Things to do on the Paseo and Beaches of Rota

It is summer in Southern Spain. And it is amazing here. I love living by the beach, and enjoy being a tourist in our beach town as much as possible. Even though we live on base without ocean views, we can park on base and walk to the beaches of Rota. Lately, our family has been enjoying numerous evening walks on the Paseo (boardwalk). It is refreshing and exhilarating. Here, we can drop by anytime, with or without bathing suits. The kids have become accustomed to staying on the boardwalk some days, or walking on the sand fully clothed to look for shells on other days. 

So, here is our list of favorite things to do on the Paseo and Beaches of Rota:

16. Go to the Fish Market. It is a small building at the Port, near the lighthouse. Each day, (except Monday), fresh catches are unloaded, so the selection is very fresh, and changes with the seasons. Fish names will be in Spanish, so either take a dictionary or take a guess. :-) Prices are reasonable, and they will clean it and gut it for no extra charge. Simply ask for it to be limpia. We like to put the fish whole on the grill or smoker, but I have also baked a whole bass in the oven, with just some oil, herbs, and lemon. Everything is delicious. You just have to get past having your food stare at you...

15. Stay Hydrated. Yes, the days are hot, up into the 90's sometimes, but that is not much different from Baltimore, MD and Jacksonville, NC. The difference is that even on the coast we have this 'dry heat' that just sucks the moisture right out of you before you notice. So you hardly ever sweat, but staying hydrated can be a challenge. You have to either carry lots of water with you, or be sure to fill up at every water fountain you see. Or, there's always this option if you have a baby on your back...

14. Play tag in the waves. At low tide, the waves just gently whisper up to the shore. The slope is very gentle, so even the toddler can run around in the ocean without danger. The game is even more fun when Daddy joins in! Running like maniacs for an hour or so seems to be a favorite summer past time of my children.

13. Jump! Our kids have a lot of energy. So when we go for a family 'walk,' none of the kids are actually walking. They run, they skip, they climb, they jump. Someone is usually running ahead as our 'leader' to show us where to go, someone else is probably climbing on a wall, and in general they find it impossible to pose for pictures. But sometimes, when I snap gems like this (when I was of course trying to photograph the boring lighthouse) I remember that these energy-filled adventures are what make it fun for them. So relax, and let out some wild energy!

12. Play in the sand. Sure, our kids have sand toys. And sure, sometimes we make sand castles. But they also like it when we do something different. The wonderful thing about sand and water is that there is no wrong way to play. So they love to be buried in the sand like a mermaid, or to dig a deep hole and then sit in it for no particular reason. Or they make their own toys, like this rainbow made from pebbles.

11. Explore the town. You can spend a whole day on Rota's beaches and Paseo. But just one block away is a beautiful 12th century castle, and a small church. Rota's pedestrian streets offer small shops, delicious bars and restaurants, and sometimes interesting festivals and celebrations. So we like to wander around and see what is going on, even if it is only for a few minutes. We have discovered so many interesting little details about our 'hometown' this way.

10. Enjoy the views. Most days, you can look across the bay and see the city of Cadiz from the Playa del Rompadillo. From the other side of Rota, you can look across the Atlantic towards 'home,' aka the United States. Sometimes the water is green, sometimes blue, but always gorgeous. And there's something equally exciting about a beach filled with colorful umbrellas.

9. Stop by a playground. There is a small playground in the sand of the Playa del Rompadillo. There are two other larger playgrounds at the northern end of that beach. One is shaped like a pirate ship, and the other is a small, somewhat typical Spanish playground. Of course, the playgrounds are mostly empty during Spanish siesta (2-5 PM). So you will have them to yourself then. In the evenings, kids will be playing until the sun has set (after 10 PM). So be prepared to drag your kids away while they ask, "how come the other kids are staying? I want to stay up late like Spanish kids!"

8. Feel the Wind in your Hair. At the beach, it is constantly windy. This is true in most parts of the world, but it can be especially true on the Southern coast of Spain, when the levante winds come off the coast of Africa and whistle through this area. They are especially strong out on the point by the lighthouse. Sometimes the seas are completely calm. Other times, you will see whitecaps and huge waves. But there is hardly ever a need for a jacket, since the winds are so warm.Of course, in the absence of enough wind, you can create your own by jumping...

7. Watch Kite Surfers. Because the winds are so strong on the Spanish coast, a variety of water sports are available here, including one that is completely new to me: kite surfing. These guys can be seen some evenings at the beach on the far side of Rota, where the pine park replaces the Paseo. Kites fill the air, and are controlled by hand while the kite surfers propel through the waves with a small board attached to their feet. They surf in lines, and each time they change direction, they use the power of the kite to jump several feet into the air, sometimes even doing tricks! Very exciting and exhilarating!

6. Search the Tide Pools. Do what the locals do: at low tide, grab a bucket or a net, and wade through the shallow water looking for animals like crabs, snails, or mussels. You will see groups of kids excitedly grouped around certain areas, each time a new small discovery is made. Sure, sometimes there is a bit of seaweed and rocks, especially on the Western side of Rota,but the kids will love making new discoveries, and you may even find some dinner! Yes, the locals eat snails. I personally have not tried them yet, but I'm sure it will be a rite of passage sometime.

5. People-Watch. Spain is wonderful for that, as long as you don't mind seeing a little skin. Or Speedos, on very old men. Yep, everyone wears bikinis or thongs, whether they should or not. Young boys will sometimes play completely nude. Young girls will play and eat and chat on the beach, topless. Older plump women will remove their tops to sunbathe. But aside from the fashion statements, you will see plenty of people playing sports: young boys kicking a soccer ball in the sand, a father and son playing ping pong (there are tables set up on the Paseo!), mixed groups of teens playing beach volleyball. There are adorable children in matching bathing suits. There are families enjoying food and music together. It is all a wonderful portrait of people who are relaxed, happy, and enjoying and enjoying themselves. You can't help but feel the same way!

4. Collect Sea Glass. I had not heard of sea glass before coming here, but I am told that it can be found on beaches throughout the States. There are probably larger amounts in areas where you are permitted to bring glass onto the beach. Basically, any broken glass that ends up on the beach is going to become blasted by the sand and tossed in the waves until it is frosted and smooth. Each piece is beautiful and unique! Sometimes we find large pieces like the bottom of a bottle. Other times they are so small they are a mere glint in the sun. But the kids love looking for the sea glass, and we have started a small collection. It's a fun activity for cold or windy days, when you want to stop by the beach, but can't imagine taking a dip. We find more at the less touristy beaches, since the main ones are plowed over and cleaned regularly.

3. Run out to the Point. There is a large jetty at the very tip of Rota, which is the kids' favorite place. It's great to watch the waves break and climb on the rocks a bit. I have taken my parents here, and my sister, and will probably take my in-laws when they visit in a few months. So each time we go, I am reminded of other visitors, and the fun times we have shared here.

2. Check out the Sand Castles. These two sculptures have been up for over a month now, on the Western part of the Paseo, near 100 Montaditos. They have to be misted with water every hour during the day, and every two hours at night. There was also an Ironman sculpture for a few weeks, but it did not last. The artists accept donations, but it is just a cool site to check out even if you don't throw in any coins.

1. Enjoy a treat. We almost always get ice cream or popsicles. Sometimes from an actual ice cream shop, other times from the kiosks, bars, or tiny stores that sell frozen treats. When time permits, we stop for tapas or dinner as well. There are numerous restaurants right on the Paseo, as well as the little beach bars that are right on the sand. In Spain, you are never far from an alcoholic beverage, so they have beer and sangria available everywhere! The kids look forward to choosing their treat, and know they won't get it without good behavior, so it's a good way to make the evening more pleasant for everyone.

And my personal all-time favorite? Watch the sun set over the Atlantic. I grew up on the East Coast, so I saw a few sunrises over the Atlantic, but to see the sun set over water we had to be on the Bay. Not anymore. Unfortunately the sun doesn't set until close to 10pm in the summer, so we don't usually stay out quite that late. But on the few occasions  I have watched the sun set, with or without children, it has always been pretty memorable. Rota is a gorgeous town, and I am so spoiled and so blessed to be able to call it home!

Ubrique- a quaint mountain town with leather artisans

 The wonderful thing about Southern Spain is that there are so many little villages to discover. Each town has its own character and its own specialties, which makes every trip a unique experience. I had read a little about Ubrique, and knew that the town specialized in producing leather products. So when my sister came to visit, I knew this was at the top of our list of places to go shopping together. What I didn't realize is that the town itself would be such an architectural gem in the middle of the Sierra de Grazelema mountains.In the picture at left, you can see the red and white architecture of the iconic San Antonio church, which has lovely gardens and is located near the highest point of the city. The rest of the city spreads out into the valley, and straddles the Rio Ubrique, the tiny river canal that runs through town.

If you need parking, there is a large dirt lot at the lower, Eastern end of the city, at the end of Doctor Zarco Bohorquez street. Parking is free, and you can easily walk to leather shops or to anywhere else in the city.


Ubrique is a beautiful pueblo blanco, a white-washed village built right up against a steep mountain cliff. You can easily wander the streets working your way up towards the church of San Antonio. When you reach the top of the town, you will see that some houses are literally built into the mountainside. This one in particular is built around a rock that juts out of the mountain cliff!

If you are looking for the leather shops, stay in the lower section of town, near the river. There are several good ones side by side on Doctor Solis Pascual and Avenida Espana. The shops sell a variety of gorgeous leather products: purses, wallets, belts, jackets, gloves, and even accessories like cell phone cases and desk supply organizers. Everything is hand-made, sometimes with layers and colors of leather, and there are stamped and embossed products as well. If you go during July or January, you can benefit from the National sales that give huge discounts on the entire inventory of every store. Also, be aware that the stores will all be closed during siesta, from 2-5 pm, so be prepared to get into town early and do your shopping before 2 pm. Ubrique is about 90 minutes from Rota,



The streets are rather steep, but the views make the climb completely worthwhile. You definitely get a classic Andalusian feel in this town: white-washed walls, steep narrow cobblestone streets, unexpected gardens and bright potted plants around every corner. There are plenty of restaurants in the lower area of the city near the leather shops, but there are also tiny bakeries to enjoy in the winding narrow streets, or shaded plazas to sit down on a bench and enjoy a cold drink.

There is another great vantage point on the opposite side of the river, on a bluff looking over the town, with miradors, a restaurant, and a bullring.You will see it before you enter the town.






When we visited, the church of San Antonio was closed. But the church at the main Plaza d'Espana, pictured here, was open. The plaza is easy to find, as it is the only large open space in the upper section of the city. The town hall is on one side, and this church is on the other side. The church is small, but with some lovely altars, chapels, and paintings. The plaza has a public fountain with potable water, and was a refreshing place to take a break.



Ubrique is a gorgeous white village to explore, even if you are just window shopping. The leather products range from 20 Euro wallets to leather coats that are several hundred Euros. They are certainly gorgeous and unique gifts. I would recommend the trip to anyone! We certainly enjoyed it!

Medina Sidonia- Roman roads and Ducal mansions

Medina Sidonia is a lovely village perched on a mountain about 45 minutes from Rota. In June, we went on a tour organized by the base Fleet and Family Service Center. I am so glad we went! The 40 Day Trips from Rota book mentions that the only reason to go to Medina Sidonia is for the pastries. At first glance, the town didn't appear to be very different from any other white village we had visited. However, thanks to our tour guide and some behind-the-scenes opportunities, we had an amazing opportunity to discover all that this town has to offer: Roman ruins, a history museum, gorgeous views, and yes, some pretty good food.:-)

We started our tour at the plaza in front of the town's main church: Santa Maria la Mayor. Like many other Spanish churches, it is a Renaissance style church that was built on the site of a mosque. Now, only the lower portion of the bell tower contains any remnants of the mosque.The name of the city, Medina Sidonia, is actually Arabic. It means 'city of Sidon.' This is perhaps a reference to the Phonecians, who originally settled the city.

 If you climb up the steps from the Plaza near the church, you will reach the ruins of a castle that was built in the 13th century. It is clear to see why a strong defensive position was necessary here: Medina Sidonia commands sweeping views of the valleys all around it. The Romans, the Moors, and the Spanish all used this city as a stronghold. Each civilization built on top of its predecessors, and the castle is at the top of the heap. Unfortunately, it is mostly in ruins now.

Though the city walls have been destroyed in most places, they are still standing in some areas of the modern city. Most notable is this archway, which is one of the original gates of the city wall. You can see that the walls were several feet thick. In fact, the upper window above the gate is actually incorporated into a private residence, that was built into the wall section. Apparently it is owned by a British man who walks through a medieval wall every day to enter and leave his home. How cool is that? These are the kinds of details that our local guide provided us. She had grown up in Medina Sidonia, and gave the tour in Spanish, but our FFSC guide Clemente translated for us. I really appreciated the insider information, which made the history come alive.

Another wonderful aspect of having a local tour guide was that she gave us private tours of areas that typically have limited access. She unlocked the door of the city's museum for us, and we were the only people in it that day. It is a very small, yet very interesting building that seeks to demonstrate what life was life in the 1800's in Medina Sidonia. The first room displayed agricultural equipment and tools-- some which were not that different from antique items on my parent's farm in America! There was also this school-room display, which my children enjoyed. 

The museum also demonstrated the contrast between the upper and lower classes in the 1800's. Medina Sidonia became an important ducal seat in 1440. Medina Sidonia was the next important town, when traveling inland from Cadiz. In fact, the Duke of Medina Sidonia was appointed Admiral of the Spanish Armada when the original Admiral died. Unfortunately, this proved disastrous since he was a nobleman, not trained in naval strategy. His inept decisions led to the defeat of the Spanish Armada by the English in 1587. Here we see a 19th century dining room with china and fine furniture. (Sophia called it a tea party!)

Meanwhile, those who were not upper class did not enjoy the same lavish lifestyle. They dined at smaller tables, and sat on chairs woven from rushes. Without fireplaces, their source of warmth was a small brazier of coals located under the table to warm those who sat around it. They slept on straw mattresses, which were too dangerous to be heated by any coals. Their kitchens obviously lacked electricity and running water, a concept that baffled my children. The small holes beneath the counter held small fires over which you could cook--a 19th century stove.

After exiting the museum, we went even further back in time, into the Roman foundations of the city. Again, our tour guide unlocked a museum for us, and inside we saw well-preserved Roman roads and Roman sewer systems. Here, Danny is sitting on a 1st Century Roman road. Beside him you can see scratches in a circular and diamond pattern. This was a game scratched into the pavement, that Roman children used to play with rocks or marbles. He thought it was pretty cool to be sitting next to a game that started so long ago!

We also walked through a somewhat extensive excavation of the Roman sewers. As the rest of the city was built upon the Roman buildings, these tunnels were left intact. Don't worry, the sewers were dry and had no smell at all! We could walk comfortably through the larger tunnels, but had to explore the smallest tunnel one at a time, because it tapered off into a tiny opening my kids called a 'rat-hole.' The architecture of anything Roman is always impressive in its details and precision, and these sewers were no exception.

After walking through so much history, we finally arrived at what many group members viewed as the highlight of the tour: visiting the Church of Santa Maria de la Victoria and, most importantly, the attached bakery. Medina Sidonia is the pastry capital of the Cadiz province. The local specialty is a shortbread roll called alfajor with almond and fig flavors. It is very rich and flavorful. The nuns also make assorted flavors of cookies. We enjoyed a shortbread cookie with a chocolate fudge topping--it reminded me of the Spanish version of a Baltimore Berger cookie! A package of 6 large cookies is only 3 Euros. When we explored the church, one of the nuns came to the reja (iron gate) to talk to us. They are cloistered, so do not leave the convent, but they are free to show themselves and talk to visitors, either at the church or the bakery. This sister was the oldest in the order: 90 years old. She joined when she was 15, and had spent 75 years at that same church building!

Just past the Iglesia de la Victoria is the main Plaza de Espana, and this is the town hall. The Plaza has several good restaurants surrounding it, as well as a bakery established in the 1800's. This is another good source of pastries if you are planning to bring some home. (We didn't). Just east of this Plaza is the main parking lot. So because the bus dropped us off near the Church of Mary Mayor, at the top of the hill, we sort of did the tour backward, walking DOWN hill through most of the city. Usually you would park in the parking area and have to walk up several steep areas to reach the main church. But again, the views are worth it! Medina Sidonia has a lot to offer to anyone who enjoys history, so I'm sure we will be visiting again!

Arcos, the city of Arches

In the mountains north and east of here, throughout Southern Spain, are numerous small villages. These white-washed quaint towns perched on cliffs and mountaintops are known as the Pueblos Blancos, or white villages. A well-known white village, just 40 minutes from Rota, is the town of Arcos.
 

Arcos de la Frontera is named for its arches, and for its location at the frontier of the war against the Moors. The arches were built throughout the city and  to support the town's 2 main churches, Santa Maria de la Asuncion and San Pedro. The 2 churches, both built in the 16th centuries, had such a strong feud that the Pope had to become involved and declare Santa Maria as the main church of the city.

 The oldest portion of Arcos is perched on a cliff at the top of the mountain.  The streets have remained unchanged since the Middle Ages, so they are extremely narrow.



 In some places, the children could literally reach out their hands and touch both walls!
Arcos is also famous for its running of the bulls, which occurs every year on Easter. There are only a few cities in Spain that still hold a running of the bulls, and Arcos is one of them. With its steep and narrow streets, this is quite an event!



If you hike up to the main plaza, which is flanked by the Church of Santa Maria and the Parador, you will reach a mirador (overlook point) from which you can see the steep cliff on which the city is built. You can look down at the Guadalete River, and out across the plain at the miles of farmland that surround the city. It is extremely windy up there, but the views are amazing!

 

The Church of Santa Maria was built in the 16th century, on the site of a former mosque (typical in this region that was run by the Moors and then overtaken by Christians). The tower was modeled off the bell tower--the Giralda-- in Seville. Unfortunately, the residents of Arcos ran out of funds before they could finish it. But the azulete tiles are still beautiful.     This church stands at the town's main plaza, which has the mirador at one end and the Parador at the other. A Parador is a state-owned hotel built in a historical site. You can spend the night (if you want to pay the high rates!) or enjoy a meal with reasonable prices and great views. There are more than 80 Paradors throughout Spain, and this one is worth a visit for the cliffside views and delicious food. Sidenote: while there is a parking area in the main square, I don't recommend using it! You have to drive the whole way through some NARROW streets that are literally the width of a car. There is a more convenient dirt parking area at the bottom of the city, from which you can walk up a steep flight of stairs into the newer part of town. There is also an underground parking garage at the edge of the newer town.

Another reason to visit Arcos is because of the confections made by a unique group of nuns. The comvento de las Mercedarias Descalez is a cloistered order of nuns who do not leave their convent or receive visitors. However, to sell their delicious cookies they have a rotating screened window, through which you can place an order. You put your money on the counter, and it rotates around with a box of cookies. You can only buy them by the box, and the cost is 5 Euro, but they are delicious. We ordered chocolate, of course, but there are other traditional choices like almond and sugar. The convent is on Calle Escribanos, a major street between the 2 main city churches, so a walking tour will lead you past it.

One final point of interest in Arcos was the tiny museum called Belen. This is a single large room covered with miniature dioramas of the events surrounding Jesus's birth. There is a scene with shepherds in the fields, the kings with their camels, Mary and Joseph arriving in Bethlehem, and the birth in the stable. Each scene is filled with amusing figures and details that children will love. The lights are programmed to change every few minutes to show each scene in sunset, night, and morning. The visit is FREE, but a donation is encouraged to upkeep the maintenance. It is located near the convent, on the way to San Pedro church.
Arcos is the town that hosts a living Nativity every year before Christmas. Last year's was cancelled due to rain, but the entire town is transformed into a scene from ancient Bethlehem, and the streets are filled with animals and people in costume. I hope we are able to attend next year!


As you can tell, Arcos is a delightful town, that is certainly worth a return visit. It is a great place to take visitors, so they can experience one of the pueblos blancos without traveling all day to get there. In winter it would be rather cold and windy, and in late summer it can get quite hot, but in between you will enjoy narrow streets, ancient arches, sun and shade, and flowers blooming against stark white walls. This is Andalusia. :-)

Cadiz- a walk through history

The city of Cadiz is about 3,000 years old, and during that time has been a settlement of the Phonecians, the Romans, the Visigoths, Moors, and the Spanish. It is the longest continuously-inhabited city in Europe. Since we live across the Bay of Cadiz, and can see the city from almost all of the local beaches, it is surprising that we have only visited a few times. We previously spent an afternoon exploring Cadiz's fort and beaches, which you can read about here. We recently returned to immerse ourselves in the city's history.

There are several ways to get to Cadiz from Rota. You can take a ferry from Rota or Puerto, which only takes half an hour and costs about 2 Euro per person. We haven't tried that yet. So far, we haven't had much trouble finding parking. This church is located at the Plaza San Antonio, near the center of the city, which has a large underground parking garage beneath it. Yes, a minivan does fit in underground parking, it's just a little tight! :-)







Our first stop was the Plaza de Mina, just a few blocks east of the Plaza San Antonio. This beautiful Plaza was last renovated in the 1800's, and many of the houses were occupied by Cadiz's wealthiest citizens during the city's "Golden Age." It is also the location of the history museum, the Museo de Cadiz, located at 6 Plaza de Mina. Admission is usually 2.50 Euro, but is FREE to EU citizens, or anyone with an EU driver's license.






The museum was excellent, very exciting to my history-buff husband, interesting to me, and even cool to our children. It gave us a great insight and perspective into the 3,000 year long history of this city. First: giant statue of Hercules. According to legend, Hercules founded the city of Gadira (Greek name of Cadiz) approximately 80 years after the Trojan War, or around 1104 B.C. He supposedly accomplished his 10th feat, the slaying of the Geryon, in the Bay of Cadiz. In fact, a Phonecian temple dedicated to the god Melqart is associated with Hercules by the Greeks, and the ruined columns of that temple, which were still standing in the 1st Century, are thought to be the source of the myth of the Pillars of Hercules. Since the Spanish crest that is still used on the flag contains the image of the Pillars of Hercules, he is a relevant national cultural figure.
I have always liked Greek mythology, but I haven't been to too many cities founded by people from the myths!



To the Phoenicians, the city was called Gadir. The museum is organized chronologically, with the city's name on banners throughout. It was interesting to watch the name change over time as different civilizations settled there. Most of the remnants of the Phoenicians are funerary, but the grave sites are pretty cool (my kids loved the skeleton!) and the details on the sarcophagi are very impressive.

After the Phoenicians, the Romans settled the city and called it Gades. It became a thriving naval port, and a site for exporting olive oil and wine. Many of the statues and artifacts from the Roman city of Baelo Claudia are housed here. We formerly visited the actual site of Baelo Claudia, so it was very interesting to see the artifacts and tools and statues that had been recovered.
Roman control lasted from about 500 B.C. - 500 A.D. You can still see the ruins of the Roman theater next to the Cathedral in Cadiz, though the site is currently under construction.
The upstairs of the museum has a small collection of some wonderful paintings and religious artwork, many of them huge and impressive. The kids actually enjoyed several of them, for their size and details, so I recommend it to anyone.






After the Romans, the Visigoths, Moors, and finally the Spanish inhabited the city. The current name Cadiz is derived from the Arabic name, Qadis. During Spain's Golden Age, Cadiz was an important port. Columbus set sail from Cadiz for his 2nd and 4th voyages. It was also the harbor for the Spanish Armada, and in 1587 Sir Francis Drake led a surprise attack that destroyed about 30 Spanish ships. This delayed the sailing of the Armada for over a year, and influenced their eventual defeat. In the 18th century, when the Guadalquivir river become silted and less traversal, all the New World trade that was flowing through Seville was transferred to Cadiz. This was the city's golden age, and if you wander through some of the barios (neighborhoods) the houses were often constructed during that period.

 When Napoleon Bonaparte placed his brother on the Spanish throne, Cadiz was one of the few cities to withstand his rule during the "Peninsula War." It was in Cadiz that the Constitution of 1812 was passed. The monument to the Constitution of 1812 is on the Eastern side of the city, easy walking distance from the museum, and is a very impressive memorial with a perpetual flame, and an empty chair surrounded by allegorical figures. Because Cadiz upheld the constitution, that meant that for a brief period Cadiz was the capital of Spain. When the constitution was to be renewed in 1820, the Gaditanos (people of Cadiz) revolted to secured its renewal, and their revolt spread across the country, becoming the Spanish Civil War.

With such an impressive history, Cadiz is an interesting town worth several visits. The great food, beautiful beaches, quiet neighborhoods, and huge cathedral are all just added benefits. I think we will be back again soon for more visits!