Feria: How the Spanish celebrate Spring

Right after Easter, cities throughout the south of Spain (Andalusia) host a week-long celebration called 'Feria,' which is often translated as "Spring Fair." Any good Spanish celebration involves drinking and music, and Feria is the ultimate festival: carnival rides, food, music, dancing, all-night drinking, horse shows, and fancy dresses. What's not to love?! We have spent the last month attending Feria events on base, in Rota, and in Jerez. For the Spanish, Feria is the most wonderful time of the year. The first Feria is traditionally in Seville, the regional capital, in April. After that, each city has their own week-long celebration. So Feria season actually stretches from April until October. If you are ever in Spain during that time, you must attend a Feria! It is like an explosion of Spanish culture.






The tradition of Feria began in 1847, in Seville. It was originally a livestock and agricultural event. But in typical Spanish tradition, they turned business into a party, and it quickly became a popular annual event that has continued every year since. While Feria is no longer an agricultural fair, horses still play an important role in the celebrations. The Andalusian horses that are bred in this region are famous for their graceful form and elaborate training. In Seville, horse-drawn carriages still bring the wealthy to the Feria grounds. In Jerez (the center of the breeding and training activities) it is called the Feria de Caballos, and presents horse shows and carriage rides for Feria attendees. On base, we were given a demonstration of the Andalusian horses. Their routines are set to Flamenco music, and they are trained to side-step, prance, spin, and basically DANCE to the music. It is quite beautiful and stunning.

 Music is a huge part of the Feria celebration. In Southern Spain, there is a unique form of flamenco music that is called "Sevillanas," because it was created by the people of Seville. The Sevillanas can be danced to any flamenco song, but it is always a 4-part dance, which is supposed to represent 4 stages of a romantic relationship--meeting, getting acquainted, falling in love, and fulfillment. Each part is 1 minute long, and contains its own set formula of steps and movements. Spanish children begin to learn Sevillanas as soon as they can walk. Our children learned it in their preschool class at the CDC (Child Development Center) on base. The CDC then hosted a Feria Day, where each classroom dressed up and danced with their teachers. They really enjoyed it!

Feria attire: The Spanish love to dress up for Feria, particularly the women. The bright, ruffled dresses are the traditional dress, not only for Flamenco dancing, but for any Feria event. Most dresses feature polka dots and bright colors, although there are more 'modern' designs with stripes or other patterns. But... mostly polka dots. Spanish women have their dresses tailored each year so that they are perfectly form-fitting. Or they buy a new dress each year, depending on budget. New dresses cost from 100-400 Euro, but you can get them used at a discounted rate. The traditional attire for men is related to the 'cowboy' garb of the 1800's: dark pants, sometimes with spurs, a vest, a white shirt, and a flat, black, wide-brimmed hat. (Men in general do not wear this, only those performing at feria. In contrast, ALL women dress up, even those not performing.) Women take great care to coordinate their accessories, which include a shawl, a flower in the hair, sometimes a large comb in the hair, and of course the shoes. It is also common to see siblings or families with coordinated dresses:

During the Spanish Civil War, Feria was supposed to be cancelled, but the Sevillians held it anyway, in defiance. During the 1920's it evolved into the gaudy, carnival atmosphere that you still find today.  Each city has their own Feria ground, which is a dirt area that is used primarily during this 1 week of the year. The entrance to the Feria is constructed anew each year, and is an elaborate gate, modeled off the entrance to the Feria in Seville. Over the Feria grounds, hundreds of lights hang in decorative arches. At night, they are lit up in many colors, adding to the festive atmosphere. Below is the main entrance to the Feria grounds in Rota.

<------  And this is the main entrance to the Feria grounds in Jerez. Because Jerez is a larger city, their Feria grounds are much larger than Rota's. They have many more carnival rides, and more activity. But the basic layout and celebration is the same in any city.








Once you enter the Feria grounds, the area is lined with 'casetas,' which in some cities are temporary tents, and in others are permanent buildings. The casetas are another product of the original agricultural fair. Tents were thrown up to provide shade for business transactions, and allow farmers to get a drink or something to eat. Now, each caseta is a complete restaurant, with a kitchen, bar, and dance floor. Each caseta is owned and operated by a different family, fraternity, or brotherhood, and the semi-private parties there continue overnight into the morning.

Once you pass the dirt Feria grounds, there is another part of the Feria celebration that is basically a carnival. Like American carnivals, there are numerous rides like Ferris wheels, carousels, and the bumper cars (pictured here). Each ride has its own ticket stand, so there are few lines. The rides are surprisingly long, lasting up to 5 minutes. But they should be, since each ride is 3 Euro, per person! Except on Thursday, which is Family Day at most Ferias, and the rides are half price.





There are also typical carnival games and food. Spanish fair food consists of hamburgers and chicken nuggets, falafel sandwiches, cotton candy, ice cream, and lots of donut stands. There are also curious stands of fresh coconut and nuts, with streams of cold water running over them.  The Rota Feria has a small section, one street, of these stands.






The Jerez Feria is much larger, taking up several city blocks. So the restaurants and eating choices are much larger, with areas to sit down at tables under tents outside. There are carnival games like shooting balloons, ring toss at rubber ducks, etc. You can win prizes like stuffed animals, large balloons... or completely inappropriate things like pillows with sexual organs printed on them.






Finally, Jerez's Feria has a section that is not present in Rota's Feria: a gypsy market that extends through several streets. They sell all kinds of Feria dresses and accessories, such as these roses for the hair. But you can also find wood carvings, jewelry, candy, and interesting gift ideas. Feria is a wonderful event, for the whole family to enjoy. There are plenty of babies in strollers and young children there to enjoy the rides, as well as groups of teens hanging out together, and parents dancing and singing into the wee hours of the morning. Feria season has been lots of fun, and we look forward to going again next year!