up the 4 children, drive to the Plaza de Toros, and walk a few blocks to the bakery with them. So this morning, we went there for lunch, and ducked into a local grocery store to get cheese for the bread. It was all delicious!

This moment happened because I went to a bakery, with all 4 kids.

As we walked through Puerto's Plaza d'Espana, in front of the big cathedral, to get to the bakery, we saw that a medieval fair was being set up. I snapped a picture to share with the American Facebook community, since it looked like a fun event and I hadn't previously heard anything about it. It turns out it's a whole weekend showcasing street performances, artisan food, children's games, and craft vendors! It looks very cool! Not only will we get to enjoy it, but now many others in the community have had an opportunity to visit the fair, because of my photo shared on the Community page. But none of that would have happened if I had decided to stay home today, and not visit the bakery with my children.

This memory happened because we kept the kids up way past bedtime.

It reminded me of another medieval fair, one we stumbled upon during our first week in Rota. We were temporarily staying at a hotel in town, until we had long-term housing. Every evening, we went walking along the boardwalk, from one end of Rota to the other. (The sun sets very late in summer, and our kids were having trouble falling asleep in the hotel room, so we did a lot of walking!) One evening, we ventured into Rota's town square, and a medieval fair was happening! There were craft stands, food stalls, children's rides, and fancy horses! We could not believe our luck at living in Europe, in a place where these events are typical.

This moment was captured because we explored the top of a hill.

Many of our adventures have been accidental--like the time we got lost in Jerez in a labyrinth of 1-way streets and couldn't find a main road for 20 minutes. Or the time we went out for lunch and followed the sound of music to Rota's annual Rosary festival and dancing. Or the time my family encouraged me to climb up a hill in a city I thought I had already seen and explored, and at the top we discovered an interactive hunting bird show, where all our children got to hold birds of prey! (pictured here) Or moments when you peek into a simple-looking church and discover that the inside is a gorgeous display of Baroque art. So yes, sometimes we make the effort to attend an announced public festival, and we plan out the time of day, and the parking... but other times just being out and about has its own treasure and rewards!

Here are some other little moments I will treasure and miss about Europe:
(in no particular order)

- walking on Rota's boardwalk and getting ice cream
- stopping by a churro stand on a Spanish holiday
- watching my kids smile as they ride beautiful Andalusian horses
- going down to the point to watch the waves break
- stopping by the fish market to buy dinner
- Sunday lunch at local restaurants (favorites are Argos in Rota's port, Blanco Paloma in Puerto Sherry, and Shamrock's in Puerto)

When we went the wrong way in Cadiz, we found the bay!

- biking to the bakery to pick up fresh bread and fruit
- sangria by the beach
- the sound of the breeze in the palm trees
- looking for sea glass
- picnics at the playground
- medieval cathedrals
- windmills on the horizon
- fresh squeezed orange juice from any bar/restaurant
- tapas hopping
- public festivals celebrating Holy Days
- horses and Mary statues at every public festival
- the gypsy market

Most of them seem to involve food, hmmmmm. And it's not a comprehensive list; I'm sure there are MANY more things we will miss when we leave! But these are some of the things I want to treasure this summer, in the time we have left. A friend once described every single tough thing we do in Spain as stringing pearls on a necklace. You figure out how and where to park--that's a pearl. You successfully order and pay for bread at a bakery--that's a pearl. You buy an unidentified fish and cook it for dinner--another pearl. You attend a local festival without any idea what it is celebrating--perhaps several pearls!
All these little every day actions can be intimidating and daunting at first... but if you don't make the effort to get out and try them, then you will be missing out on so many beautiful pearls.

This is a more sentimental and meandering post for me, but here is the message: Get out to the local towns and explore this area! There are so many wonderful things to discover! Don't be afraid of getting lost, whining kids, not speaking the language, and generally not knowing how things are done. It takes an awful lot of courage to face those things, but nevertheless--take a breath, say a prayer, and BE BRAVE! Exploring is always worth-while and will leave you with just as many memories (at a much lower budget) than any elaborate jet-setting vacation. So please: be brave, explore, and enjoy the little treasures all around you! (If I can do it with 4 crazy kids, then ANYONE can!) You won't regret it!

Running of the Bulls in Arcos

 

When my family came to visit during Easter week, I asked them if they wanted to experience any Spanish cultural events, such as the Running of the Bulls. They were very excited, and my brother-in-law even decided that it would be the highlight of his trip to run with them!

The most famous running of the bulls event in in Northern Spain, in Pamplona, in the month of July. However, there are a few smaller events in our area. On Easter Sunday, the towns of Arcos and Vejer de la Frontera each release a bull into the streets, and brave drunken men take the opportunity to run from it! 

Andrew's view inside the gates!

In Arcos, they release two separate bulls: the first at Noon, the next at 3 PM. For each event, spectators gather at least an hour ahead of time. You have 2 options for parking. There is an underground parking garage near the festivities, for those who arrive early enough in the day. It is located at GPS Coordinates: 36°45'03.7"N 5°48'48.5"W. However, that garage would be difficult to get out of at teh end of the day, because the street party happens all around it. (More about that in a moment). So I recommend parkingin the dirt lot at the bottom of the city, located at: GPS coordinates: 36°44'59.8"N 5°48'54.0"W. Beware--Spanish drivers will park all over the place, making it difficult to get out of the lot, so be sure to leave yourself enough room to get out of your spot, and try to ensure you have access to an exit from the lot. Whether you park at the dirt lot or the parking garage, you will walk uphill to the part of the city with all the festivities. Let the music and the crowds guide you. It is one huge street party! All restaurants are standing room only, and booths are set up along the road offering 1 Euro beers and cheap sangria. Enjoy the festive environment!

The city puts up bright red metal fences that line the entire road where the bull will run. It is easy to find a spot along this fence 1 hour ahead of time, but as release time approaches, the crowd climbs on the fences, nearby balconies, roofs--anywhere to get a good view! There are multiple cannon shots: I think every day minutes in the hour leading up to the event. Then a truck drives the bull up to the top of the street. (In typical Spanish fashion, the release does not happen precisely on the hour. In our case, it was almost a half hour later than scheduled!) Finally, the bull is released and charges downhill! But at the bottom of the hill, another fence stops it, so it turns around and runs back up the hill! Be prepared for it to come by a few times! If you are one of the crazy people running with it, look for the tall narrow loops in the fence, which are designed for men to escape. (Note: active duty military cannot run with the bull, but anyone else who wants to simply goes into the fence ahead of time.)

All day, but particularly after the runnings, there is a city-wide block party. The entire city turns out to dance (and drink) in the streets. The crowds are thick, and can stretch for several blocks at a time. My relatives were really impressed by this: it was a great environment, fun music, cheap drinks, and everyone was enjoying themselves without being publicly drunk or stupid. Feel free to stay as long as you want: the merriment probably last all night. Of course, be responsible and have a designated driver, since Arcos is over 1 hour from base.

With that said, one final note is important: This event is NOT kid-friendly! Typically, the Spanish will bring children to every public celebration, but this was the one time in Spain that we did not see children participating. Why? Well, it's just a little dangerous. I kept my children a few feet away from the red fence, so the bull's horns couldn't touch them even if he did approach the edge. The Spanish people around us allowed my niece and nephew (ages 10 and 14) to approach the fence, but there were about 4 different Spanish women with hands on my 10-year-old niece, ready to push her away in case of danger.  Also, there are a lot of pressing crowds that are not stroller-friendly. And there is a lot of time standing around waiting (and drinking) which kids do not enjoy. So was it a fun event? Yes. But I would go without kids if at all possible!

Isla Magica Amusement Park

Isla Magica is the only amusement park I know of within convenient driving distance of Rota. It is near Sevilla, just over 1 hour from Rota. It is a fun park with rides for all ages. They just opened for the 2015 season! They are only open on weekends in April and May, with more days and options beginning in June. The water park inside, called Agua Màgica, opens in June. On days it is open, the park gates always open at 11 AM, but their closing hours vary depending on the day and month. For a complete timetable and opening schedule, visit HERE. Full-day tickets are 29 Euros for adults, 21 Euros for children and seniors (kids 3 and under FREE!)

The park is located in an interesting area that was part of a Universal Exhibition in 1992. Isla Magica was the Spanish part of the park, but nearby modern structures were dedicated to other nations. To reach Isla Magica, you can probably enter "Isla Magica" into your GPS (that's what we did). But here are the GPS coordinate just in case: GPS: 37º 24' 21.0384" -5º 59' 57.7494"

The overall theme of Isla Magica is Pirates!Technically, the different areas of the park are supposed to reflect different eras of Spanish exploration, particularly in the Americas... however, there is a cool pirate ship in the lake in the center of the park, and an old fort you walk through that looks like the castle in Cadiz.





The pirate theme is present in barrels of spinning rum and TNT...

And in barrels equipped with water cannons so you can shoot people around you!

There is also a cool indoor Pirate laser shooting game, where you ride on a spinning chair and shoot a laser gun at objects in the exhibit. They all interact when shot, which is pretty cool, and the game records you score so you can compare with the rest of your party!

 Even when the water park isn't open, the main park has several "water rides" that will allow you to get splashed or wet. There are 2 different log flume rides with a great splash at the bottom of the hill!












The park has a few rides only for older children (based on height, but approximately ages 8 and up I would guess). They are the 1 big roller coaster, pictured here...








The spinning, moving, seated Aztec ride, pictured here...












As well as a tall tower of terror. However, we were pleasantly surprised that much of the park was available to younger kids, and there were even designated areas towards the back portions of the park that are specifically for the youngest children.We were there opening day, and there were very short lines throughout the whole park, so we were able to take the kids from one ride to the next, or even repeat ones they enjoyed!

In the "Americas" section, you can ride llamas on a track through a field. Find me an amusement park in the States with a llama ride!











This is the kiddie version of the tower of terror...

And one of many kiddie rides in the back portion of the park. Be advised that certain heights (3 and 4 year olds) will be required to ride with an "adult" on some rides. This wasn't a problem in our group, because we had 4 adults and 2 teens, but it would have been more challenging if I were there with just my family, and my husband and I were taking turns with the baby and escorting the other kids!





Overall, it was a great day, and a very fun park! I would recommend it to anyone who enjoys theme parks! There is only the 1 big roller coaster, so it may not be the best park for thrill seekers, and it is smaller than many theme parks in the States. However, for our young kids, it was a perfect first amusement park--their first little roller coaster ride, some rides they enjoyed, and other rides they found challenging or terrifying! If you get a chance, go check it out!

Daytrip to Tangiers, Morocco

Tangiers' Medina area, with 95,000 residents in 600 tiny streets

Music in a fancy touristy restaurant

 

Place de France is a familiar scene from several movies.

The African continent lies just across from Spain, with only a narrow portion of the Mediterranean Sea in between. It is possible to take a ferry from Tarifa, Spain to Tangiers, Morocco. It’s a long day trip, but it will take you to a completely different world. Tangiers is exotic—filled with colorful tiles, doors, spices, rugs, new flavors, and smells. You can ride a camel, watch a snake charmer, taste mint tea, and enjoy some amazing food. However, Tangiers is also a 3rd world country with a somewhat dangerous melding of wealth and poverty. Wealthy princes have mansions on the hill, while in town some families beg and live in squalor. 

Many choices of pottery at the markets.

The vendors are relentless, almost desperate, in their pursuit of clients in the street. If you show any interest or make eye contact, you may find yourself in a frustrating negotiation that can last up to 15 minutes—even if you are walking away the entire time! Morocco is a foreign country with a foreign culture. Therefore, it is recommended that you visit Tangiers with a local guide, who can safely escort you to areas of interest, while protecting you from the intense pressure of street vendors. There are several trusted guides who have served the Rota community for years. Check with the Fleet and Family Center to get some recommendations, or 

ask friends who have recently traveled. 

Jamal invited us into a tea house to participate in a song!

We used Jamal Chatt, who comes HIGHLY recommended! We were very impressed by his ability to lead us to quieter, safer areas, and to protect us from the pushy vendors. He can be reached at jc.privatetours@gmail.com. A good guide will find out ahead of time where you want to go, meet you at the port with a car, provide transportation to areas of interest throughout the day, walk with you through the markets, assist with negotiations if you want to buy something, and allow you to keep purchases in the car during the day so you don’t have to carry everything with you. Prices for a guide should be determined ahead of time, and are usually based on the size of the group and the length of the tour. (Ours was 80 Euro per adult, kids half-price). The price included our round-trip ferry tickets, camel ride, mint tea snack, and personal tour guide all day, so we were very satisfied. We brought extra Euros for lunch, as that is not included. No NOT simply book the tour offered through the companies at the port. They spend 3 hours in a carpet shop every time! Jamal will help you avoid those types of tourist traps.

beautiful tiles on the porch of the Grand Mosque

Note: Some people feel that Tangiers, as a port town, is too flooded with tourists and vendors to give an authentic Moroccan experience. If you are looking for a more genuine taste of Morocco, consider visiting the Moroccan blue town of Chefchaouen. It is further inland and less convenient to reach, but still possible as a day trip, with some of the same guides who work in Tangiers. You can also do overnight adventures in the Moroccan mountains, to Fez, or to Casablanca!

THINGS TO DO DURING A DAY IN MOROCCO:

our group riding camels at the Atlantic beach!

-      Ride a camel. There are many places to do this. Some charge one price for a photo and more for a ride. A guide can get you a fair deal and camels that don’t look sickly.

-     Visit the Kasbah. This is the former palace fort of the sultan. It is an impressive building with huge walls, and also now a historical museum. Entrance fees 10 dihrams.

-  Tour the American Legation for Moroccan Studies. This is the only American museum on foreign soil, and has interesting history and art displays. Minimal entrance fee.

-    Barter at the flea market. The Casa Barata flea market is an outdoor area with a wide range of spices, rugs, baskets, clay items, and even furniture for sale. The adjacent souk is an indoor market open twice a week. 

-   Watch a snake charmer. Depending on your interest in snakes, you can get VERY up close and personal with them!

outdoor farmer's market--look at the women's hats!

-     See the Cave of Hercules, a natural cave which has been expanded and modified since the time of the Phoenicians. Legends abound, stating that the cave has tunnels leading to Gibraltar, that Hercules built it, or that he simply slept there.  

-      Visit the Church of St. Andrew. It is an Anglican church built in 1894, and a unique blend of Moroccan and English architecture.

-    Eat delicious food! Whether you enjoy kebobs, couscous, tagines, or mint tea, Tangiers has numerous high-quality restaurants and tea houses to enjoy.

Mint tea, and a pancake made with argan oils. Delicious!

Some advice on bartering: 

Morocco does not have fixed prices in most shops. Bartering is expected in the marketplace. Our guide was not allowed to barter for us, but he did give us some help. He said always aim for 1/3 of the original asking price. If they say something is 75 Euros, offer 20. You may be able to get it for 25 or 30. 

- If you aren't sure you want something, don't ask the price! Once you ask for the price, the negotiations have begun. 

spice markets grind spices to order! so fresh!

- If you don't think you're getting a good deal, walk away. Don't worry, they will follow you down the street with a much better offer. (That's how I got a silver teapot that started at 55 Euros. I walked away after offering 15, he came into the street and proposed 25, and I got it for 20 Euros.) 

- Try to get just one thing at a shop. If you haggle over multiple items, it gives them a lot more opportunities to suggest changes and substitutions. Pick one thing to keep the negotiation simple. 

- I asked our guide how he felt about the inconvenience of bartering all the time. He said it is about the sense of happiness and satisfaction you feel after purchasing an item. It's the adrenaline rush of getting a good deal. If you just walk into a shop and hand over money, there is no relationship between you and the vendor. But when you barter, you acknowledge that their product has value, and you walk away with a sense of satisfaction and pride in your purchase. That made sense to me. The vendors aren't just trying to get the highest price--they are negotiating the perceived value of their product. If something beautiful seems worth 50 Euros to you, and it makes you happy, then go ahead and pay it, and it will make them happy too! But if you feel it is only worth 20 Euros, then say so. :-)

Roast lamb and prunes. I was hesitant, but it was delicious!

 

Tips for the trip: Contact the Security office first, since Morocco is not always approved for American military personnel to visit. Bring your passport! You are in another country. Expect to change money. Morrocco uses the dirhram. (Although the Euro is accepted almost everywhere). Dress appropriately: even though you probably can’t enter any mosques, remember that Morocco is a Muslim country. Women should wear pants or long skirts, and have their shoulders covered as well. Be prepared for a long day. Tarifa is 1 hour 15 minutes from Rota, and the ferry ride takes 45 minutes in each direction. The ferry has indoor seating, but the ports are very windy, so dress with some warm layers. Also, Morocco is in a different time zone--1 hour ahead of Spain. And use common traveling

Lighthouse at Africa's Northern-most point

a tiny mosque, the oldest in the Medina (old town) area.

sense—keep your belongings safe at all times, stay with a group, be aware of your surroundings, and don’t buy anything you can’t carry with you, even if they promise to ship to you later!


(Most of this article is an excerpt from my book, 'Welcome to Rota,' with some of my personal experiences and pictures added).