Presenting the Book at the Castle

The Welcome to Rota book is gaining local recognition and attention! During the editing process, I received assistance from Marijo Resinas Verano from the Welcome to Rota Office (pictured on the right). She helped me edit the Spanish culture and food sections of the book, and provided tons of insight into local recipes, store locations, and Spanish laws.
I had always planned to call my book "Welcome to Rota," but while I was writing my draft, a tourism office opened outside the base gate with that same name. Before publishing, I contacted them to make sure there was no copyright infringement if I used that title. Approval went all the way up to the office of the Mayor. Not only did she approve the title, but she invited me to come to the Castle (Rota's Town Hall is a 15th Century castle) and present the book to her staff.

A few weeks ago, I had a private meeting with several of the Mayor's Delegates:
Senora Auxiliadora Izquierdo, delegate to Office of Education and Institutional Relations,
Senora Marijo Resinas Verano from the Welcome to Rota Office, and
Senor Jose Luis Luna, official delegate to the Office of Tourism. They met to ask me about the book and determine my purpose for writing and publishing. Once they realized the book helps Americans get involved in local activities by explaining the culture, naming stores and restaurants, and providing travel info, they were excited for me to share it with as many people as possible.


So today, February 10, I was invited back to the Castle for a public presentation of the book. This was open to the public, so both Americans and Spanish attended the event. I did a brief introduction in Spanish (not perfect, but they literally applauded my efforts!) and then read some selections from the book. Marijo (her real name is Marie José) sat next to me and translated.






From the cultural section, I read a description of Carnaval, which is the week-long celebration equivalent to Mardi Gras. It begins this weekend, so I thought it was fitting. From the food section, I read a description of local fish-- how to buy them, cook them, and serve them. And from the travel section, I read my description of a walking tour of Rota, recommended to every newcomer. As you can see, it was a very animated and fun reading!


 


The Town Hall Staff was so excited that an American undertook the project of sharing the Spanish culture and local knowledge with other Americans. The purpose of the book is to help Americans make the most of their time here, and to smooth the way for local interactions, so that moving and getting settled will be a lot easier. The Tourism Office wants as many people as possible to get a copy of the book, so the book will now be sold at the Tourism Office in the Castle, and at the Welcome to Rota Center just outside the gate! I provided them with copies to sell, and was also able to sign and sell a few books after the presentation. So I guess this was my first book-signing event!

I received these gifts from the Welcome to Rota office!

I was very grateful to have my family's support and presence. We took the kids out of school so they could be involved in this awesome cultural opportunity. They were a little nervous and not sure what to think, but I was happy they could be involved. They are really very proud of me, and will bring me into their classes next week so we can show-and-tell about the process of writing and publishing a book to the class. A special thanks to my husband for wrangling the kids during a formal public event!

Spanish Cultural Differences from Americans

"Culture Shock" is the term used to explain how people feel when they experience differences in the new culture they live in versus the culture they grew up in. Cultural differences are not good or bad-- they are just differences in what is 'normal' in a culture or society. Even in America, we experience different cultural norms when we joke about how people in the Midwest eat corn and beef every day, whereas people in the Southwest eat spicy Mexican dishes, and people in the South eat mostly fried comfort food. In some parts of the country, people say 'soda,' and in other areas it is 'pop'. So of course you can imagine that Americans experience some culture shock when they move to Southern Spain. If you know what to expect, the differences will make more sense and you will be better able to handle them. The following 20 differences are listed in my book as the main differences Americans notice in Spain(not necessarily in order of importance):

1.      The lifestyle is very relaxed. Some Americans love this, but for most it is a change from our always-busy American lives. The Spanish take the time to enjoy life: they enjoy long, slow meals, they enjoy family time, they enjoy going for walks with their children. The flip side of this is that timeliness is not a Spanish trait. Stores and restaurants do not open promptly on the hour. Orders and repairs do not always happen on a prompt timeline. Guests often arrive 15 minutes after an announced time.

2.      Family comes first. The Spanish are extremely family-oriented, often being born, growing up, and getting married in the same town. The younger generations take care of the older generations (or hire someone to care for them). Men are involved in family life, taking their children to the park and carrying them in public. Most holidays are celebrated with the entire extended family, in large gatherings with plenty of alcohol, music, and laughter. On Sundays, most stores are closed, because the Spanish spend the whole day with their families.

3.      Work comes second. The Spanish work for a living, but do not live for working. The work ethic is very laid back, and family or fiestas can take precedence to work. Spain can be an extremely relaxing environment for Americans who are used to the constant rush and stress of the States. However, the mañana (tomorrow) attitude of procrastinating can also be very frustrating for people who are waiting for a store to open, for a vehicle to be repaired, or for a landlord to mend something in the home. Things do not always happen in a timely manner, and usually take longer than estimated. The laid back work attitude has also contributed to the economic crisis that has gripped the country for the last few years. Unemployment is currently around 25%, so those who have jobs are very interested in keeping them.

4.      Life is a party. Or more accurately, one fiesta after another. There is almost always some kind of upcoming celebration to anticipate, whether it is one of the major annual events like Carnaval or Feria, a smaller local celebration like Andalusia Day, or a religious or culinary festival celebrated only in one town. Each town has their own schedule of fiestas, but they last most of the year, especially through the warmer weather from Easter until October. The Spanish take holidays and religious festivals seriously, so stores will be closed and people will be out in the streets for a parade or a fair near the town center. Americans usually have a 3-day weekend for holidays like Martin Luther King Day or President’s Day, observing the holiday on the closest Monday. The Spanish celebrate holy days on the calendar date, even if it is a Wednesday or Thursday. So it can be difficult to keep track of all the holidays and business closings. But it is also fun to get out and enjoy some unique celebrations! Look for the holiday schedule at www.aytorota.es. It is explained in depth later in this chapter.

5.      Restaurants are never open when you are hungry. Because the Spanish eat at such different times than Americans, it is difficult to find a place serving food around Noon or 6  pm. Restaurants don’t open for lunch until 1 pm, then close at 4, and don’t reopen until 8 pm! So you have to plan carefully, and maybe get a babysitter to go out for dinner.

6.      Meals are leisurely. It is completely normal to spend 2-3 hours at a restaurant for a meal. Eating in a rush is an American trait. So the first few times you go out, you will probably be appalled at the lack of service and the difficulty in locating a waiter. It isn’t bad service, it’s just different standards. In America, we expect a waiter to check on the table frequently. In Spain, that is considered almost rude. Instead the priority is to leave the guest alone to relax and enjoy their meal. If you want something, including the check, make eye contact or wave your waiter over.

7.      Alcohol is always available. Most Spanish drink frequently, and sometimes profusely. Beer and wine are available at every single public event, whether it is a sporting competition, a religious festival, or even a performance at your child’s school. The legal drinking age is 18. Beer, wine, and sangria are the most common beverages, although hard liquor and mixed drinks are sold at all bars and similar establishments. The drunk driving limit is much lower in Spain: only 0.01 blood alcohol is permitted while driving a vehicle. So if you have even one drink in town, it is best to catch a ride with a taxi or friend, or have plans to walk home, rather than taking the risk of driving.

8.      The Spanish adore children. If you have children, you will find it common for them to be greeted, touched, and cooed over in the streets with cries of ‘Que guapo/guapa!’ (how cute!). Children are included in all festivals and celebrations, even those occurring in the middle of the night. Many large stores and shopping centers have play areas where children can be dropped off while you shop, or play while you eat. In restaurants and other public settings, children are often seen AND heard, unless it is a formal event.

At the San Lucar horse race, children climb all over the starting gate in between races!

9.      Parking garages don’t have cashiers at the exits. To avoid getting trapped at the exit gate, make sure you pay your ticket at the machine—la cajero—BEFORE you get into your car. The machines are usually located in stairways or near the exit. You pay while on foot, the machine validates your ticket, and then you have about 10 minutes to get in your car and drive out. Swipe the validated ticket at the exit, and the gate will raise automatically.

10.   Spain is a Catholic country. Ever since the conquest of the Christian king and queen in the 15^th century, the country has been exclusively Catholic. This means that every small town has its own church or cathedral, and almost all public holidays are rooted in some religious tradition honoring Jesus, Mary, or a saint. Public schools almost always teach Catholic religion as part of the curriculum, because there is no separation of Church and State like there is in America (although parents can opt out of these classes). There are public processions of statues on holy days, and national holidays from work for important Catholic feasts. Not everyone attends church, and you will not find a strict or moralistic Catholic attitude in the culture. Religion is simply part of the Spanish history and mindset. There are very few Protestant groups represented, as Spain endeavored to preserve pure Catholicism with events such as the Inquisition. There is however a growing presence of Islam, mainly in immigrant communities.

11.   Andalusians (people living in Southern Spain) are extremely friendly and welcoming. The Southern United States is famous for its hospitality, and the same seems to be true in Southern Spain. People you barely know will offer to take you places, show you around, and invite you to cultural events. You will be invited to try new foods and drinks. Americans are sometimes surprised by this generosity and openness, and our natural reaction may be to decline the invitation and walk away quickly. Of course, use common sense and never go anywhere alone or with someone who makes you uncomfortable. But don’t pass up great opportunities simply because they are offered with great zeal.

12.   The sun stays up forever in the summer! Spain is in the wrong time zone. Currently, Spain is in the GMT+1 time zone, meaning it is in the same time zone as Italy and most of the Mediterranean—6 hours ahead of the East Coast of the United States. However, geographically, Spain is actually WEST of London. The time was changed during World War II, when dictator Francisco Franco sought to align Spain with the Nazis in Germany and Italy. It was never changed back. So in summer, the sun doesn’t set until after 10pm.

13.   Daylight Savings Time is still observed in Spain—spring forward one hour in March, fall back one hour in October. However, it is observed on a different date here than in America, usually a few weeks apart, so for a few weeks your family and friends in the States will be on a slightly different time than you.

14.   The “first floor” is upstairs. In Spain, as in most of Europe, what we call the first floor is referred to as the ground floor, planta baja. When you walk upstairs to what they call the first floor—primer piso—you are on what Americans typically call the 2nd floor. So if you’re looking for an office or apartment on the first floor, remember you’ll have to go upstairs.

15.   You will see a lot of skin. The Spanish concept of modesty is different from Americans. So, for example, all beaches in the area are topless beaches. It doesn’t matter if women are young or old, thin or fat—they frequently go topless at the beach. The bottoms that are worn are usually thongs. Men typically wear tight bathing suits with a short cut, whether they are young or old. And young children are often completely naked, up until age 8.

16.   Gender equality has not quite developed. While there are now more women in the workforce than in previous generations, household attitudes towards men’s and women’s roles have not changed much in the past hundred years. Cooking and cleaning are still almost exclusively women’s work, as are most child-related tasks. Athleticism is a male-dominated field, but women are now becoming more involved in sporting events.

17.   Europeans are much more energy-conscious than Americans. Spain makes excellent use of wind and solar power, yet energy costs are still much higher than in the States. Therefore, the Spanish are much better at conserving energy: central heat and air conditioning are not standard, many homes don’t use dryers, and hot water is not always available for showers. You can open or close windows and blinds to control temperature, and you should unplug anything not in use. Recycling is common, but not mandatory, in most places off base.

18.   Spanish plumbing is different. You will notice toilets are slightly different in a few ways. They use less water, so you will usually have an option to press one button for a partial flush (for liquids only) or a different button for a complete flush (for solids). In many public restrooms, it is typical to place toilet paper in a trash can instead of flushing it. Finally, many European toilets are designed with straight pipes instead of s-shaped pipes, so it can be common for sewage smells to come back out through toilets, sinks, or showers. This is a problem both on base and in town. Keep drains plugged when not in use.

19.   Gardens are important. Even the smallest house or apartment will have flowers hanging on the walls, crammed onto tiny balconies, and growing in a narrow courtyard. The Spanish take a lot of pride in their homes and their gardens. There are even town competitions in the summer for the most beautiful patio. Houses and streets are generally neat and clean, so please do your part to keep it that way.

20.   Girls always have pierced ears. The Spanish generally pierce a baby girl’s ears just after birth, while she is still in the hospital. So a child without pierced ears is assumed to be a boy, even if she is dressed all in pink! (And even more interestingly, newborn boys are not usually circumcised, so asking for this at a Spanish hospital is seen as a somewhat cruel request.) If you want to get your daughter’s ears pierced while stationed here, the safest place to go is the local Farmacia (Pharmacy) where they will use a sterile needle. You can also go to Claire’s in El Paseo Mall, but there they will use a punch gun.

After publishing the book, I realized there were several more big differences I have become so used to that I didn't even include them! So I will add them here:

21. The Spanish don't shake hands to greet each other. Instead, they kiss. No, it's not a romantic kiss on the lips. It's more like an air kiss next to each cheek. When greeting a Spainsh person, move your head first to the left, and make a kiss in the air next to their right cheek. They will simultaneously do the same to you. Then, quickly move your head to the right side, and kiss the air next to their left cheek. They will do the same. Then take a step back and continue the conversation. You will see everyone do this-- friends, family members, women greeting women, men greeting men, and even children greeting adults. It is just the standard way to say Hola, and doesn't mean anything romantic. American handshakes are too formal and cold for such a warm culture with little regard for personal space.

22. Spanish last names are different. It's not Mr. And Mrs. Garcia. When a Spanish woman gets married, she does not take her husband's last name. When they have children, the child usually has two last names-- one from their father, and one from their mother. The more important one (usually the father's) is listed first, and that is the one that wil be passed on to their own children. So, for example, if a man named José Alverez Peréz marries a woman named Maria Gonzolez Rodriguez, their children could be called Juan Alverez Gonzolez and Carlotta Alverez Gonzolez. The last name is sometimes hyphenated to show that the first of the last names- the paternal one- is the more important one.

23. Birthdays are not as important as Name Days. Traditionally, most Spanish babies are given Christian names, either after a favorite saint or a family member. The date the child is born is important for determining their age, and is sometimes celebrated by the family. However, the more important celebration is on the child's Name Day, which is the feast day of the saint with that name. For example, my birthday is in January. But my name is Elizabeth. If I were Spanish, my parents would have immediately determined whether I was named after St. Elizabeth Ann Seton, whose feast day is January 4, or after St. Elizabeth of Hungary, whose feast day is November 19... Or after any other saint Elizabeth. Whichever saint was selected, that is the day I would celebrate with cake and presents. However, as the Spanish become more familiar with American customs, it is not uncommon to see actual birth dates celebrated as well.

Mold

One drawback of Spain's climate is that the winters are chilly, damp, and cloudy. These are unfortunately perfect conditions for ... Mold. During the rainy season (November-February), mold can be a problem both on and off base. This doesn't really have anything to do with your cleaning habits. It has more to do with environmental factors like the amount of rain that month, or the ventilation in your home. 

IS MOLD DANGEROUS?

In most cases, it is just a frustrating cleaning obstacle. If left untreated, mold can damage walls, furniture, and any items left in outdoor storage (especially cloth items like strollers, car seats, military gear, or clothing). HOWEVER... Some people, especially children, are sensitive to mold and can become sick from inhaling the spores. If you or a family member experience breathing problems, coughing, or frequent illness, it could be caused by mold in your house. If you have a pre-diagnosed condition like asthma, mold can really affect your health and quality of life.

TYPES OF MOLD AND TREATMENT:

There are several types to watch out for. All can cause damage and sickness, and all should be treated immediately.

MILDEW or BLACK MOLD is mold that appears as small dark spots, usually on cloth or material. In the Bible, Jews were required to throw away material with this mold on it, because there was no way to kill it. Now we know that a mixture of bleach and water can be used to scrub mildew off items like strollers. But bleach will damage clothing, and mildew cannot be washed out in a regular wash cycle, so if you find mildew on regular clothes or laundry, you may still need to throw them away. Mildew will also appear around doors and windows without much sunlight or circulation.

GREEN MOLD is the fuzzy kind that most people are familiar with. It thrives in damp, dark environments, so check the back of couches occasionally, and any containers or boxes that are in outdoor storage areas. It can be wiped off with Clorox wipes, or sprayed with a bleach/water solution.

WHITE MOLD can grow underneath plaster on concrete walls, or even in between tiles in bathrooms. It can be hard to spot on white plaster or white grout, but you will notice areas where the plaster on the walls cracks, peels, or falls off. This can also be treated with a bleach-water solution, but the loose plaster must first be removed, then the whole area should be cleaned with bleach, allowed to dry, and resealed and repainted.

MOLD PREVENTION:

- Sunlight kills mold, so try to open curtains and blinds during the day. 

- dry air prevents mold, so if you live on base, turn on the de-humidifier in your HVAC closet. If you live off base, you can get a de-humidifier from the base Self Help center. In either case, remember to check the de-humidifier tray frequently, and be sure to empty it when it gets full.

- open a window when taking a shower, so the steam moisture won't remain in the bathroom

- keep furniture like beds and couches a few inches off the wall, so the moisture from the plaster won't transfer to your furniture and let mold grow there.

Having a baby while stationed in Spain

When we first moved to Spain, we figured of course we would not want to have a baby here. Give birth in a foreign country? Without any family around to help out? No way! We wanted to have more children, but figured we would wait 3 years until we were back in the States.
My first week here, I met a mom with a newborn. "Wow, did you have him here?" I asked. When she answered yes, I think I stared at her in awe and confusion. "Weren't you nervous?" She just shrugged and said, "Not really. It isn't any different from any other hospital."
After hearing similar stories from other moms for over a year, I realized they were right. The Naval Hospital on base has a limited staff, but the OB-GYN office is great, and the Labor & Delivery floor is also fully covered at all times. So the mere fact of being in another country should not be a big deterrent when planning your family. At least, that was our conclusion when we decided to have our next baby while stationed here, and we ended up with wonderful Mary Catherine!

It's true that the process of giving birth at Naval Station Rota is really the same as any other military hospital (this is my 4th child and 3rd naval hospital). The staff is all American Navy personnel who speak English. You will receive regular pre-natal care, check-ups, vitamins, ultrasounds, etc. The only differences arise if you have a high-risk pregnancy or are carrying multiples. In those cases, the on-base hospital will automatically refer you to a hospital off base for your care because the Spanish hospitals have specialists and equipment to handle those situations. You will have either an English-speaking doctor or a translator. The base Naval Hospital will perform regular scheduled c-sections. However, they will not perform emergency c-sections on women less than 36 weeks along, because there is no NIC-U or breathing equipment to help pre-term babies. So in those rare cases the mom would be rushed to a hospital in town. Rota's hospital is just minutes away. The larger hospitals in Jerez and Cadiz are 20-30 minutes driving.
Currently, the base Naval Hospital delivers an average of 1 baby per week. This means that the patient receives very personalized care and attention! The staff includes 2 OB-GYN doctors, so there is always one on call. There are multiple nurses, corpsmen, and a lactation consultant. Prior to delivering, you will tour the facility. The delivery and recovery rooms are very spacious and comfortable (with room for my whole family to visit !) Plus, after delivering, you receive a complimentary steak and seafood dinner! I had no complaints about the hospital, the staff, or my care, and would recommend it to anyone. (Caveat: I was delivering my 4th child, and all my pregnancies and deliveries have been fairly routine and normal without complications. I think a first-time mom would understandably be a little more nervous, but there are still plenty first-timers who deliver there each year).
Once you have your adorable child, the next challenge is obtaining all their paperwork. You may wonder what citizenship your child receives when born in another country. Well, if both parents are American citizens, then the child is automatically an American citizen, whether they were born on base or in a Spanish hospital. In fact, I don't think you can even attempt to get Spanish citizenship for the baby unless you have 1 parent who already has citizenship, or if the child lives here for more than 10 years. So even though our baby has never been to America, she is an American citizen with a passport, birth certificate, and Social Security number. How did we get them? Well, it's a bit of a process. Thankfully, the hospital staff will walk you through it all before the baby is born, so you know what to expect. But be aware that it can take several months to receive these documents, so your baby will not be able to get on a plane or be included on your taxes until you get the paperwork back.

How to obtain documents for your baby:

If your baby is born in a Spanish hospital, they will receive a Spanish birth certificate, which you will then use to apply for their American certificate. If they are born in the base hospital, you have to take some additional steps.
1. Fill out the paperwork you are given prior to the birth, and complete it when the baby is born. Turn it in at the hospital records office, and they will assist you with completing the Spanish birth questionaire. This takes a few days to process, and when completed you will receive a record of live birth. This is NOT a valid birth certificate.
2. Take the record of live birth, the questionnaire, and the other required documents to the Courthouse in Rota (not in the castle, you will be given an address and directions). Check their opening hours first, because they do close for holidays and siesta. Only 1 parent needs to be present. They will enter your names into the Rota record book, and then print out a Birth Certificate for you on the spot. In fact, you will receive 10 copies, because the only way to get a new certificate is to appear in person. So don't keep them all in one place! We mailed some out to family members for safekeeping, so if we need a copy years from now we don't have to make a trip to Spain! Now you have the baby's Spanish birth certificate. This still won't work for most American transactions without a translation, so now you have to get the American document.
3. The American document is called a Certification of Birth Abroad. This will be your child's birth certificate when applying for schools and any American activities. To apply, paperwork needs to be filed and sent to the American Embassy in Spain. There are several ways to do this.

- Option one: Complete the process on base through PSD (Personnel Support Detachment). You can turn in all your paperwork on base and simultaneously apply for the baby's Certification of Birth Abroad, Passports (Tourist and Official), and Social Security card. It is convenient, but also unfortunately the slowest option because it has to pass through several levels of bureaucracy. It will take several months to receive the documents, and there is no way to predict or track the completion date. The process has undergone several changes in the past year, but unfortunately there are still many reports of documents being lost, misfiled, or delayed. Hopefully the process will improve soon!

- Option two: Take your documents to Seville, where there is an American consulate. Here you can apply for everything at once except the official passport (I believe that can only be done on base through PSD). To use this option, first call the American Consulate to schedule an appointment. (The contact number will be in your pre-birth paperwork). You can't make an appointment until your baby is born, and there is sometimes a wait of a few weeks to get the appointment. They will tell you exactly which documents to bring. Make sure you have photocopies, because you cannot make copies at their office! Also, both parents must be present to apply for the passport! Once you apply, they will send the documents to base, and they usually arrive within 1 month.

- Option three: Go directly to the American consulate in Madrid. This is the fastest, most guaranteed method to get your documents. We had to use this method, because we had family travel plans when the baby was exactly 8 weeks old, so we needed a passport quickly. Yes, we had to bring our entire family to Madrid, since both parents have to be present when applying for a passport. It's about a 7-hour drive, and we just spent one night. We had to make the trip, because when she was born in April they were temporarily not processing any passports on base, and when we called Seville, there were no appointments for 1 month. So we made an appointment at the Madrid Consulate, and brought copies of all our documents. We spent about 2 hours total at the consulate, and thankfully there was an area for kids to play in the waiting room. You will have to pass through metal detectors and cannot bring any phones or computers into the consulate, so don't plan on having those to entertain your kids! We had hoped to walk out of the building with her documents, but that is only the case with an actual EMERGENCY passport, and they are a little strict on handing those out. However, they sent the documents through the company SEUR, and we were able to pick them up in Puerto about 8 days after we went to Madrid. (SEUR is in the industrial area of Madrid, near the Mercadona grocery store, but off to the right under the bridge.) This was plenty of time to give us peace of mind about traveling with our infant!

So, if you follow all those steps, you can get your baby's documents about 6 weeks (or more) after they are born! And then your baby can spend the rest of their life surprising people with the fact that they were born in Spain! :-)